I have a 67 chevelle with the M21 4 speed transmission. I keep having trouble with my shifter and was wandering if anybody has used the Hurst conversion kit to replace the muncie shifter? I saw this in the Ground Up catalog. My shifter keeps hanging up when going from 3rd back down to second it will stick in 3rd and stay there.
Thanks,
Gary

Gary,
Does it look like this one? Is the trans out of the car or on the bench? It makes a huge difference.


http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll150/ragdollbailey714/68%20Restoration%20Pics/102_3345-1.jpg

I have the conversion kit from Ground Up and love it. Simple to install with trans out of car and shifts smoothly.

Kevin

I adapted a Muncie bench seat handle to my Hurst Shifter in the same manner as shown above. I don't think any one would ever know without looking under the car. Looks stock but works like a Hurst.

He has a 67, TOTALLY different shifter handle. The 67-earlier shifters were the T-handle version and came up on the left side of the tranny tunnel, not the center.
It seems as though someone is making a replica of the T-handles designed to bolt directly to a Hurst shifter similar the the 68-72 handles. :thumbsup:

My shifter looks nothing like that one, the shifter in my car is the original muncie shifter with the Tee handle. And just to help clarify my shifting problem I can shift through the gears just fine but when I'm in 3rd and want to got to 2nd I have to go to neautral first and then 2nd or it hangs up and will not come out of 3rd.
Thanks,
Gary

Gary,
I am using an adapter plate which allows me to bolt an original 67 stick to my Hurst shifter. I had this one made up myself but it is almost identical to the one that Ausley's sell for $25.
The shifter sits a little higher in the tunnel but it works great.
marshall
knightdale nc

The '67 handle, although completely different, bolts down with two bolts like the later ones. My '69 handle has bolt holes 1.25" C-C. I'm pretty sure I've seen adapters listed for the older handles as well.

He has a 67, TOTALLY different shifter handle. The 67-earlier shifters were the T-handle version and came up on the left side of the tranny tunnel, not the center.
It seems as though someone is making a replica of the T-handles designed to bolt directly to a Hurst shifter similar the the 68-72 handles. :thumbsup:

Tom, as usual, is correct. :yes:

In my 67, I have a hurst shifter, but found a stock looking Muncie handle with a white ball that looks factory. The handle I bought is specific for bench seat cars & has the 9/16" threads like the originals. It looks stock & has a "dummy" reverse lock out T-handle. The bottom has been fabbed with the two hole design to bolt directly to the hurst shiifter. No adapter is needed.

I got it from Show Cars in Minnesota. Here is a photo.

Tom, as usual, is correct. :yes:

In my 67, I have a hurst shifter, but found a stock looking Muncie handle with a white ball that looks factory. The handle I bought is specific for bench seat cars & has the 9/16" threads like the originals. It looks stock & has a "dummy" reverse lock out T-handle. The bottom has been fabbed with the two hole design to bolt directly to the hurst shiifter. No adapter is needed.

I got it from Show Cars in Minnesota. Here is a photo.

I THOUGHT I had seen the replica T-handles advertised for Hurst shifers!!!!! In my opinion, this is the way to go! :thumbsup:

Notice in the pic by Pete, the sharp bend forward just above where the handle bolts to the Hurst shifter body. This is because the handle mount on the Hurst mechanism sits farther back than the factory Muncie handle mount. On my 66 4 sp with console, I found the Hurst handle mount also was too far to the left. Both of these differences in position require correction with the adapter. I ended up fabbing a piece of 1" angle iron to make a mount for my Muncie handle. My adapter moved the handle forward about 1" and 3/4" to the right. It also mounted the bottom of the Muncie shifter about midway between the two mounting holes on the Hurst mechanism.

I would recommend a lot of test fitting for the adapter after installing everything (trans, handle, boot, console etc.) so that the handle is centered in the boot and does not hit anything when power shifting. Ideally, the top boot should not buckle at any shifter position. BTW, I fabbed one of those T adapters and the handle sat way too high for the lower boot to fit so forget that.

My shifter looks nothing like that one, the shifter in my car is the original muncie shifter with the Tee handle. And just to help clarify my shifting problem I can shift through the gears just fine but when I'm in 3rd and want to got to 2nd I have to go to neautral first and then 2nd or it hangs up and will not come out of 3rd.
Thanks,
Gary

Could be the shifter adjusment or the shifter might need to be rebuilt. I think there are places that rebuilf the stock muncie shifter. For that matter you can do the job yourself with parts that are available.

Notice in the pic by Pete, the sharp bend forward just above where the handle bolts to the Hurst shifter body. This is because the handle mount on the Hurst mechanism sits farther back than the factory Muncie handle mount. On my 66 4 sp with console, I found the Hurst handle mount also was too far to the left. Both of these differences in position require correction with the adapter. I ended up fabbing a piece of 1" angle iron to make a mount for my Muncie handle. My adapter moved the handle forward about 1" and 3/4" to the right. It also mounted the bottom of the Muncie shifter about midway between the two mounting holes on the Hurst mechanism.

I would recommend a lot of test fitting for the adapter after installing everything (trans, handle, boot, console etc.) so that the handle is centered in the boot and does not hit anything when power shifting. Ideally, the top boot should not buckle at any shifter position. BTW, I fabbed one of those T adapters and the handle sat way too high for the lower boot to fit so forget that.

Wayne,
That looks GREAT! :thumbsup:

i had the same problem on my 69. it would jam in 3rd if i powershifted, shifted too fast, did not follow the shift gate EXACTLY (i.e. go out of second stright up, move across and then go straight in to 3rd). i would have to go under the car, unhook the arms, release the tranny in to N and then reconnect everything.

the hurst bolted right in. since it is all new, it is very solid. the annoying rattle is gone. it shifts perfectly. it is a little stiff even after some greasing but i guess it will smooth out with time.

i was expecting shorter throws though.