I got a set of centerline autodrags off CL and happy with the fit and condition. the problem is someone tried to polish them, I really wanted the original satin finish.

I have a pressure feed sand blaster and was thinking about using alum oxide to sand blast them.

I don't know of any other way to get them back to satin finish, sand paper would just make them smooth (I'm guessing) or if I use a rougher paper, say 100 grit, that might work.

any ideas?, thanks KarlJay.

Pour a bunch of acid on it and let it corrode? That might be a little different answer than you're looking for though.

Careful with aluminum and acid


100 grit is too aggressive, Id start with something way way finer.


Look up Derek at DMP polish, he will know. Hes around the corner here and is a polishing wiz.

http://www.dmpolish.com/tips.htm
Tell him Ron says he smells like a can of old bananas :D

also www.tarheelparts.com can give you some firsthand tips they are pros in the biz.

Etching mag wheel cleaner ( I use eagle brand ) will make them satin, but I they won't look exactly like new ones, I think they have a brushed finish.

Most of the acids just make it look milky, I have done that and did not like it! Start with an SOS pad or light steel wool and then go heavier if you need to, this works well. They will give the brushed/machine look and still lets it have the satin sheen. It will also even out the finish that usually blotchy from someone trying to polish them. I have done this by hand with it sitting on a surface, but, if you can, put the wheel on something you can turn the wheel on while scuffing it, like bolted on to the front of the car and spinning it. You can hold your scuffing material in one place and turn the wheel so it will be even and look like a machine did it. It is easier if there is a tire on the wheel because the extra weight helps to keep the wheel spinning and also gives you something to grab to keep it spinning easier.

Start with an SOS pad or light steel wool and then go heavier if you need to, this works well. They will give the brushed/machine look and still lets it have the satin sheen... if you can, put the wheel on something you can turn the wheel on while scuffing it, like bolted on to the front of the car and spinning it. You can hold your scuffing material in one place and turn the wheel so it will be even and look like a machine did it. It is easier if there is a tire on the wheel because the extra weight helps to keep the wheel spinning and also gives you something to grab to keep it spinning easier.


I actually place my car on jackstands and removed both rear wheels... I then bolted on the wheel I wanted to work on (it didn't have a tire on it, and so the valve stem was also removed), and then started the car and put it in "drive"... Then I just held the sandpaper, etc in place, and let the engine do the work...

Might be a little difficult around the rivets (and valve stem)...

scotchbrites work well too. maroon is coarse and grey is finer

Grey sctochbrite, I've done it on my choppers on chrome and polished alum, dont leave sand scratches like the red.. Chemicals Oxidize and make it chalky and blotchy looking.

Etching mag wheel cleaner ( I use eagle brand ) will make them satin, but I they won't look exactly like new ones, I think they have a brushed finish. :yes: Back in 1991 I had a new set of Weld Pro Stars (2 weeks old :mad:) and not knowing any better I bought some mag wheel cleaner. Took the polish right off and they never looked the same after that.