I am having it sand blasted, but I do NOT want it powder coated.

From what I've read in searching is that if you use the "POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint", you still have to primer on top of that with either their "SELF-ETCH PRIMER" or their "TIE COAT PRIMER" before you paint a urethane coat on top. They even have a special now for getting the Rust preventative paint together with thier "Chassiscoat black"... no primer per say?!

I don't want to (or plan to) do any kind of filler on the frame.

The sand blasting shop has offered to primer the frame for me in their shop. Which is a much better deal than doing it in my cold cold garage. I just have to specify the primer. I can paint it later, and I do all of the mock up work. I'm doing a lot of custom stuff with the build.

So if I'm sand blasting the rust off, wouldn't I just need the self-etching primer? will that lock out moisture if I will not paint it for a few months?

I'd use epoxy primer. That will lock out moisture for a long time. I don't see where you'd need self-etching primer vs regular primer on a sandblasted frame ever.

So I just tell them to use "epoxy primer" and they'll know what to do? They wont ask me which kind or anything? I'm a paint moron. :D

I like POR. It's fine for hidden away places. But I wouldn't use it as a topcoat. It just doesn't have a nice finish. Epoxy the frame and topcoat it with plain ole stain black paint.

As much as we drive these cars, they're going to outlast us. No sense in tying up a bunch of $ in it.

why not powdercoat? touchup or modding down the line and dont want to grind it off?

just curious.

So I just tell them to use "epoxy primer" and they'll know what to do? They wont ask me which kind or anything? I'm a paint moron. :D
They SHOULD know what to get and do. I'd tell them to use black or close to it as possible epoxy primer but stress it must be EPOXY primer. It's more expensive than other primers. If they can't or won't I'd suggest doing it yourself with SPI epoxy primer. Most primers aren't moisture proof but epoxy is and is tough.

why not powdercoat? touchup or modding down the line and dont want to grind it off?

just curious.


The touchup from nicks/scratches.
The turbo's will need to be supported by the frame, custom cross member for the transmission. That and the local powder coater charged me out the wazooo for the last job I brought him. Next nearest one is really far away.

Thanks guys! I'll see what they have to say about the epoxy primer Von and get back to you if they get fussy. ;)

The touchup from nicks/scratches.
The turbo's will need to be supported by the frame, custom cross member for the transmission. That and the local powder coater charged me out the wazooo for the last job I brought him. Next nearest one is really far away.

Thanks guys! I'll see what they have to say about the epoxy primer Von and get back to you if they get fussy. ;)


Gotcha.

One hell of a beast you have planned. Your nuts. :thumbsup::beers:

We are at about the same point in our builds now but I will be NA 496 Mike Lewis BB up front.

Pick up my chassis and new moser 12 bolt next weekend from Hot Rods to Hell (lil hint on where I am going with this build) ;)

The last frame I did was the '66 wagon.
Had it sandblasted locally and we epoxy primered it then three coats of chassis black. Did all the control arms, inner fenders, and rear housing at the same time.
The '67 Elky frame I had powdercoated.
I personally like the prime/paint results better. :yes:

Thanks Bill. What front control arms are those?

Check in on my Rear End post in the performance section if you have some time. :)

In 1989 when I got my frame,it was painted with primer and several coats of martin senour chassis black.It held up remarkably well,even with the bare frame sitting outside for the last two years.I would bet an epoxy primer followed by a high quality paint will far outlast that.

Thanks Bill. What front control arms are those?
Marc's SC&C Stage II plus kit. Removed and sold shortly after that pic was taken. I returned that car back to stock suspension after all that ball joint drama.

Check in on my Rear End post in the performance section if you have some time. :)

I did see your rearend ummm....post.
Although I've NEVER had any issues with the Moser internal-GM housing 12 bolt under my '70, at the power level you plan to attain, I would suggest any of the aftermarket Ford 9" setups. The bigger the ring gear diameter, the better IMO.