Well after concluding that my poor timing was due to a slipped harmonic balancer I was curious if there was a way to fix it and set it back up to normal. To install the balancer I set it on its tooth, put a block of wood in front of it, and started pounding on it with a hammer to get it back in... Apparently that isnt a good idea. So all in all how should I go about resetting it so I can have accurate timing readings?

Buy, rent or borrow a balancer installation tool. (one source) Use to install your NEW balancer, the one you pounded on is DONE.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400105+303542+115&autoview=sku

Buy, rent or borrow a balancer installation tool. (one source) Use to install your NEW balancer, the one you pounded on is DONE.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400105+303542+115&autoview=sku

I bought some sort of kit from auto zone that I used to remove the dampener. Would I have been able to use it to put it back on? Yes I have a crank bolt.


That sucks what would a balancer go for? Also why did it ruin it? It went on straight...

You can buy a new dampener from Chevrolet fairly inexpensively.... they will sell you the one that goes with the engine so it would be the right part. If the outer ring moves, it needs to be replaced.... it will just move again even if you had the right equipment to 'correct' the movement. Hammering the dampener on is the 'NOT RECOMMENDED' way of installing it. The removal tool removes... an installing tool does the other part.

You can buy a new dampener from Chevrolet fairly inexpensively.... they will sell you the one that goes with the engine so it would be the right part. If the outer ring moves, it needs to be replaced.... it will just move again even if you had the right equipment to 'correct' the movement. Hammering the dampener on is the 'NOT RECOMMENDED' way of installing it. The removal tool removes... an installing tool does the other part.

Ah I see. Yeah that makes sense. I was just wondering if you could convert the removal parts into a putting it back on parts.

If you've hammered on it, it's trash, throw it away and buy a new one. Install the new one with the proper tool, which is basically a piece of threaded rod, a washer and a nut. They need to be installed and removed by pushing or pulling on the hub, not on the outer ring.

Tom

If you've hammered on it, it's trash, throw it away and buy a new one. Install the new one with the proper tool, which is basically a piece of threaded rod, a washer and a nut. They need to be installed and removed by pushing or pulling on the hub, not on the outer ring.

Tom

Alright I understand the concept. I will get a new balancer asap :thumbsup:

There are places that rebuild them, if you want to keep your original - damper dudes; damper doctor, etc. Google 'em.

Alex what lead you to believe the damper has slipped? Are you sure that when you installed the cam that you had the timing marks lined up correctly.....While not optimal or even remotely recommended I have seen dampers reinstalled with a block of wood and they survived.

Alex what lead you to believe the damper has slipped? Are you sure that when you installed the cam that you had the timing marks lined up correctly.....While not optimal or even remotely recommended I have seen dampers reinstalled with a block of wood and they survived.

I had it lined up as close as it was going to line up. It was perfect. One tooth more or less made it way off. Heres a picture, its hard to tell but you can see its even.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p162/numtwo/Chevelle/picture116.jpg


Also, I was reading 55-60* at 2000 rpm with glowing headers. As I advanced the timing more the headers went away, the car ran better, but still had some backfire. Right now the canister is touching the intake so I need to move it a tooth or move the plugs over and retard for more room.

I reinstalled it with a block of wood too. I just dont see how anything could have moved if it was on the tooth off the crankshaft :confused:

OK, I'm confused, you've been discussing a balancer and post a photo of the timing chain and gears? Anyway, I'm not convinced your balancer is your problem. I've installed several balancers with hammer and wood back in the old days when there was no money for special tools. Never had a problem with any of them. Re-install the balancer, find true TDC with the #1 piston, and check the alignment of the balancer with your timing tab.

In your photo you do realize your on number 6 compression and not number 1 correct?....To be on number one compression the dot on your upper pulley will be at 12 o'clock with the crank being the same as your photo 12 o'clock. In your other post you mention a oil leak....Now I could see how installing the damper with a block of wood could lead to a rear main leak. As mentioned previously its not the best method or recommended but I have personally done it myself in my youth......Back then either things were a whole lot simpler or I had that magic horseshoe up my A$$.

In your photo you do realize your on number 6 compression and not number 1 correct?....To be on number one compression the dot on your upper pulley will be at 12 o'clock with the crank being the same as your photo 12 o'clock. In your other post you mention a oil leak....Now I could see how installing the damper with a block of wood could lead to a rear main leak. As mentioned previously its not the best method or recommended but I have personally done it myself in my youth......Back then either things were a whole lot simpler or I had that magic horseshoe up my A$$.

No that is the number one tdc... I wouldnt think it would start at all let alone run for 20 minutes with minor problems.

I ran it today at idle and it ran alright, backed it out of the garage and put it back in. No real problems. Did sound strange, not as loud as it did before and didnt have a lopey idle at all unlike the SMALLER cam that was in it before. Anyway its become a annoying timing issue. I noticed that I had about an inch left before I would rub the intake and I went ahead and started advancing it. After some movement the motor stalled out and died. I tried to start it up but the starter was hmmm lagging and really slow even though the battery was fine. It was also shooting up gas vapor out of the carb. I set back the timing a little bit and it started up but smoked out the tail pipes a bit... At least now after the cam break in I can idle it...

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198642&highlight=timing+chain+dots

Alright I read that and my dot does align with the dot on the crankshaft. I didnt use the triangle and it would be in that position otherwise...

Alex people put them dot to dot to assist in installing the gears without a straight edge.......at the location you can drop the distributor in on number 6....or rotate the engine to put both dots at 12 o'clock and drop the distributor in on number 1.....If you installed your distributor on number 1 with it dot to to your 180 degree's off on your distributor. If you run out and change your distributor it will run normal if nothing has made contact.
(Read the entire post linked above)


Originally Posted by 2muchfun View Post
Also dont forget when the dots are lined up like that you are firing on #6 not #1.You need to rotate the motor 180*so the top gears(cam) Dot is at the 12 oclock position and the lower is at 12 also then you are at topdead center for #1.

I would check all the basic stuff until you are sure it is right. You seem to have the cam and timing gears set up ok.

Verify when no 1 cyl is at tdc on the firing stroke, ie, both valves are closed. Set the dist up pointing to no1 plug wire. That should get it to start. Mark the No 1 tdc position on the crank. One way is to note the keyway position, since you can see this with the timing cover in place. Then mark it on the damper and timing cover, if you dont have a timing tab. On my 350 there is one mark on the damper and the degree marks are on the timing tab or pointer. It bolted on separately.

I absolutely would not try setting the timing without a light.

If the outer ring on the damper has slipped, trash it. It will come off and take out stuff like the radiator. Been there, done that, got the t shirt.

Buy a balancer installer tool. It has a stud that threads into the crank nose, with a threaded extension that goes through the damper. Usually has several threaded studs for different cranks. A big washer or roller bearing thrust washer goes against the damper, and a you tighten a nut to push the damper on.

I just ordered one from Sears because I lost the roller bearing thrust washer for mine.

My 350 was the hardest damper I ever installed. I use anti seize on the crank nose also.

I would never, ever, hammer one on, although I understand that was the only way for 283 engines.

Alex people put them dot to dot to assist in installing the gears without a straight edge.......at the location you can drop the distributor in on number 6....or rotate the engine to put both dots at 12 o'clock and drop the distributor in on number 1.....If you installed your distributor on number 1 with it dot to to your 180 degree's off on your distributor. If you run out and change your distributor it will run normal if nothing has made contact.
(Read the entire post linked above)


Originally Posted by 2muchfun View Post
Also dont forget when the dots are lined up like that you are firing on #6 not #1.You need to rotate the motor 180*so the top gears(cam) Dot is at the 12 oclock position and the lower is at 12 also then you are at topdead center for #1.

But if it is off 180* wouldnt it never fire anyway?? Also I dont know if I mentioned it or not but the motor did not sound very rough at all. Its sounded rougher with the smaller cam that was in it before... Does that have anything to do with the 180* swap?

I would check all the basic stuff until you are sure it is right. You seem to have the cam and timing gears set up ok.

Verify when no 1 cyl is at tdc on the firing stroke, ie, both valves are closed. Set the dist up pointing to no1 plug wire. That should get it to start. Mark the No 1 tdc position on the crank. One way is to note the keyway position, since you can see this with the timing cover in place. Then mark it on the damper and timing cover, if you dont have a timing tab. On my 350 there is one mark on the damper and the degree marks are on the timing tab or pointer. It bolted on separately.

I absolutely would not try setting the timing without a light.

If the outer ring on the damper has slipped, trash it. It will come off and take out stuff like the radiator. Been there, done that, got the t shirt.

Buy a balancer installer tool. It has a stud that threads into the crank nose, with a threaded extension that goes through the damper. Usually has several threaded studs for different cranks. A big washer or roller bearing thrust washer goes against the damper, and a you tighten a nut to push the damper on.

I just ordered one from Sears because I lost the roller bearing thrust washer for mine.

My 350 was the hardest damper I ever installed. I use anti seize on the crank nose also.

I would never, ever, hammer one on, although I understand that was the only way for 283 engines.

I will verify the number one cylinder again and align things.

Also I will buy a damper install tool kit. Sounds like it would make it easier than hammering as well. :thumbsup:

Unless you are going to be doing a lot of balancers, you can rent the puller and instal tool at most of the discount auto parts chains for very little money.

You will need the installation tool every time you change the cam, because you need to pull the timing cover. You might as well get one, they are only like $35 or so.

Do not try pushing the damper on with the crank bolt or even a longer bolt of the same size, it risks pulling the threads out of the crank. The threads will withstand the pull of installation with the tool because the bolt or stud from the tool is fully threaded into the crank nose and not being turned when you install the damper. There are other threads and a nut on the tool for that.

This may be old news but I thought I would ad it here. There just is not another good way to remove and install these. Same goes for PS pump pulley removal and install tools.
Some things work country boy and some do not. This one does not.