Since my stock 283 in my 67 Malibu is leaking at the rear main seal, and at 110k miles likely needs another timing set......I plan to pull it soon and do a rebuild. BTW, it runs great, and only leaks, rather than uses oil.

What are your thoughts on a modern rebuild/upgrade to the engine?

Is going to the expense of full roller valve train worth it?

My plans would be to always keep my stock block and heads, but probably go to an Ededbrock intake manifold and carb.

Now....if I can just sort out the overdrive electrical system.....

BTW, I am the original owner, and do have the build sheet and ProtectoPlate.

thanks for any serious concepts and ideas

I'd spend the rebuild maney on a GM crate 350, base on is around 260 hp and do the adds you suggested. Save the 283 for if you ever sell the car. It'll be more fun to drive and no one will notice the difference.

thanks Dave....I have seriously considered a new motor, but decided to keep my 283 because -
1. You just don't see very many original 283s.
2. I have the rare combo of 283, 3 speed stick, and overdrive, and perhaps a healthy 350 torque would break my overdrive.
3. With six cars in a four car garage, I just don't have a great place to store another motor.
4. And, after owning the car for 40+ years, my plans are to keep her.
5. I drive my Malibu fewer than 2,000 miles a year, and am happy with current performance.
6. If I feel a need for speed, I take the car cover off my C5 Corvette, and hit the road!

Kind of depends on how much you want to spend, and what you want to do with your "survivor".

IMO the roller valve train makes zero sense unless you want some "gee whiz" factor. Same for the aftermarket manifold and carb, unless your originals are unserviceable.

I have a '65 El Camino w/327 sitting in a garage in Fresno waiting for me to have time to "restore" it. I've owned it for 42 years. The idea of substantially modifying the engine leaves me cold. When I do rebuild it, I plan to have the block, heads, crankshaft, rods, manifolds, etc. blueprinted; and build it as a ultra-smooth (as reasonably possible) low compression engine. Thats going to cost a whole bunch more than a stock rebuild, but I can afford it, and its what I want to do. I'll even keep the 4GC, but probably get one of Dave's small block HEI distributor conversions.

If I was interested in hotrodding around the local streets, I'd get a big inch small block and remove the original engine and store it away. But then it starts...more power need upgrade driveline, need upgrade suspension, frame, etc.etc. Got other things to do and spend on. If I really needed or wanted some speed and acceleration kicks, I'd get a crotch rocket and really get some thrills...

My $0.02

Since your engine only has 110k it is not likely to be badly worn, it would be a great candidate for rebuilding. In many ways you will be "refreshing" the engine bearings and rings etc. Of course when you disassemble it you may find some damage that requires more serious attention; like any sort of ridge near the top of the cylinder bores.

Believe it or not, on a stock 283 the factory intake is a real good choice. Unless you want the flash of an aluminum intake, virtually all the Edelbrock intakes are designed with a runner volume more suited for a larger engine (or a hot rod 283). If you want to upgrade from a 2 barrel carb to a 4 barrel carb then the factory iron Quadra Jet intake would be a really good choice. I have a '67 Q-jet intake with the filler tube and carb if it interests you.

The roller valvetrain will do next to nothing for the maybe 2,000 miles a year you are driving the car. Upgrading the rocker arms to roller tips is worthy because the cost is so reasonable.

A little about the cylinder heads on your car: intake ports are 137 cc, valves are 1.72" intake and 1.50" exhaust. Although slugs on any hot rod engine, these cylinder heads are the best size for a stock non-hot rod 283.

Don't go crazy on hi-tech with the engine rebuild, Silvolite pistons, good rings and bearings, surface the block and deck for using a steel shim head gasket. Your engine will likely have the pistons ~ .025" down the hole, so a thin head gasket, maybe a Fel-Pro 1094 will help keep a decent piston to cylinder head quench distance. If you replace the pistons with a pin height that makes for a true zero deck height, then you can use a composition head gasket.

Thomas

i would put a 3.25 stroke crank in it and go the 307 route. use the stock heads and go 1.94 1.55 with a good valve job and bowl work. q jet and gm manifold. 256- 260 adv on 110 lsa hyd. flat tappet. this thing would run great and have excellent low end torque with exceptional milage

Since my stock 283 in my 67 Malibu is leaking at the rear main seal, and at 110k miles likely needs another timing set......I plan to pull it soon and do a rebuild. BTW, it runs great, and only leaks, rather than uses oil.

What are your thoughts on a modern rebuild/upgrade to the engine?

Is going to the expense of full roller valve train worth it?

My plans would be to always keep my stock block and heads, but probably go to an Ededbrock intake manifold and carb.

Now....if I can just sort out the overdrive electrical system.....

BTW, I am the original owner, and do have the build sheet and ProtectoPlate.

thanks for any serious concepts and ideas

With a mild hyd roller cam your reliability is gonna be better and in the process should add some torque to the little engine

I can look up some Crane grinds for you, Can you let me know the cylinder heads casting number ? You can post it or PM me

I'm here and everybody know's I have a real big soft spot in my heart for the little engine that can!!

I'd install a set of 305HO, -601 heads on her along w/ shim headgaskets to get your CR up to as close to 10 to 1 as I could. Cc the -601's so you can calculate what it will be b/c they vary from 52 to I figure 58 cc's.

Add a small solid lifter flat tappet cam like an old GM stock 283/327 Duntov or Isky Z-20 and a set of cheap Z-28, (-142), valve springs and it will rpm like it's meant to!!

Clevite sell's a little bitty solid lifter cam, but I dumped my computer so maybe onna the other guys will post it up if you don't want to run one as big as the Duntov or Z-20 both at 228 duration at .050" vs the Clevite cam at 219 so the Clevite borders on being a mild hi-po stocker imho. Probably perfect for what you want.

I found it and came back.

Clevite PN 229-1998; 258/219/270/229, 114/110, .456"/.479", and lash at .022" and .022".

Now if you want to run a hy-cam, the old Performer 204/214 and even a Crane 266/266 Energizer are very good here, again, imho!!

And put an 1850 Holley on her on a Weiand 8004 w/ an adpter. Add a cheap set of 4-tube, long headers and go have more fun w/ her than John Law will allow!

And I bet it will surprise quite a few bigger engined cars!

It won't produce enough t to hurt your 3-speed stick OD so you are fine there.

pdq67

I guess I would vote to just rebuild with quality parts, keeping the stock heads, etc.

I also have another hot rod beside the Chevelle, and pretty much did not want or need to put any expensive performance parts that were not needed on the 350.

There is really no such thing as one or two items giving a big increase in performance. If you do heads, you need a cam, carb, intake, headers, etc to take advantage of them.

Keep this one stock.

I'd spend the rebuild maney on a GM crate 350, base on is around 260 hp and do the adds you suggested. Save the 283 for if you ever sell the car. It'll be more fun to drive and no one will notice the difference.

I have one of these in my K5 Blazer.If you shop around you can pick one up very reasonable.Its no hot rod engine and I doubt its going to break your "Overdrive" unless you work at it.The point here is rebuilding the 283 is going to cost you some time and money, and this is bolt in and go.Just my .02

I've got TWO 283 mild performance engine projects in the works right now.
Similar to what Paul has outlined but with hyd cams.
PM me if interested for further details.

i had a completely rebuilt stock 283 in a 66 belair down to the rochester 2 barrel.it was a powerglide model . that thing ran so good you wouldnt believe it. it was torquey, idled smooth as glass and got 23 mpg on the highway. i sold it 5 yrs ago anr i really miss it. was my daily driver

My personal inclination would be to hot rod it, but I think in your case you could get away cheap with simply repairing what's wrong. Take care of the leak at the rear main and maybe hard seat the heads. Leave the rest alone and drop it back in.

Devin

Sounds to me that he wants to keep it stock for a driver so go talk to your local machine shop and ask them what it would cost for a stock rebuild. I`m guessing it`ll be around $1300-$1600 because the labor is the same regardless of engine size but the 283 parts tend to cost a little more because they aren`t as common. I would recomend the GM crate 350 as well and I really doubt you`ll break your tranny especially if it`s a driver now. Doesn`t sound like you hotrod it at all. I would`nt spend the money on the roller valve train unless your looking for more performance but even then you don`t need it for this set up. I would just keep it simple and enjoy your car.

Small displacement SBCs are awsome. Roller cams are expensive but they are definatly better. Way more interesting than an out of a box 350. Problem I see is the heads, which I think are the most important thing. High flowing heads vs some old stock POS can make or ruin an engines performance. 283ci is 4.6L, plenty of displacement to get your car moving, just ask someone with a mustang. Question is, can you make it breath like a modern engine.

I'm here and everybody know's I have a real big soft spot in my heart for the little engine that can!!

I'd install a set of 305HO, -601 heads on her along w/ shim headgaskets to get your CR up to as close to 10 to 1 as I could. Cc the -601's so you can calculate what it will be b/c they vary from 52 to I figure 58 cc's.

Add a small solid lifter flat tappet cam like an old GM stock 283/327 Duntov or Isky Z-20 and a set of cheap Z-28, (-142), valve springs and it will rpm like it's meant to!!

Clevite sell's a little bitty solid lifter cam, but I dumped my computer so maybe onna the other guys will post it up if you don't want to run one as big as the Duntov or Z-20 both at 228 duration at .050" vs the Clevite cam at 219 so the Clevite borders on being a mild hi-po stocker imho. Probably perfect for what you want.

I found it and came back.

Clevite PN 229-1998; 258/219/270/229, 114/110, .456"/.479", and lash at .022" and .022".

Now if you want to run a hy-cam, the old Performer 204/214 and even a Crane 266/266 Energizer are very good here, again, imho!!

And put an 1850 Holley on her on a Weiand 8004 w/ an adpter. Add a cheap set of 4-tube, long headers and go have more fun w/ her than John Law will allow!

And I bet it will surprise quite a few bigger engined cars!

It won't produce enough t to hurt your 3-speed stick OD so you are fine there.

pdq67

This is friggin poetry.....POETRY!!!!

You da man, Paul.

I noticed you're in Exeter. If you want to go with the best on the rebuild, Dave Smith Engineering is just south of town off Hwy 65 near Ave 256. He's the only one in Tulare county I know of that uses a clean room for engine assembly.

Thanks Coupe,

I dearly love the little old 283!!

Hopped up PROPER, you can get dam near 600hp outta her!!

pdq67

Paul, my dad had a '63 Impala with a PG and a 283 when he was in high school (class of '68). It wore lettering on the fenders somthing like this:
SUPER TUNED IN IONIA, MICHIGAN

He drove it every day and won trophies with it at the strip.

This thread starter needs get that little mill poppin' and lopin'!!!

Yup heads is the problem on the 283. You have to keep the cc's down or it kills the CR in a hurry. The Power Pak heads had like 55 cc I think, and the 305 HO heads Paul recommends are low CC too, at like 59 I think. I have 2 sets of old power paks at my buddies, and in a rage at iron heads I gave away a stinkin set of 305 HO's 6 or 7 years ago, but that was also during my divorce so I was kinda insane and forgive myself. Trick Flow has a great head for the 283, it's something like a tfs 303030003....whole dam buncha 3's and zeroes anyway. And the TF has accessory boltholes. Now the Vortec head, in addition to being too damn big on CC's, won't work with a dome. And trying to stick a newer spider mess for a roller mess in an older block ruins the integrity of the oil gallery (to me anyway). Which puts you into the retro-rollers if you want a roller, and I don't blame you if you do want one just have a thousand dollar bill handy by the time you add it all up. Me, I'm going solid FT and it'll be the last FT I ever do. Yeah right.

Now going the 327 crank in the 283 block to get a 312 if you bore it .030 requires one mainest thing.....your block has to be what they call 'round-bottomed'. That means that the bottoms of the cylinders must be round to the curvature of the block so the crank counterweights don't hit. Some 283 blocks have square bottom bores.

Mine is a 66, and it is round-bottomed except #4 hole that has a sleeve I can whittle on if necessary. And my freeby 327SJ forged crank will be right at home, chucked up to some TRW 307 .030 domed pistons I scored on ebay.

And I had some buddies give me a vortec headed 1998 roller 305, because I wanted the roller mess for my 283. And I decided not to use one stinking bit of that crap on my baby, mainly cuz it won't work without screwing up some other part of the plan but hey I claim pure old school anyway. And I ended up with 305 junk strewed all across my garage, and decided the best way to clean that mess up was to build the 305 so I did a $249 overhaul including a valve job and brand new aluminum chinese vortec intake from summit, and stuck that 305 in my 66 PU when I decided the ZZ4 was just waytahell too much. And I hate myself for saying it but that 305 is one sweet little bastard. 249 friggin bucks.

Oh and on head gaskets there's a GM gasket that is 4.000 bore and .028 thick I think, P/N is NAL10105117 or something. They are fairly cheap too, and kind of rubbery feeling. 20 bucks ea at summit.

thanks Gents....good replys, all of them. One last question: since mine is almost the last 283 is a passengar car (deliver May,1967), I understand that it has the thinner block.

Can I successfully have it bored .060" over??

Anyone tried that much?

ALL 283 blocks will go .060" over. :yes:

And fwiw, powerhouse sells some cast-iron 49 or 50 cc chambered big valved heads if not mistaken, but I also think they may be 200 cc's intake ported.

Probably WAY TOO BIG for all but the "knarliest" of hopped up 283/292/301's!

pdq67

thanks Dave....I have seriously considered a new motor, but decided to keep my 283 because -
1. You just don't see very many original 283s.
2. I have the rare combo of 283, 3 speed stick, and overdrive, and perhaps a healthy 350 torque would break my overdrive.
3. With six cars in a four car garage, I just don't have a great place to store another motor.
4. And, after owning the car for 40+ years, my plans are to keep her.
5. I drive my Malibu fewer than 2,000 miles a year, and am happy with current performance.
6. If I feel a need for speed, I take the car cover off my C5 Corvette, and hit the road!

Bob,

Ditto. My Dad's '65 Elk has a 283, 3 on the tree with overdrive. Aftermarket air and he installed PS & PB. He recently fixed his overdrive and it works. PM me for contact info and I will see what he had to do to get it to work.
E.

IF you want to spend the money, Trick flow makes a nice set of aluminum heads with 56cc chambers that flow well with 1.94 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves that should work well on a 283. THey flow 242 cfm at .500 lift and will work on a 305 so a 283 should be no problem with the larger bore. They should really wake up your 283.

thanks...I know the quality of TrickFlow. One time thought about them for my C5.

I'll post to this thread once I get advise from my newly discovered engine builder in Exeter. Thanks for the tip.

Bob

Please do no more than pick up a good cheap set of 305HO, -601 heads, cc them so you know what they are and set your CR at 9.75 to 10 to 1 and go!

This is, imho, the BEST bang for your $Buck for a 283/292 and a low-lift, roundy-round spec'd cam and I have a bare set out in the garage now for my depending on the availability of CHEAP piston's for a 292/301/306.

And if it is a 301/306, I will go cheap domed pistons like I did way back then when I made my old junk301 IF I can buy them and my good big valve -291's and install a .500" lift cam and go.

pdq67

283 is a relative short stroke motor for small block chevy's. The timing for cam events is pretty critical as it's real easy to get too much cam. 204/212 with 112* LSA is about all you can get away with with stock automatic and converter (used 6 cyl converter will get you a bit more). You have a stick shift so you can use a bit more :thumbsup: Lift is determined by what the heads and springs will allow plus piston interference. If you want to use late model heads with accessory holes for easy front mounting, try the 305 heads.

Original Power Pak heads had 1.72 / 1.50 valves and will need hard seats plus since they don't have front holes, some accessories hang off the exhaust and that makes for short bearing life with transferred heat.

Later model 305 heads have induction hardened seats, but the iron is thinner (casting) so you have to be more careful with the grinder or cutters. 601 heads have 53cc chambers and 416 heads have 57 cc chambers. They both have 1.84 / 1.50 valves which fit 283 bores fine and they both flow about the same. Being careful to do a good job bowl blending and working the exhaust port will get you significant better flow numbers and they will support a nasty little 283.

Stock crank, shot peened rods and ARP bolts will get you 6,500 plus safely.

You'll need headers to pull hard with a bigger cam. Rams horn cast exhaust manifolds work and so do 305 Van & Truck OEM welded ones for a mild street motor. A small early style 'Vette cam will work fine for the street. You can run 1.6 roller rockers to get a bit more lift without a more radical duration cam. Try to keep the intake runners similar to the heads. You have a smaller air pump, so big runners will do you no good. 600 CFM carb will be fine.

Keith Black 283 pistons have installed height of 1.805" so they come close to zero deck. They have 6cc valve reliefs. They actually work well with teh 601 53cc heads. Good pistons for the rebuild. Silv-O-Lites have 3cc valve reliefs and they install at 1.779", so they are down the block by about 0.025" which is OK with a GM head gasket (0.028") or thin shim steel gasket. Federal/Mogul pistons are not advised as they have an installed height of 1.656" which puts you way down the block with low compression unless you have a block that has been decked (a lot). Since yours is likely original, I wouldn't use F/M pistons. In all cases, try to keep the squish area between 0.040 and 0.050 or you will end up with nasty pinging with any of the smaller chamber heads.

These are fun motors :hurray: