Well, I was driving and when I got home, and pop the hood - I found out the bolt holding my alternator to the cylinder head is broken. the bolt have been ripped in half and it is not sticking out - i can get a picture if you guys want, but what do you guys recommend me in doing with a broken bolt?

thanks!

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Alan

1969 Chevelle SS396 code 72 (http://216.71.10.3/mychevelle/)

After you get the alternator off and everything from around the broken bolt, take a slender, SHARP pointer punch and tap around the edges of the broken bolt and try to rotate it out of the threaded hople. Unless it is rusty or otherwise stuck, it should come right out. If this fails, get a chisel that will fit into the hole and smack it smartly with a hammer to put a groove in it. Try a thin bladed screwdriver. If that fails, you are up to the EZ out method. This is not difficult, but takes a little care. 2 basic methods. First, get the set of screw remover drill bits from Sears. They are lefhanded drills and work great. If that is not an option, drill the proper size hole in the broken screw, drive in the proper size EZ out and turn it out with a good adjustable wrench. Best of luck to you. Dennymac


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Dennymac
'69 Elky Rebuild in process
dennymac.com (http://dennymac.com)

The hard part is getting the drill bit started in the center of the broken off bolt but the left handed (CCW) bits mentioned above a lot of times will turn the bolt right out before you get it drilled through

You might already know this but that is a special stud that is 7/16" on one end and 3/8" on the long part that goes through the alternator

yup, i just got myself one of those screw remover from ACE's , and getting it to "bite" is the hard part, already used up a battery on my cordless drill - lol.

im gonna give it another shot after lunch

thanks for the reply

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dean:
The hard part is getting the drill bit started in the center of the broken off bolt but the left handed (CCW) bits mentioned above a lot of times will turn the bolt right out before you get it drilled through

You might already know this but that is a special stud that is 7/16" on one end and 3/8" on the long part that goes through the alternator<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

anyone here uses the lower alternator bracket thing that bolts to the waterpump like the one in this page (http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1000&prmenbr=361)? whats the difference of that than to just bolt the alternator to teh cylinderhead?

thanks

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Alan

1969 Chevelle SS396 code 72 (http://216.71.10.3/mychevelle/)

you should have both

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dean:
you should have both <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

both...

well, the last owner managed to use one long bolt to bolt it into the cylinder head instead of using a lower alternator bracket, he used alot of spacers too...

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Alan

1969 Chevelle SS396 code 72 (http://216.71.10.3/mychevelle/)

[This message has been edited by slpin (edited 01-25-2003).]

As stated above, you should have had both of those brackets and a long spacer tube, about 3-3&1/2" to space the alternator from the block and not put all the strain on the stud

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1969 SS 396 Camaro/Th 400/355s.(454 now)
Not a Chevelle but the BBC guys are here!

i fixed my alternator problem, gives a different whin now though because it is not parallel with the waterpump but it works fine. thanks all for the help!

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Alan

1969 Chevelle SS396 code 72 (http://216.71.10.3/mychevelle/)