I am putting together the parts for a C5 brake swap on my car. I should have everything I need other than the master by next week. So now I am having a really hard time trying to decide on which master to run and if I should stay with my power setup or switch to manual.

I grabbed these sizes from another site I will check them tonight:
C5 calipers (dual piston 1 9/16" fronts and single piston 1.75" rears)

Not sure on the leverage ratio of the pedal. Anyone know what a stock Chevelle is in power/manual spot on the pedal?

I have been reading a lot and it looks like I have the following options:

Power:
S-10 15/16" requires machining of the OD to fit in the booster. Not sure which year I think late 80's. SAE ports on the stock side.

C5 1" requires machining, not exactly sure what. Stock side ports, but metric.

LS1 1" direct bolt on. Opposite side ports and metric.

Manual:
'69 Corvette 1" bore deep pushrod hole

'77 Monte Carlo I think I heard people talking about.

I have also been looking at the CNC Brakes dual master setup. Any advantages to this? Do they make a bolt in Chevelle setup?

Now on to the manual vs power. I have read quite a few threads and a lot of people like the manual feel. I have never had a car with manual brakes. Any input?

I have the 69 Corvette manual master cylinder on my car (C5 front, LS1 rear) with HP+ pads and it stops great. Just a warning, until the pads are bedded in, it takes a bit more effort to stop, but once bedded, it stops great with only 1 foot. I don't know the pedal ratio for sure but my car was manual brakes from the factory. The more aggresive pads help a bit I'm pretty sure. Add hydroboost and (with good tires) you could throw passengers through the windshield (well almost, don't try this at home).

what about hydroboost with c5 with master cylinder then?

What about LT F car master, I have one laying around? It works fine with the C5/LS1 rear stuff in my 4th gen F car...... Has anyone used one of them?

I ended up getting a C5 master from ebay yesterday. It should be here in the next week or so. I will post how it turns out.

I put C5 stuff on my '66. I wasn't sure what would work, so I bought an inexpensive parts-store master cylinder first, and If it worked well, I would "upgrade" to something fancy (like Wilwood, etc)... I ended up selling the car before I got around to changing the master (it worked great, so I left it alone)...

My engine compartment had Kind of a stock look, with heater Delete plates, and valve covers that mimicked the stock ones, plus I was on a budget, so I went with manual brakes (replacing factory discs)...

I used the older Corvette manual master, and everything was great, stopped fine... Stopped as well as the factory power discs... If it hadn't been enough, then I would have gone power or Hydroboost...

I am a big fan of manual brakes. When the pedal is setup with the rod in the upper hole you will have about a 6:1 pedal ratio. To make the manual brakes work right I would suggest using a 15/16" bore MC. On my GTO I used a MC from a 1979 Malibu with manual brakes. It was about $25 and came with a rod.

Another more expensive option is to use the Wilwood 7/8" bore MC.

Andrew

Matt - I have the 4 way c5 calipers - the rear PBRs are identical to the LS1/F-body calipers. I tried two different 1 1/8" MCs (the brakes didn't work so one had to be bad - right?) Two different 11" boosters - non of that worked. It wasn't until I bought a vette 1" MC did I start getting enough pressure to actually stop the car. I'd like to try something even smaller, 15/16" or find a 7/8" or 3/4" one to fit.

i also have an extra LT F car MC that i would like to try.. would that be god enough, or should i just go with the old vette one?

aaron

Aaron - if it's free, and 1" bore or less, give it a try - you have nothing to lose but a little time.

yeah, its left over my my ta. ill have to measure it and give it a whirl

how about power boosters from late model cars.. like 4th gen f cars.. they bolt up and work okay?

aaron

Late model boosters won't just bolt up. Most of them have the studs on the booster different than our setup which is opposite. I will be trying out the C5 1" master on my 11" booster. Scott (nitrorocket) the '71 TT LS1 was running this setup and he liked it. I've thought about going manual, but I drive a lot in traffic and if it's good enough for a Z06 Corvette it should be good for my Chevelle.

I have also looked into the S-10 15/16" master, but have heard it takes a little more work to fit into the booster.

BTW: Got my C5 master on ebay for $39. Keep your eyes open they are out there for cheap.

I ended up getting a C5 master from ebay yesterday. It should be here in the next week or so. I will post how it turns out.

Are you planning on using this with a booster? if so what size

I am a big fan of manual brakes. When the pedal is setup with the rod in the upper hole you will have about a 6:1 pedal ratio. To make the manual brakes work right I would suggest using a 15/16" bore MC. On my GTO I used a MC from a 1979 Malibu with manual brakes. It was about $25 and came with a rod.

Another more expensive option is to use the Wilwood 7/8" bore MC.

Andrew

Does the G body master bolt bolt on? I have a master from my 1st try at manual brakes on my G body, found it today, NIB Its from a 78 Monte Manual brake set up. It looks like a 1" bore....

Are you planning on using this with a booster? if so what size

Yes, stock 11" booster.