I have a 65ss with the m-20 4sp tranny with a 1983 350 I can't find a starter to fit the offset bolt holes and line up with the bellhousing. this is my second posting, I got one e-mail last time to use the small cast iron nose piece unit, I tried it don't fit, I've tried 4 different starters and they won't bolt up the parts guys are checking on a custom made unit but why? can anyone give me info on what model or # I need
someone somewhere has to have run into this problem before any input is appreciated thanks

65, ??
(I hate "talking" to guys with no names ! )
Which bellhousing and flywheel are you using ? The starter from the 1983 engine should work fine unless you have something unusual for a bellhousing. Let me know and I will try to figure it out.

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100

Bill- thanks for your reply
The bellhousing is the original aluminum muncie and the flywheel is a 1979 it came off of a service replacement engine(the previous engine in the car) I had no trouble with the flywheel and tranny combination before with a straight bolt type starter the new block has angled bolt holes and casting dips where i could drill and tap the block for the old starter,it looks as if the starter needs a thinner nose piece it hits on the drivers side of the bellhousing causing the starter to be pushed towards the block 3 of the 4 starters i used were close but not quite close enough any info will be appreciated-thanks

Tony Snyder
65forever

Tony, My guess is that you have a bellhousing and flywheel (153 tooth, 12.5" dia) for a 10.5" clutch setup. These were the only manual transmission applications to use the straight bolt pattern starter. You will either have to drill and tap the block for your old starter or convert to an 11" clutch/168 tooth flywheel/Offset bolt pattern starter/bellhousing. This could get expensive.

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Dave
My 65 Elky & 2002 Camaro SS (http://home.attbi.com/~bates150/images/dad/elky_ss.jpg)
Tri Power #1 (http://home.attbi.com/~bates150/images/dad/tp_left.jpg),Tri Power #2 (http://home.attbi.com/~bates150/images/dad/tp_right.jpg)
New Richmond 5-Speed (http://home.attbi.com/~bates150/images/dad/rod5.jpg)
Fan/Shroud/PRC Radiator (http://home.attbi.com/~bates150/images/dad/fan_and_shroud1.jpg)
Richmond Road Race 5-Speed, 3.07's

Dave is right, you must have the smaller flywheel. Converting to the larger 168 tooth 14" flywheel isnt much money if you know someone with parts or have a swapmeet to hit. Some of the larger flywheels are drilled for both size pressure plates, you should be able to find one cheap, and with one of those you can save your clutch setup. A used bellhousing for the larger flywheel can also be found used. I bet you can do the conversion for $100 if you can save your clutch setup. Its only labor! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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Dave
70 chevelle ss396 conv
66 chevelle ss396 hdp/conv
68/72 chevelles
55/57/61 chevies
TC member #493
Never forget Earnhardt!

The others are right. You either have to drill the block or change the flywheel.

I looked at mini starters but they all seem to have the straight bolt pattern to work with both flywheel sizes. However, they then have 2 sets of holes so they can moved in and out on the same block holes. This means than in the small flywheel position there is a mounting bolt to the inside of the one that would normally be used. Maybe you could drill a hole specially for that type of starter. Cheapest I saw was a Powermaster at www.summitracing.com (http://www.summitracing.com) for $150. Go take a look. Hopefully you see what I mean. Just keep in mind this would not be standard.

Maybe someone else can answer if there is a mini starter the would use the angled bolted pattern and meet with the smaller flywheel?


Peter

Tony,
First of all, send me the block casting number so I can positively figure out which block you have.
Next, try your original, straight bolt starter and see if it fits when bolted up with just the one end bolt. If it does, you should be able to drill and tap the block for it. I am not sure what you mean when you say the block "dips" , but as long as the starter is supported pretty flat, and you use the end brace to the block, it should be fine. Just make sure when you drill it, that you are very careful to duplicate the original holes...they have a countersunk area that helps locate the starter.

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Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1971 Heavy Chevy - original owner
Team Chevelle #100

Bill, Dave,

thanks for your help, the casting number is 3970314 or 3970814 can't tell if it's a 3 or an 8 there is a code by the casting number that ends in 73 or 78 I hope this isn't the year, the casting dips are two large countersink looking holes about .8125" in diameter on the large casting flange on the bottom of the block where the starter rests on sits real close if not on where the one of the holes needs to be. I think I'm going to try to drill the block but how deep do I go is there a chance of hitting a coolant passage I don't think there is but I thought you could put any motor in a Chevelle with no trouble. I'll post what I come up with, thanks again you guys are the best.

Tony Snyder

Tony, The closest I can come on your block is 3970014 which is a 1970-73 350 with either 2 or 4-bolt mains supposedly only installed in LA built Camaros. There should be no problem drilling and tapping the block.

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Dave
My 65 Elky & 2002 Camaro SS (http://home.attbi.com/~bates150/images/dad/elky_ss.jpg)
Tri Power #1 (http://home.attbi.com/~bates150/images/dad/tp_left.jpg),Tri Power #2 (http://home.attbi.com/~bates150/images/dad/tp_right.jpg)
New Richmond 5-Speed (http://home.attbi.com/~bates150/images/dad/rod5.jpg)
Fan/Shroud/PRC Radiator (http://home.attbi.com/~bates150/images/dad/fan_and_shroud1.jpg)
Richmond Road Race 5-Speed, 3.07's