My car seems to have an uneven acceleration. Its kinda like a flat spot, but the carb is a new edelbrock 600cfm elec. choke. Can intake manifolds go bad or is my air/fuel mixture not correct. Anyone else have any ideas? (Im 19 and this is my first muscle car, so I'm still learning.) The previous owner installed a pretty big cam and upped the comp. to about 9.5:1. If any of this matters. It has 20,000 miles on rebuild.

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1969 chevelle
built 350/th350

Does it do it with the throttle at full wile accelerating or does it do it in a range of the throttle movement?

Will

It happens during normal acceleration, also the carb might pop once.

you might have a lean mixture try increasing your primary jets 2 sizes

pull the plugs and they
will tell u if u have
a lean or rich mixture
good luck http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif
mikey mike

come to think about it
check the distrubuter ???
so that u have the spark arriving
in right time =check the weights in the dist

It sounds like you may have a miss. The first order of business is a good tune-up if you haven't already done so. Replace plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Look at the plugs carefully when you take the old ones out. Look for any signs of fouling. You have to invest in a timing light so you check the base timing, which should be around 10 or 12 degrees BTDC for your engine. Adjust the idle mixture screw to acheive the best idle quality by turning them clockwise until the idle starts to fall off, then back them out until it smooths out.

If you've tuned it recently, you need to check it for vacuum leaks. With the engine idling, slowly close off the air intake of the carb by either slowly closing the choke butterfly or by closing it off with the palm of your hand. (Remember, never look down into the throat of a carb while the engine is running.!) If you notice an increase in engine speed or if the idle seems to smooth out as you close off the carb, here's what you do next. Use something like Berryman's B-12 or WD-40 and spray (in short bursts) around the vacuum fittings, all the hoses, carb base, and the head to intake mating surfaces. Of course, this is done with the engine idling. If you hit a vacuum leak, you'll notice a quick rise in engine RPM as well an immediate improvement in idle quality. Take note of where and what you sprayed when the idle changed, because your leak is in that area. You should be able to track it down from there by inspecting the hoses in that area, looking for cracked or broken fittings, or by inspecting for blown gaskets should you locate a leak near the carb base or intake/head mating surface.

Thanks everybody, it turns out that my spark plugs couldn't handle my upgraded ignition. Now she's purring like a tiger again.


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1969 chevelle
built 350/th350
SCCCC member
http://home.earthlink.net/~thebergmans3