Well I am in the middle of my first cam break in and ran into a problem. I had it running at 2300 rpms and after a few mins things started smoking. Well in the engine bay it wasnt a big deal because it was just the oil on the headers. No leaks. Then I look up and towards the rear to realize that I am making a CLOUD of blue smoke. I was burning oil GOOD. After a few minutes it wasnt getting any better and maybe a bit worse. I went to shut it down and once I turned it off it it tried to restart on it own with the key out! It freaked me out because I wouldnt have known what to do if it actually started back up with the ignition of. It was literally sounding like it was cranking itself for a second or so. Anyway I was wondering if anyone could give me a heads up on as to what is going on. Oh, oil pressure is good and steady and about 75psi or so at 2300 rpms. No knocking, no strange sounds. I checked once again for any leaks after I shut it down and nothing. Everything was sealed well.

1. What is your initial timing set at?
2. What kind of valve covers are you running, and do you have the PCV setup??

Did you spill any coolant or oil down the exhaust while working on your car?

Alex,

As far as the car turning over by itself, check your wires on the starter solenoid. Switch wire and battery wire may have been making contact. Start the car back up and let it run for awhile longer as the rings may not have seated. Keep an eye on the oil level and finish the cam break-in. If the engine still smokes after the cam is broken in, then look for causes of the oil consumption - if it is still a problem at that time.

The distributor was dialed in perfectly at the #1 cylidner and the crank is at 15-20* on the timing tape.

My valve covers do have the PCV setup and it is plugged in.

Did you spill any coolant or oil down the exhaust while working on your car?

I dont believe so. I know that I had oil on the headers and pipes but that burnt off from the front of the motor.

Alex,

As far as the car turning over by itself, check your wires on the starter solenoid. Switch wire and battery wire may have been making contact. Start the car back up and let it run for awhile longer as the rings may not have seated. Keep an eye on the oil level and finish the cam break-in. If the engine still smokes after the cam is broken in, then look for causes of the oil consumption - if it is still a problem at that time.

Alright I will go ahead and do that next time. I was going that route but after about 5 minutes I got really worried about it and shut it down.

When I broke in my new engine, it smoked bad and later I found out that the machine shop that did my heads 'forgot' to install a valve seal on one of my valves. The #5 plug was drenched with oil when I pulled them out

Oh, and stupid me, I forgot to install the lower half of my rear main seal when I rebuilt the engine. That caused a little smoke also :clonk:

When I broke in my new engine, it smoked bad and later I found out that the machine shop that did my heads 'forgot' to install a valve seal on one of my valves. The #5 plug was drenched with oil when I pulled them out

Oh, and stupid me, I forgot to install the lower half of my rear main seal when I rebuilt the engine. That caused a little smoke also :clonk:

Well all the seals are there. I double checked that when I was putting on my new springs.

I never messed with the rear main seal.

Do your valve covers have a baffle on the inside of them? You might be sucking oil in through the PCV valve. Pull the valve out of the cover and let the engine run a bit and see if the smoke goes away

Ummm I have no idea what a valve cover baffle is? Picture? Meaning of what it does? Instead of removing the valve cover can I just unplug the hose?

Ummm I have no idea what a valve cover baffle is? Picture? Meaning of what it does? Instead of removing the valve cover can I just unplug the hose?

If you can look in through the hole where the pcv goes and see the head, rocker, springs etc its not baffled

Alright I will check that next time I am with the car. Do I just pull the whole assembly out to check? As in the rubber parts and plastic.

Oh, and stupid me, I forgot to install the lower half of my rear main seal when I rebuilt the engine. That caused a little smoke also :clonk:

You're lucky it didn't start a FIRE..:yes:

You're lucky it didn't start a FIRE..:yes:

Well I apparently I had sparks coming out of the dizzy right before I shut it down for the last time. I actually had someone walk in during the break in to see what was going on since the car hasnt been started in about 2 months and they freaked out and were just about to spray my engine bay because they saw sparks coming out of the carburetor... After that I shut it down and didnt bother trying again until I get more info about what is going on. I didnt see any sparks myself but apparently there was some there...

Oh this was also slightly before I turned it off and had it try to restart itself.

Timing is off, or valves are set right. No biggie. If the timing is far advanced, and the engine is hot, it will diesel on ya. The smoke could ahve been the exhasut system getting REALLY hot and cleaning itself out.

Check your timing. Finish the break-in!

When i started my newly rebuilt 350 on my 69 for break-in it started right up and after about 2 min it started smoking like a train and my heart hit the floor so i said after putting my soul into the build i just let her rip at 2500 rpm for about 30 min, and guess what? it cleared up and runs like a champ:hurray::D:yes::cool: DO OR DIE BABY!!!!!!

Alrght so set the crank to 0* BTDC and not 15-20* Btdc and set my distributor to perfect alignment with the number 1 cylinder. Correct? Oh by the way the smoke only starts coming after a few minutes through the exhaust. It's not instantaneous smoke.

YES, and dont worry about the smoke.

Alrght so set the crank to 0* BTDC and not 15-20* Btdc and set my distributor to perfect alignment with the number 1 cylinder. Correct? Oh by the way the smoke only starts coming after a few minutes through the exhaust. It's not instantaneous smoke.

If you do that, you will have the timing retarded, causing excess heat, not good trying to break in a motor.

Do like you were going to do, 15-20* before tdc, and align the #1 on the cap to the rotor. With the cap on, mark the base on the outside of the distributor with a marker where #1 plug is, so when you drop the distributor in, just twist it till the rotor lines up with your mark. This will give you your initial timing setting you need anyways.

On the smoke, try retorquing your intake bolts. Ports may not be sealed at bottom, and sucking oil up from the lifter valley once oil starts splashing. Has heads and/or block been decked? This would be your cause....been there done that. If so, then you will have to get your intake machined for proper fit.

YES, and dont worry about the smoke.

If you do that, you will have the timing retarded, causing excess heat, not good trying to break in a motor.

Do like you were going to do, 15-20* before tdc, and align the #1 on the cap to the rotor. With the cap on, mark the base on the outside of the distributor with a marker where #1 plug is, so when you drop the distributor in, just twist it till the rotor lines up with your mark. This will give you your initial timing setting you need anyways.

On the smoke, try retorquing your intake bolts. Ports may not be sealed at bottom, and sucking oil up from the lifter valley once oil starts splashing. Has heads and/or block been decked? This would be your cause....been there done that. If so, then you will have to get your intake machined for proper fit.

uhhhh... two different answers :( coming from people more knowledgeable than myself lol No I did not have them decked. That would mess up my angle and could cause my valves to hit the pistons and like you said I would need to get my intake machined. Sounds like a bit too much work for a simple cam swap...

I called a big car guy and he told me to check the valve stem seal clearance saying it could be the issue. Now to do so what will I need? What kind of measureing tool and how can I keep my valve from falling into the combustion chamber while measuring? Is there a way to tell if I have enough clearance by just measuring outside the spring?

Oh and I will go tighten my intake bolts more.

Do you have anyone near you that may be able to come over and give you advice in person? If you know anyone who has had experience with breaking in a cam that can come help you, it would be a big step. It's very hard to determine what exactly is going on just by reading on a messageboard. I know you are frustrated, but as you have stated, you are very inexperienced with all of this. Having someone who has a little more experience may be a big stress reliever.

Do you have anyone near you that may be able to come over and give you advice in person? If you know anyone who has had experience with breaking in a cam that can come help you, it would be a big step. It's very hard to determine what exactly is going on just by reading on a messageboard. I know you are frustrated, but as you have stated, you are very inexperienced with all of this. Having someone who has a little more experience may be a big stress reliever.

No I dont know anyone who could. Last time I brought someone over who I thought was experienced ended up giving me incredibly retarded timing and told me to use 5W-30 oil that was thin and would aid me in winter start ups... Thats what wiped my cam in the first place. Today I reached a guy (who told me about the valve seal measurement) but I dont know him at all and he has a shop about 20 minutes away so I dont know if you could come by and help :(

double post

Alex,

When you shut off your engine and you said it tried to restart on its own... do you mean it was dieseling (running on/refusing to die) or was it cranking over just like it does when you turn the key.

If it was just refusing to die or running on, it was probably due to it being at 2300rpm when you shut it off. That would be normal.

If it was cranking as if you were turning the key to start it... that would most likely be a wire shorting out as was mentioned earlier. I doubt you had sparks coming out of the carb (flames maybe, but sparks... probably not). You may have had electrical sparks coming from a short somewhere around the distributor or from the wires from your alternator. As was mentioned already the starter wires and your exhaust system can be a source of melting wire casing and shorting of your electrical system.

Please check everything carefully before trying to restart.

Definitely set your timing mark to 20 BTDC instead of 0 before starting. When it starts your timing will be less than 20 when running. Have a timing light handy and check the timing soon after start up and adjust accordingly.

Oh, and disconnect the battery before playing with your electrical... especially if you are wearing a ring or watch.... don't ask how I learned that lesson.:sad:

Good luck!

sorry keeps reposting when i hit the refresh button...

When i started my newly rebuilt 350 on my 69 for break-in it started right up and after about 2 min it started smoking like a train and my heart hit the floor so i said after putting my soul into the build i just let her rip at 2500 rpm for about 30 min, and guess what? it cleared up and runs like a champ:hurray::D:yes::cool: DO OR DIE BABY!!!!!!

Oh man I felt so bad once I saw it smoking like that. It was my first major tear down and build up and it just got really depressing when I realized that somewhere I must have completely messed up :( As far as letting it run like that I feel like something is gonna blow up, straight pipes add to that intimidation factor as well lol It is loud as hell at 2000rpm. I kinda feel bad for the neighbors :(

Alex,

When you shut off your engine and you said it tried to restart on its own... do you mean it was dieseling (running on/refusing to die) or was it cranking over just like it does when you turn the key.

If it was just refusing to die or running on, it was probably due to it being at 2300rpm when you shut it off. That would be normal.

If it was cranking as if you were turning the key to start it... that would most likely be a wire shorting out as was mentioned earlier. I doubt you had sparks coming out of the carb (flames maybe, but sparks... probably not). You may have had electrical sparks coming from a short somewhere around the distributor or from the wires from your alternator. As was mentioned already the starter wires and your exhaust system can be a source of melting wire casing and shorting of your electrical system.

Please check everything carefully before trying to restart.

Definitely set your timing mark to 20 BTDC instead of 0 before starting. When it starts your timing will be less than 20 when running. Have a timing light handy and check the timing soon after start up and adjust accordingly.

Oh, and disconnect the battery before playing with your electrical... especially if you are wearing a ring or watch.... don't ask how I learned that lesson.:sad:

Good luck!

I shut it down and it didnt want to stop I guess would be a better way to describe it. It would stop then a split second later roll over a couple times and die for good.

My timing light is hooked up and reading my rpms more accurately. It just hard to get yourself to lean over a smokey engine bay even when you know nothing is leaking and the smoke is just oil on the headers. Haha I actually had a "illusion" that when I walk back to the to car while its running to turn it off or check on the oil pressure that a cylinder head well fly off and hit me.... Yeah.... But its not a big deal it was just weird that it came to mind.

My timing is set somewhere in the middle of 15-20*

And I will disconnect the battery when dealing with electrical issues.

uhhhh... two different answers :( coming from people more knowledgeable than myself lol

Think about this for a second. You are not going to run with 0 advance timing, so why retard it to start it to begin with?



No I did not have them decked. That would mess up my angle and could cause my valves to hit the pistons and like you said I would need to get my intake machined. Sounds like a bit too much work for a simple cam swap...

"Mess up your angle"? No angles are "messed up" with regards to pistons and valves when heads are decked or blocked. They are machined flat.

Think about this for a second. You are not going to run with 0 advance timing, so why retard it to start it to begin with?




"Mess up your angle"? No angles are "messed up" with regards to pistons and valves when heads are decked or blocked. They are machined flat.

Hmmm true about the first statement. I will keep my timing the way it is now. between 15-20*

I thought when you deck the heads you also change your angle for better flow. Guess not.

I thought when you deck the heads you also change your angle for better flow. Guess not.

Oh I see now. You are thinking of angle milling. I was talking about flat milling.

Oh I see now. You are thinking of angle milling. I was talking about flat milling.

Yeah. But hmmm I spent quite a while cleaning them and the block.

When you are breaking in your cam at 2000 or so rpms you only had the timing set at 15-20? If so thats why its smoking, try having it in the ballpark of 36-38. It ran on because it was hot from the retarted timing and the idle was cranked up for your cam break in.

Dave

When you are breaking in your cam at 2000 or so rpms you only had the timing set at 15-20? If so thats why its smoking, try having it in the ballpark of 36-38. It ran on because it was hot from the retarted timing and the idle was cranked up for your cam break in.

Dave

Dave,

He is talking about setting the mark on the damper 10-15* BTDC, not total timing.

Here's what I do. set the balancer to point at 10-15, move the distributoir slightly counterclockwise, attach the timing light to #1, energize the ignition and slowly move, SLOWLY move the distributor clockwise until the light triggers. Gets ya close enough.

Alex,

As far as the car turning over by itself, check your wires on the starter solenoid. Switch wire and battery wire may have been making contact. Start the car back up and let it run for awhile longer as the rings may not have seated. Keep an eye on the oil level and finish the cam break-in. If the engine still smokes after the cam is broken in, then look for causes of the oil consumption - if it is still a problem at that time.

I thought I blew my engine one day. I was wot and went into 2nd, then heard a loud noise. It was my starter turning over as the engine was running. Scary when it didn't shut off. Turns out it was wires on the starter solenoid touching. But your problem sounds more timing related. Get it running and disconnect the vac advance and check the advanced timing. What compression and cam? Bad/old gas?

When you are breaking in your cam at 2000 or so rpms you only had the timing set at 15-20? If so thats why its smoking, try having it in the ballpark of 36-38. It ran on because it was hot from the retarted timing and the idle was cranked up for your cam break in.

Dave

Well I had the 15-20* set on the crank while I was dropping the distributor for the number one cylinder. The dizzy was set at 0*

Dave,

He is talking about setting the mark on the damper 10-15* BTDC, not total timing.

Right.

Here's what I do. set the balancer to point at 10-15, move the distributoir slightly counterclockwise, attach the timing light to #1, energize the ignition and slowly move, SLOWLY move the distributor clockwise until the light triggers. Gets ya close enough.

Energize the ignition? And what kind of light trigger am I looking for?

I thought I blew my engine one day. I was wot and went into 2nd, then heard a loud noise. It was my starter turning over as the engine was running. Scary when it didn't shut off. Turns out it was wires on the starter solenoid touching. But your problem sounds more timing related. Get it running and disconnect the vac advance and check the advanced timing. What compression and cam? Bad/old gas?

Compression is about 9.5:1. Cam is http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=468&sb=2

I had this cam in before. http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDetails.aspx?csid=15&sb=2

Would the valve seals that worked for the hydraulic cam work for my new solid cam? I really want to be able to figure this out without popping a spring and praying that the valve doesnt fall into the chamber.

Gas might be a bit old actually. Been sitting in the garage with 93 octane for roughly 3 months.

I really want to be able to figure this out without popping a spring and praying that the valve doesnt fall into the chamber.

Gas might be a bit old actually. Been sitting in the garage with 93 octane for roughly 3 months.

When you are at tdc, your number one piston will be at it's highest point in the cylinder, therefore, your valve will not fall through. Just to make sure, put a screw driver in the hole to ensure the valve stays up. Just turn your motor by hand.

When you are at tdc, your number one piston will be at it's highest point in the cylinder, therefore, your valve will not fall through. Just to make sure, put a screw driver in the hole to ensure the valve stays up. Just turn your motor by hand.

In what hole?

In what hole?

Spark plug

Spark plug

Ah thought so, just making sure.

But in the end I listed the cam and specs. Do my valve seals not work with my new cam? There listing difference is 504-16 and 505-16.

So after all of this I still cant figure out what my next step should be... Do I just keep running it until I start to lose oil pressure or something goes incredibly wrong? I just dont see what there is I can "check" because the valve seals seem to have the same dimensions and I checked them previously and they were all healthy.

Perhaps you should call Comp cams tech line and explain your concerns.

Well I had the 15-20* set on the crank while I was dropping the distributor for the number one cylinder. The dizzy was set at 0*



This doesn't even make sense. You don't SET the timing with the crank/timing tab (you READ the timing there) you set the timing with the distributor. There is no way to "set the distributor at zero" (whatever that is) by eyeballing it.

Do you own a timing light? If not, go buy one. You have absolutely no way to tell what your initial and total timing are without a timing light. My guess is you have the timing set too far advanced or too far retarded and neither is good, especially for a break in. This would also explain why the engine wanted to continue to run when you tried to shut it off. This would also explain flames shooting out of the carb.

Do you know how to check and set the timing on a running engine? You absolutely need to know how to do this before you seriously damage something. You said you installed a solid lifter cam. Do you know how to set the tappet clearances? Have you done this yet? This too is not a setting you can "kinda get close" on, it has to be fairly precise.

Please get someone with some knowledge of engines and timing to give you a hand in person before you try to start it again. Even if you need to tow it to a shop or pay a mechanic to come visit your shop, get some experienced help. You wouldn't want to damage your investment of money and time by making an easily avoidable mistake.

This doesn't even make sense. You don't SET the timing with the crank/timing tab (you READ the timing there) you set the timing with the distributor. There is no way to "set the distributor at zero" (whatever that is) by eyeballing it.

Do you own a timing light? If not, go buy one. You have absolutely no way to tell what your initial and total timing are without a timing light. My guess is you have the timing set too far advanced or too far retarded and neither is good, especially for a break in. This would also explain why the engine wanted to continue to run when you tried to shut it off. This would also explain flames shooting out of the carb.

Do you know how to check and set the timing on a running engine? You absolutely need to know how to do this before you seriously damage something. You said you installed a solid lifter cam. Do you know how to set the tappet clearances? Have you done this yet? This too is not a setting you can "kinda get close" on, it has to be fairly precise.

Please get someone with some knowledge of engines and timing to give you a hand in person before you try to start it again. Even if you need to tow it to a shop or pay a mechanic to come visit your shop, get some experienced help. You wouldn't want to damage your investment of money and time by making an easily avoidable mistake.

What I meant by the 15-20* remark was that it was supposed to set my initial timing. As I was told in the previous posts.

I do know how to set my timing, I just dont know how to pre set it for a cam break in. I could easily find out my timing at 2000rpm with my timing light but have yet to do so because of my concern with the oil burning.

Yes I set my valve lash to .016 just like it said to do so on the cam card.

I do believe my problem could be a timing issue but I just dont know how that would cause so much oil literally coming out of my exhaust and building up on the ground to a point where I can slide on it...

My valve seals were all fine and my head gaskets were put on with proper procedure and my intake manifold is torqued down well.

So if I am setting my timing wrong. Please tell how to set it properly, I dont think its as easy as put the crank at tdc and align the distributor with the number one cylinder. That would lead to retarded timing. I dont know of any other way to set the initial timing other than marking where it is at tdc then turning the crank 15-20* as it says on the timing marks and then adjust my distributor back to the #1 cylinder firing.

When breaking in a cam I get the timing so it will start, then advance the timing till the it sounds like it's running nice & easy. You'll know what I mean if you listen to the difference in sound, if you go too far the engine will slow down.

Check your wiring and when that all checks out get it started again. Let it warm up a bit (about a minute) and then disconnect and plug the vacuum advance. Check the timing with it idling (it will still be on fast idle since it won't be fully warmed up but that's okay) and try to get it in the 15-20 degree range. Reconnect the vacuum advance and then continue with your break in process.

My 396 cam break in scared me as well. Low timing caused smoke. After I got it set right it quit smoking. (Thanks Scott-SWEATEN)
Do you have umbrella seals?

Hey I went through something like this long ago.. Took me a while to realize that the reason I rebuilt the engine in the 1st place was because it started using oil. Mine smoked while I was breaking it in because there was still oil in the exhaust. Gave it a couple of days to burn off and it went away. If oil pressure, temps look good go ahead and finish breaking in. JMO

What part of Missouri are you located? Maybe there is a member here that would be close enough to help you out a little bit.

I know your getting alot of answers. Try to stick to the basics. Its a good idea to have a friend over and have some one keep the car runnining at start up while you check the timing.I know you said blue smoke, but it may be a good idea to also check your oil for any coolant in the oil. I dont live near you at all, but would be willing to spend time on the phone with you....... it may be a little easier than typing the whole conversation. Lots of guys here have helped me ! PM sent

Just because your intake is torqued down doesn`t mean the gaskets are not leaking. Did they line up with the ports? Is it possible they may have torn or slipped down a little. Was this just a cam change or a new engine? If it`s a new engine is it possible the rings got installed upside down?

Well no it is not a new engine. It is just a new cam. I live in the 64836 area so if anyone is around they are welcome to stop by.

Update.

Alright. It ended up being a timing issue. It was running VERY retarded. I think what went wrong was when I put the harmonic dampener back on. I must have put it on wrong... Even though I aligned it with the tooth... Can someone explain how I could have messed up? Didnt even think about the dampener. Anyway I finished the cam break in. I had it advanced as far as I could on its current tooth and the red hot headers turned back to normal and temp and oil pressure was good. Still had some backfire as it was running but not too bad. How should I go about setting my timing now?

Okay one more thing. I found a leak. Its in a place that I didnt even touch. Its right behind the oil pan area next to the transmission. Thats where it drips anyway... It could have come from another place. Any ideas?

If harmonic balancer's notch is indexed on the key in the crank, then you installed the balancer correctly. You have to use a special tool to seat the balancer evenly on the crank(it is pressed on). Did you install the cam with the timing mark on the cam sprocket lined up with the one on the crank sprocket?This is important otherwise the marks on your balancer are no longer valid. The leak you described sounds like a possible rear main seal leak.

If harmonic balancer's notch is indexed on the key in the crank, then you installed the balancer correctly. You have to use a special tool to seat the balancer evenly on the crank(it is pressed on). Did you install the cam with the timing mark on the cam sprocket lined up with the one on the crank sprocket?This is important otherwise the marks on your balancer are no longer valid. The leak you described sounds like a possible rear main seal leak.

Yes it was precise when I aligned the crankshaft and camshaft with the timing chain. The balancer is not wobbling either so I would think its on properly... I dont think its a rear main seal leak since it has never leaked before and I never touched it during the entire process. I have a feeling it is my intake manifold, I will check when I get home.

Update.

Alright. It ended up being a timing issue. It was running VERY retarded. I think what went wrong was when I put the harmonic dampener back on. I must have put it on wrong... Even though I aligned it with the tooth...

Can you explain this more? The damper only goes on one way. I remember when you said you were going to start it with 15* BTDC. BTDC is to the left of the 0 timing mark facing the engine. Just had to state the obvious. Then you should have aligned the rotor to number one plug. It should have fired on the first turn, and be happy. ????

Can you explain this more? The damper only goes on one way. I remember when you said you were going to start it with 15* BTDC. BTDC is to the left of the 0 timing mark facing the engine. Just had to state the obvious. Then you should have aligned the rotor to number one plug. It should have fired on the first turn, and be happy. ????

Yes I put on the damper on the tooth, the only way it can go on. So I still understand how it has slipped... It only goes on one way. :confused: When I stated I put it at 15* BTDC I turned it to TDC. Then rotated the engine counter clockwise until it was somewhere between 15-20* on the TAPE. Not on the black part where there is no numbers.

Oh and I am 99% sure that my rear main seal has a SLIGHT leak. I think its RTVable.

Update.

Alright. It ended up being a timing issue. It was running VERY retarded. I think what went wrong was when I put the harmonic dampener back on. I must have put it on wrong... Even though I aligned it with the tooth... Can someone explain how I could have messed up? Didnt even think about the dampener. Anyway I finished the cam break in. I had it advanced as far as I could on its current tooth and the red hot headers turned back to normal and temp and oil pressure was good. Still had some backfire as it was running but not too bad. How should I go about setting my timing now?

Okay one more thing. I found a leak. Its in a place that I didnt even touch. Its right behind the oil pan area next to the transmission. Thats where it drips anyway... It could have come from another place. Any ideas?


So have you put a timing light on it and have the timing set now ?

If you keep having timing issues, sometimes it's just best to start at the beginning and verfy TDC, Timing marks Etc.

For ex. on a stock style balancer.... the outer ring can slip so if you dont verify your timing marks at tdc when you put it back together, you would not Know.

So have you put a timing light on it and have the timing set now ?

If you keep having timing issues, sometimes it's just best to start at the beginning and verfy TDC, Timing marks Etc.

For ex. on a stock style balancer.... the outer ring can slip so if you dont verify your timing marks at tdc when you put it back together, you would not Know.

I will probably restart with the timing. I must have done something wrong somewhere...

How can I place outer ring back into position? If it fell out of position it should be able to slide back into position...

Oh and I cant set the timing properly because the damper was showing me 60*+ and theres no way it can be that high and start and run properly without ping...

If the outer ring is slipping, you should replace the unit.