: Welder Advice
mc71454 Jan 4th, 09, 2:12 AM If you were to own one MIG welder what would it be ?
110 or 220 is a 220 unit really needed for occasional use ?
I have been putting off buying my own for years now because I can't make up my mind and I have 2 very close friends that are incredible TIG and MIG welders, not to mention my neighbor that does it for a living. I designed an addition for his house for free, he welds for me when I need it. BUT it is time to get my own.
Any suggestions would be good.
Bow_Tied Jan 4th, 09, 2:25 AM I don't think you'd ever be sorry you got a 220V, but a quality 110V will do a lot of work too.
rhamm1320 Jan 4th, 09, 2:54 AM My experience is a 110v will do the casual job, but 220v if you are serious. When I put in my roll cage with a 110, it just did not seem to have the penetration to do the overhead welds needed.
I ended up cutting the whole cage out because I wasn't happy and paid a chassis shop to do it right.
With that said, the 110 was perfect for stitching in body panels. All depends upon your intended use.
cobaltchev67 Jan 4th, 09, 3:06 AM Miller 220v
I have one, a Millermatic 185. My Dad has had one for years, a Millermatic 175. Lots of service centers, parts availability, and they're the leader in the industry.
jpete Jan 4th, 09, 9:10 AM My experience is a 110v will do the casual job, but 220v if you are serious. When I put in my roll cage with a 110, it just did not seem to have the penetration to do the overhead welds needed.
I ended up cutting the whole cage out because I wasn't happy and paid a chassis shop to do it right.
With that said, the 110 was perfect for stitching in body panels. All depends upon your intended use.
x2
I originally bought a 220v Lincoln because it was a screaming deal. I welded a few heavy projects and it was perfect. But when I tried to use it for sheet metal, even on the lowest setting, I was blowing holes in everything.
I ran across a 110v and am much happier with it for "everyday" work.
BULKSS Jan 4th, 09, 9:48 AM Tom my brother was just in the same situation. I advised him on getting a 220 unit that would run both gas shielded wire and flux core wire. As far as what machine I would stick with a Miller, Lincoln or Hobart, and I would also buy from a welding supply place where you can try a few different machines . You may spend a few more dollars for a welder at a supply house but usually after trying a few you have a machine that fits your needs.
Racing Jan 4th, 09, 9:59 AM I have a 220v Millermatic 185 w/gas shield. It works on body panels on up. Never have cared for the flux core wire.
SleeperBBC Jan 4th, 09, 10:08 AM I purchased a Hobart Handler 140 setup for gas and it welded like crap. I though maybe it was me since I hadn't welded in about 10 years. After messing around with the gas settings and some other stuff, I found it came with flux core wire.
Solid wire installed and it welds great! Perfect for exhaust, brackets, sheetmetal, ect. Whatever you do, made sure you have the option for gas.
cessnarob Jan 4th, 09, 10:10 AM I have had many welders from 110v-220v. I bought a new Lincoln Power Mig 215 220v this summer and love it to death..I can even set it up for aluminum to make those custom brackets and polish them up !!! I can weld sheet metal on chevelle all the way up to Backhoe buckets and frames with it.:thumbsup:
1965stlhrsrdr Jan 4th, 09, 11:22 AM bought a lincoln 180 about three months ago.love it ! compact size,220v,capable of doing any car stuff,solid(with gas)or flux core,and can add an aluminum spool gun.welder itself was about $650.
BillsCamino Jan 4th, 09, 11:27 AM Tom,
I've got a Hobart 175...220V...made by Miller.
Does everything that you could possibly need to do. Actually have it loaned out right now.
My bro-in-law's shop has a 110V mig that works well for exhaust work but really can't handle any of the heavy stuff.
68bye Jan 4th, 09, 12:09 PM I have a "Fender Mender" It's a commercial welder and can quick change from aluminum to steel. The thing works great! It's a 220v unit. I also have a Blue Point 110v unit that works great for every little job I do. I've even done roll bars with it and get plenty of penetration from the little welder. The key is to know how to use it. For thicker jobs, you need .030 or .035 wire and turn the heat all the way up. I also change the pattern I use and I've never had a problem with a broken weld. I've even burned through 1/8 inch steel with my little welder. That's PLENTY of heat for the bigger jobs.
slim Jan 4th, 09, 12:36 PM i have a hobart beta mig 200a./220v. has two settings where your switch the hot lead from low to high with heavy duty wing nut. handles anything from light to heavy welding. the type of welder for you depends on your usage and what you get involved with. i consider myself a little above the average guy on what i do in my hobby, so i opt. for the 220v. Jim
mc71454 Jan 4th, 09, 12:41 PM Thanks for the input, Great Information....Looks like the "220" is on my list.
I could always borrow a 110 from a number of people for any thin work.
Tom
hoffbug Jan 4th, 09, 12:46 PM Ive been looking at the Millermatic 212 with spoolgun for aluminum (http://cgi.ebay.com/MILLERMATIC-212-MIG-WELDER-3035-SPOOLGUN-951068_W0QQitemZ250345028544QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_ Welders?hash=item250345028544&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50).. looks like it should cover most, if not all , of what Ill ever do...
Now if everything else woulds stop eating all my money Ill be in business this spring :)
http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/spec_sheets/DC12-46.pdf
BillK Jan 4th, 09, 2:33 PM Tom,
Realistically, what are yo going to be welding ? I went through this same decision last summer and after talking to my buddy at B&R welders, I ended up getting a Miller 140. It is 110v and I can throw it in the back of my Tahoe with a small bottle and go anywhere to help out a friend without worrying about them having 220 available.
I used to have a Millermatic 35 at the shop, so I know what a heavy duty welder will do however .....
I have yet to find a job that the 140 will not handle. Yesterday, I filled two 1" holes 1 1/2" deep in a crankshaft for balancing reasons. The 140 never missed a lick and never shut down due to reaching its duty cycle. This was with it turned up as high as it would go and I was welding for a good ten minutes straight. And yet you can turn it down and do sheet metal just as easily. I have welded up some engine cradles out of 1/8" material and it does just fine, plenty of penetration. Fixed a small utility trailer for a customer, probably was also 1/8" .... no problem at all. 1/8" is really about the thickest metal that 99% of us will ever weld anyway.
If you dont think you will ever need to use the welder in another location, or you plan on welding a bunch of 1/4" or thicker steel, then the 220 unit is the way to go, but from what I see it would be a waste of money.
Just my opinion,
Chris R Jan 5th, 09, 3:10 AM Im not a very good welder but wanted something that was overkill. So I picked up a Millermatic 212 last summer even though my garage isnt set of for 220 yet. It was on sale along with thier top of the line digital elite helmet. Was well worth the 1500 dollars I spent total.
I got to try it out before I bought it and was the reason I made the decision in the first place.
I got a Millermatic 135, I built a rotteserie out of 1/4" stock. Just had to crank it up, and slow down the oscillation.
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/Picture_0074.jpg
BusDriver Jan 5th, 09, 10:17 AM Lot of weldors rave about the Hobart 187, it's a 220 unit that still gets high marks for lightweight stuff, and it's a blazing steal at it's price.
It's in the same compact case as the Hobart 140, so portability isn't a big issue.
If you have 220 and don't think you'll have to travel with it much, you won't go wrong with any big name machine in that class, IMO.
70 SS LS-5 Jan 5th, 09, 11:50 AM I've been using a Lincoln 175 plus MIG for quite a few years now and I love it. It has infinite adjustability so I can easily weld thin sheet metal, thick plate metal, aluminum, engine blocks, etc.
Don't listen to anybody that says a 220v welder can't weld thin sheet metal well. If a 220v machine won't weld thin sheet metal, it's because it doesn't have enough adjustability, not simply because it's 220v.
Mike
lucky3 Jan 5th, 09, 5:35 PM Miller now makes a new millermatic 211 which can run on either 110 or 220. Its the same size as the mm140 and mm180. YOu get the best of both worlds with just one welder. Its a awsome machine it goes up to 210amps.
creeper72 Jan 13th, 09, 4:41 PM Tom , if you go with the 220 set up. Look hard at the Hobart 187. Its a good machine and a great price.
dpvoiceguy Jan 14th, 09, 2:19 PM Another vote for the Hobart Handler 140...excellent machine!
I share Bill K's philosophy. I've already had it at my father-in-law's house doing a repair for him. It's like a pickup truck...once people find out you've got it you suddenly have a lot more friends!
ChevelleKid Mar 20th, 09, 8:25 AM Millermatic 135, got it used for $200 and it is one of the best welders I have used, and we have a 220 Lincoln Fully Digital $5000 welder at my shop...(I dunno the model number)
I have yet to use it on really thick tubing but I wanna get some tubing and just screw around with it.
If you don't have a Miller or Lincoln you don't have a good welder IMO. I have used a Miller trouble free for 20 years.
Jcdubs Mar 20th, 09, 12:10 PM I have a Millermatic 135 for my home shop, great little welder.
And i have a Hobart Ironman 250 at work. Also a very good welder
317millhand Mar 20th, 09, 12:27 PM I'll give the Hobart 187 another vote. I own one and it as the widest range of any. Use gas and solid wire on sheet metal and save the flux cored for the larger stuff.
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