View Full Version : 65 Chevelle front side windows adjust


CapSS92
Dec 31st, 08, 7:32 AM
Hi all,
Does anyone have a body service manual instructions for adjusting the front side windows? I changed over to power windows and now I can't get the damn things to sit straight when they are rolled up. I thought I had the procedure in my manuals but apparently the assembly and chassis service manual don't have it. I had wanted to get them done over the New Years holiday.Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Alex

Stalkingbear
Dec 31st, 08, 10:02 AM
Have you done a search on site? The procedure for a '65 was posted.

CapSS92
Dec 31st, 08, 12:21 PM
I tried several different searches but the only one I found was for the rear quarters. Someone was nice enough to post some scanned pages from the manual. If you can point me in a direction that would be awesome. Thanks.

Stalkingbear
Dec 31st, 08, 1:08 PM
Ok... that is probably what I remembered. It is possible it is NOT on the site, then. I'm assuming that by not sitting straight, you mean front to back? Is it low in the back or front of the window?

MikeMalibu
Dec 31st, 08, 5:28 PM
Alex,

The tilt is adjusted with the short horizontal channel piece mounted at the center of the inner door panel. The rear-most bolt on that channel is in a vertical slot that gives you the tilt adjustment. Also, check the front and rear stops to make sure you are not limiting travel. I recently installed power windows myself, so maybe I can offer some pointers if you want to call me.

CapSS92
Jan 2nd, 09, 7:40 AM
The drivers side rolls up straight but when it is all the way up the front of the window is higher than the back so the window sits crooked. Also it rolls up very slow but drops like a rock. I'm not sure how to adjust the channel and vent window so that the window rolls up straight. The passenger side drops crooked and hangs up about 3 inches down before it unhooks and rolls down the rest of the way.

Alex

Stalkingbear
Jan 2nd, 09, 10:06 AM
Sounds more like a broken roller to me.... pull the door panel and have a look.

MikeMalibu
Jan 2nd, 09, 10:23 AM
Driver's window uneven: check the front and back stops to even out the window in the full up position. When in the full up position, pull the window up with your hand until it hits the stops. If it is even then, make the tilt adjustment described above. You need to have the weather stripping in place to make the adjustment.

Driver's window up/down: First adjust the vent window tilt and forward position to align with the A-pillar and weather strip. Make minor adjustments from that position to align the side window with its weatherstrip groove. Then adjust the fore/aft position of the window (upper rear guide that runs in the rear channel) to "pinch" the window between the front and rear channels. Adjust the rear channel in/out to relieve any binding (or to add some bind so the window doesn't drop).

Right window: Same adjustments as above. Use the middle channel adjustment to get the window top level. Start your adjustments with the window all the way up and level.

Alex, it took me 6 weekends to get my four windows aligned (including installing the Nu-Relics power window kit). Some of those were full days and some were wasted by trial and error from inexperience. One problem that wasted hours was using a qtr. window to side window weather strip that was too stiff. It would push the side window out of the weatherstrip groove when I rolled up the qtr window. Switched back to the original piece and it worked OK. Then bought every mfr's part until I found a soft one: Metro.

Hope the above helps. Or call me if you need more details.

CapSS92
Jan 4th, 09, 2:22 PM
Thanks for the advice. I spent about 6 hours yesterday messing with it. It is a lot of trial and error and what I can't nail down it is where it meets the vent window at the top corner. I tried adjusting the vent window but it doesn't seem to move very much BUT I think that is where my trouble is at. I replaced the channel felt a while back and I just ordered the Metro seals so I'm gonna remove the vent window to replace the rubber. Hopefully by removing the window I can see if it's hanging up anywhere and I can get some more adjustment out of it so I can tilt it towards the back more thus closing up the gap at the top. The only thing I haven't figured out how to adjust is the side to side adjustment on the lower bolt of the rear channel and the lower screw/bolt on the vent window. Whew, talk about a learning experience. I drained the battery with all the raising and lowering all afternoon. <g>
BTW Mike I hope my car looks as nice as yours when I'm done. If I could find a damn set of front fenders.

MikeMalibu
Jan 5th, 09, 1:58 AM
Alex,

If you haven't replaced all the weather seals around the windows, do so, including the vent windows. I assumed that was done in my suggestions. You should align the vent window first, then align the side window to the vent window, then do the qtr windows.

The vent window gets adjusted off the "A" pillar. Install the roof rail weather seal in it's metal strip (but don't glue it in yet because you may need to move the metal strip in/out as a final alignment of the top of the windows). Adjust the screw adjustment on the vent window until it is aligned with the A piller. I used a plastic tool as a feeler gauge along the A pillar to check for parallel, and also sighted along the door for the in/out adjustment.

Once you have the new vent weather stipping installed, including the run channel in the vent window, and the vent window adjusted, you should be able to get the side window to tuck into the vent window run channel at the top. Use the rotation channel guide (adjustment mid-door) and the front and rear stops to get the side window to tuck in.

The lower bolt on the rear channel and the lower screw adjustment on the vent window affect: binding (or free fall), alignment with the roof weather strip groove, alignment with the qtr window weather strip, and alignment with the sill felts. The rear channel guide also affects binding.

Thanks for the comment on my car. It's apart now... did a frame-off resto. That photo is pre frame-off. I'm about 75% finished with the re-wire, and then I'll be able to drive it again (without the interior). Hope to finish the interior by this summer.

harleythumper
Jan 5th, 09, 3:30 AM
Mike:
Thanks for the information!
I replaced all my rubber including the vent window (Metro) and have spent my unsuccessful hours trying to get all the windows to line up. I'll try your technique