High voltage needed [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: High voltage needed


Dino
Aug 31st, 02, 11:01 AM
I was wondering if anyone else had this problem. I have a 72 454 and it won't even think about turning over if it doesn't have 12.45 volts. Anything less and it done. Is there a way to solve this problem? Are alternators designed to give that much juice? thanks

charbilly2001
Aug 31st, 02, 6:31 PM
My first thought is to tell you to go through your starting circuit and redo all of your grounds with an eye towards refreshing any ground that isn't absolutely shiny clean, rust free and tight from the battery to the starter. After that I would look at the + side of the starting circuit.

Its amazing how much trouble bad grounds cause in all of our cars.

Good luck!

MeanKen
Sep 1st, 02, 6:58 AM
If the cables and connections are ok,look at the starter. With everything normal, it should take around 250 to 325 amps while cranking the engine.
My experience with starters, as well as any other electrical part, is to use ONLY factory replacement parts. Or ACDELCO aftermarket parts. I had several bad cheap reman starters in a row, and finally broke down and bought a starter from the local Chevrolet dealer. It has been faithfully starting my 454 since 1983. Hope this helps.

Dino
Sep 1st, 02, 12:21 PM
I forgot to add one bit of information. When I throw a "jump" from another car on, it fires right up. Could this be a starter problem as well? thanks

JWagner
Sep 1st, 02, 1:08 PM
I think that a check of the voltage at the battery post (not the cable near the post) should be done to see what the voltage is during cranking. If someone else's battery (the jump) will start your car, maybe you have a weak cell in your battery. Perhaps you could trade batteries for test purposes. I chased a problem like this once and ignored the battery because it was new and could not possibly be bad. Bad assumption.

JackV
Sep 2nd, 02, 12:56 PM
I believe a battery in perfect condition should put out around 14.2 volts. Just because your battery does not put out that much does not mean it is at fault -- you have to clean your wire connections and check out your alternator/regulator too. Personally I prefer 90 amp Delco 12si or Powermaster three wire alternators and Powermaster mini-starters. Never buy a rebuilt alternator or starter as you never know what you get. I also tend to use Optima batteries as I want to avoid problems.

Steve S
Sep 2nd, 02, 9:41 PM
What do you mean by it's done? Does it not turn over at all? Does it click? Sounds like you may have the dreaded heat soak problem. If it does not click then you have a problem with the start circuit. The battery voltage will drop during cranking because of the high current draw.

------------------
Steve Strasemeier (70SS 396, Fathom Blue/White Stripes)
My 70SS (http://www.chevelles.com/decoder/about.html)

[This message has been edited by Steve S (edited 09-02-2002).]

MeanKen
Sep 2nd, 02, 11:53 PM
A fully charged battery will have 12.6 volts. With the engine running, it should read around 14.5 volts. A proper load test of the battery is to load it,(engine off), an amp load of half the CCA rating of the battery for 15 seconds. Voltage should stay above 9 to 9.5 volts, and go back to 12 volts when the load is removed.
I would suggest having it checked at a reputable repair shop that has good test equipment. (not a pep-boys, Autozone, etc.) Their testers aren't heavy enough to test one as well as a Snap-on, Matco, etc.
It does sound like a faulty battery.