SWHEATON
Aug 21st, 02, 2:52 PM
My Problem seems to be solved so thanks to all for your help,i tries/tested your suggestion out which lesd me to a solution..
There were 2 things that seemed to cause the car to run hot.
Fisrt was i have a mechanical temp gauge that has the std metal wire lead which i routed from the dr/side head in the stock position through lower portion of the valve cover bracket over the exhaust manifold which turned out to be the wrong thing to do.
I used to run the temp sender wire away from the head/motor not in the stock position over the ex manifold prior to rbld and thought that possibly the meatl mechanical temp sender wire was picking up too much heat from the ex manifold so i re-routed the sender wire away from the exhaust like i was priro to rbld.
This dropped the temp approx 8 maybe 10 deg which was a good thing. The stock sender was electric so the exhaust manifold was not an issue with that setup.
The second thing was the a suggestion i got reminding me that rblt motors do run hotter durring breaking due to higher interanl friction with rings breaking on tight fresh rebores ,etc . After driving the car around for 50-60 miles the temp dropped a few more degrees and now holds staedy at 195-200deg at speeds like 40-60mph so i think that's ok for a big block. If not let me know. I have not got into traffic yet to see how it does with the new clutch fan,time will tell.
thanks.
MOTOR IS A MOSTLY STOCK 69 396 OVAL PORTED' CAST IRON INTAKED/Q-JET & CAT IRON/FLOW MATSER EXHAUSTED STREET SHOW CAR I HAVE OWNED FOR 24 YRS.
I COMPLETELY RBLT THE MOTOR TO THE TUNE OF 4K
AND AM RUNNING THE SAME APPROX MILD PERF CAM AS PRIOR TO RBLD. I WAS RUNNING 10:25:1 COMP PRIRO TO RBLD,NO HAVE FORGED 9:7:1 COMP.
CAR RUNS HOT,UPPON STARTING IT TAKES APPROX 4-5 MINS FOR STAT TO OPEN AND GET TO 180 DEG.
THEN WITHIN ONLY 5-8 MINS (WITH THE HOOD OFF THE CAR ) IT GOES UP TO 210 THEN QUICKLY TO 230 WHERE I SHUT IT DOWN. VERY STARNGE THING IS IT NEVER SPITS ANY COOLENT OUT OF THE OVERFLOW LIKE IT SHOULD AT 230 WHEN I HAVE SEEN CARS DO THIS HITTING 220 AND UP. I MUST HAVE A GOOD SYSTEM THAT WONT LET IT BOIL OVER DUE TO HIGHER PSI = A HIGHER BOIL TEMP. RIGHT AFTER SHUTDOWN WHEN IT WOULD HEAT SOAK TO 240-250 FOR A COUPLE MINS IT WOULD STILL NOT PUSH ANY COOLLENT OUT AND I KNOW THE RAD IT FULL.
* I USED ARP THREAD SEALER ON MY MECHANICAL TEMP GAUGE WHERE I USED RTV PRIOR TO RBLD,IS THERE A HEAT TRANFER ISSUE WITH THE MECHANICAL GAUGE USING THE ARP THREAD SEALER? THE GAUGE WAS FINE PRIOR TO RBLD AND TEMP READINGS WERE NORMAL.
* BEFORE THE RBLD THE CAR WOULD NOT GO OVER 200-205DEG MAX IN THE SAME TIME PERIOD SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY WHILE WORKING ON IT.
*CAR HAS THE STOCK ORIGINAL WATER PUMP FROM 69 RBLT WITH THE SUPPOSEDLY GOOD PUMPING CAST IRON IMPELLER IT CAME WITH. THIS PUMP WAS NOT ON THE CAR PRIOR TO RBLD,A STD AFTERMARKET SEALED POWRE PUMP WAS ON THE MOTOR. IS THERE A WAY TO CHECK/TEST WATER PUMP OUTPUT/PSI ON THE CAR? IT SEEMS TO PUMP THE COOLENT OK OUT OF ALL 4 RAD TUBES. AT APPROX 1500 RPM THE COOLENT WILL PUMP OUT OF THE TUME APPROX 1/2-3/4 OF THE WAY TO THE OPOSITE SIDE OF THE TANK BUT DOES NOT HIT IT IF THAT GIVES YOU N IDEA OF HOW THE PUMP IS FUNCTIONING.
*THE 4 CORE RADIATIOR WAS CLEAN BUT I STILL HAD IT ACID DIPPED AND CLEANED AN THE RAD SHOP SAID IT WAS IN GREAT CONDITION. I REPAINTED IT WITH SPECIAL RADIATOR PAINT FROM EASTWOOD PRODUCTS THAT SUPPOSED TO BE NOT TOO THICK AS TO OSBTRUCT AIR FLOW OR THE ABILITY FOR THE RADIATOR TO DISAPATE HEAT.
*THE FAN CLUTCH IS NEW (STD NOT HAVEY DUTY) AND THE FAN IS A NEW GM 7 BLADE REPLACEMENT.
*FAN SHROUD IS STOCK GM.
*NEW 180 HIGH FLOW STAT WHICH IS SAME AS I RAN PRIOR .
*AS FOR THE INTAKE,I DID RUN THE GM OIL SLASH SHIELD UNDER THE INTAKE AND ALSO USED THE EXHAUST CROSSOVER SHIELDS THAT LIMIT THE EX GAS GOING THROUGH INTAKE TO KEEP IT COOLER FOR MORE HP. I THOUGH DOING THAT WOULD JUST ENSURE ALL THE EX GAS GOES OUT THE EXHAUST TO KEEP THE INTAKE COOLER WHICH SHOULD NOT AFECT ME HERE.
* SAME DIST/ADVANCE ETC.
* SAME STOCK Q-JET.
THIS ONE HAS ME REALLY STUMPED. I HAVE MANY YR'S (30+ )REPAIRING/WORKING ON MOTORS AND EVERYTHING CHECKS OUT BUT THERE IS STILL A PROBLEM.
SCOTT
[This message has been edited by SWHEATON (edited 08-26-2002).]
There were 2 things that seemed to cause the car to run hot.
Fisrt was i have a mechanical temp gauge that has the std metal wire lead which i routed from the dr/side head in the stock position through lower portion of the valve cover bracket over the exhaust manifold which turned out to be the wrong thing to do.
I used to run the temp sender wire away from the head/motor not in the stock position over the ex manifold prior to rbld and thought that possibly the meatl mechanical temp sender wire was picking up too much heat from the ex manifold so i re-routed the sender wire away from the exhaust like i was priro to rbld.
This dropped the temp approx 8 maybe 10 deg which was a good thing. The stock sender was electric so the exhaust manifold was not an issue with that setup.
The second thing was the a suggestion i got reminding me that rblt motors do run hotter durring breaking due to higher interanl friction with rings breaking on tight fresh rebores ,etc . After driving the car around for 50-60 miles the temp dropped a few more degrees and now holds staedy at 195-200deg at speeds like 40-60mph so i think that's ok for a big block. If not let me know. I have not got into traffic yet to see how it does with the new clutch fan,time will tell.
thanks.
MOTOR IS A MOSTLY STOCK 69 396 OVAL PORTED' CAST IRON INTAKED/Q-JET & CAT IRON/FLOW MATSER EXHAUSTED STREET SHOW CAR I HAVE OWNED FOR 24 YRS.
I COMPLETELY RBLT THE MOTOR TO THE TUNE OF 4K
AND AM RUNNING THE SAME APPROX MILD PERF CAM AS PRIOR TO RBLD. I WAS RUNNING 10:25:1 COMP PRIRO TO RBLD,NO HAVE FORGED 9:7:1 COMP.
CAR RUNS HOT,UPPON STARTING IT TAKES APPROX 4-5 MINS FOR STAT TO OPEN AND GET TO 180 DEG.
THEN WITHIN ONLY 5-8 MINS (WITH THE HOOD OFF THE CAR ) IT GOES UP TO 210 THEN QUICKLY TO 230 WHERE I SHUT IT DOWN. VERY STARNGE THING IS IT NEVER SPITS ANY COOLENT OUT OF THE OVERFLOW LIKE IT SHOULD AT 230 WHEN I HAVE SEEN CARS DO THIS HITTING 220 AND UP. I MUST HAVE A GOOD SYSTEM THAT WONT LET IT BOIL OVER DUE TO HIGHER PSI = A HIGHER BOIL TEMP. RIGHT AFTER SHUTDOWN WHEN IT WOULD HEAT SOAK TO 240-250 FOR A COUPLE MINS IT WOULD STILL NOT PUSH ANY COOLLENT OUT AND I KNOW THE RAD IT FULL.
* I USED ARP THREAD SEALER ON MY MECHANICAL TEMP GAUGE WHERE I USED RTV PRIOR TO RBLD,IS THERE A HEAT TRANFER ISSUE WITH THE MECHANICAL GAUGE USING THE ARP THREAD SEALER? THE GAUGE WAS FINE PRIOR TO RBLD AND TEMP READINGS WERE NORMAL.
* BEFORE THE RBLD THE CAR WOULD NOT GO OVER 200-205DEG MAX IN THE SAME TIME PERIOD SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY WHILE WORKING ON IT.
*CAR HAS THE STOCK ORIGINAL WATER PUMP FROM 69 RBLT WITH THE SUPPOSEDLY GOOD PUMPING CAST IRON IMPELLER IT CAME WITH. THIS PUMP WAS NOT ON THE CAR PRIOR TO RBLD,A STD AFTERMARKET SEALED POWRE PUMP WAS ON THE MOTOR. IS THERE A WAY TO CHECK/TEST WATER PUMP OUTPUT/PSI ON THE CAR? IT SEEMS TO PUMP THE COOLENT OK OUT OF ALL 4 RAD TUBES. AT APPROX 1500 RPM THE COOLENT WILL PUMP OUT OF THE TUME APPROX 1/2-3/4 OF THE WAY TO THE OPOSITE SIDE OF THE TANK BUT DOES NOT HIT IT IF THAT GIVES YOU N IDEA OF HOW THE PUMP IS FUNCTIONING.
*THE 4 CORE RADIATIOR WAS CLEAN BUT I STILL HAD IT ACID DIPPED AND CLEANED AN THE RAD SHOP SAID IT WAS IN GREAT CONDITION. I REPAINTED IT WITH SPECIAL RADIATOR PAINT FROM EASTWOOD PRODUCTS THAT SUPPOSED TO BE NOT TOO THICK AS TO OSBTRUCT AIR FLOW OR THE ABILITY FOR THE RADIATOR TO DISAPATE HEAT.
*THE FAN CLUTCH IS NEW (STD NOT HAVEY DUTY) AND THE FAN IS A NEW GM 7 BLADE REPLACEMENT.
*FAN SHROUD IS STOCK GM.
*NEW 180 HIGH FLOW STAT WHICH IS SAME AS I RAN PRIOR .
*AS FOR THE INTAKE,I DID RUN THE GM OIL SLASH SHIELD UNDER THE INTAKE AND ALSO USED THE EXHAUST CROSSOVER SHIELDS THAT LIMIT THE EX GAS GOING THROUGH INTAKE TO KEEP IT COOLER FOR MORE HP. I THOUGH DOING THAT WOULD JUST ENSURE ALL THE EX GAS GOES OUT THE EXHAUST TO KEEP THE INTAKE COOLER WHICH SHOULD NOT AFECT ME HERE.
* SAME DIST/ADVANCE ETC.
* SAME STOCK Q-JET.
THIS ONE HAS ME REALLY STUMPED. I HAVE MANY YR'S (30+ )REPAIRING/WORKING ON MOTORS AND EVERYTHING CHECKS OUT BUT THERE IS STILL A PROBLEM.
SCOTT
[This message has been edited by SWHEATON (edited 08-26-2002).]