i got a two year old paint job which has a few runs in the clear coat. i saw a truck show on powerblock a few weeks back. and they were using a da sander to color sand with. few is a few pictures of some trouble spots. http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj278/monte70car/trunklid-1.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj278/monte70car/quarter.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj278/monte70car/taillight.jpg
from a distance you cant see the spots but when you get up close they jump out at you.

I did my first job on my car last fall. I seen on TV and also was given advice to use a new razor blade to scrape the run down to near the level of the rest of the clear. Obviously you need to be very careful. Then sand with small flat object until level. That's the way I did it anyway. Buffing will smooth it all out to where you may never see it ....unless you get out the magnifying glass in direct sunlight looking at all angles while avoiding shadows, clouds, reflections etc.

Perfect? no, but is there really such a thing as a perfect paint job...and even if there was, how long until the first ding or chip? Where do you call "good"?

I tried a razor blade on some runs and on one it dug in too far and went to the primer, so I quit using those. My best result came with wetsanding with a HARD rubber block and 1000 grit paper to get it knocked down, then 15oo grit, then 2000. Wipe dry often when sanding to make sure you're not get into anything other than the run. Other methods work for other people but that's what worked for me.

As far as color sanding goes, I wet sanded with 2000 grit til I got an even surface (no "shiny" spots between dull areas). It's important to wipe dry often to make sure you don't sand any further than necessary to get that surface. You don't want to sand off any more clear coat than necessary. I tape edges and lightly sand them afterwards VERY CAREFULLY. I also tape them while using the cutting cream. On heavier orange peel areas I sand with 1500 to get it mostly there then finish with 2000. After sanding I use NAPA "Tech" cutting cream on a wool pad with a 2 speed single action sander/buffer on slow speed to get most of the gloss back. Then to get rid of the swirl marks I use 3M Finesse It II on a white foam pad with the same buffer on slow speed. I'm sure the pros have better methods and equipment but this is my low budget home shop method that works well for me. Here's my latest project (will get vinyl top) which I painted and color sanded:

A D/A sander has too soft of a pad to sand out runs. It'll leave the run high and scoop out an area next to it creating a wave. Use a hard sanding block, such as rubber, wood or plastic, and block sand it for the best results. D/A sanders are good for sanding down a paint job before a re-paint to give the primer something to bite into.

Tom

Once the runs are removed as described above you can color sand with a DA and 3m finishing film. Makes the sanding part easy but the buffing will still be a pain!!!:D

NO DA,...but you already knew what I was going to say.......LOL

NO DA,...but you already knew what I was going to say.......LOL

When you're a worn out old fat man like me it's best to use any labor saving device you can!:yes:

I had very good results with the DA/3M finishing film. I had never painted a car before in my life until I did my elky. And yes it has flaws that an experienced painter/bodyman would not have made. But more than one person has asked me how many coats of clear I used. It's single stage urethane, no clear coat. The color sanding took a couple of hours at the most, buffing took almost 2 full days. Hand color sanding would have taken at least 2 more days work.

I wish I had the energy to repaint it and do a better job block sanding the body before recoloring it!!!:sad::cool:

The 2nd picture is most recent and shows Ol Paint's now 7 year old paint job!!!


http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/op2.JPG

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j36/bigjames4xl/DSC00065.jpg