Think I am doing things right. I am following the instructions in a 66 chevelle chassis manual. It states that just rapping on the steering knuckle with a hammer should allowing the ball joint stud to release from the knuckle. Trying to remove Ball joint and upper control arm. Any tricks or suggestions? Thanks.

spray the crap out of it with WD40 or something similar, make sure the nut is on so you don't damage the threads on the balljoint... use a bigger hammer and hit it HARD!!!!

or pick up a pickler fork, and hit it with a heavy hammer. it will sometimes rip the boot though.


aaron

Nothing for me to say,because the las two replies stated just what i was thinking .Also take precautions w coil spring.

Nothing for me to say,because the las two replies stated just what i was thinking .Also take precautions w coil spring.

Ditto... :yes: :yes:

support the bottom control arm with a floor jack, and get a bigger hammer!

I have an eight pound sledge hammer with a tool box length handle for this purpose if the 3 pound drilling hammer won't get it done.

first time I heard this, I thought the guy was kidding. After seeing it done, im a believer. You just need to start with a 3 pound hammer. Leave the nut on the balljoint but loose. Dont hit the nut! your going to smack the side of the knuckle. I think theres a kind of flat spot. if not, just a good hard smack! it should pop right out. Doing it this way, you can reuse your balljoint. Great way to do it if your just changing springs or something. jim

Hit it HARD. I’ve had to hit a 3/4 ton truck spindle so many times my arms were sore from swinging the hammer. It is not uncommon to have hit that thing 20-30 times as hard as you can safely swing the hammer to disengage the ball joint (depending on how good the taper is.)

another trick is to hold a heavy sledge or something similar on the other side of the knuckle and then take a whack. kinda like sandwiching it between the 2 hammers. has worked for me in the past.

Thanks guys, is a pickler the same as a separator? Talked to a guy last night and he said I could use his separator. He also has some heavy hammers.

I am trying to dissassemble the front suppension/steering and clean up all the grease from 40 years this winter. Wanted to check the ball joints and the books say they can be checked by using a torque wrench; but you have to remove them from the hub knuckle.

What I don't understand is how to put upward pressure on the upper control arm and ball joint so it will pop out of the knuckle.

What I don't understand is how to put upward pressure on the upper control arm and ball joint so it will pop out of the knuckle.
Do both upper and lower at the same time (nuts loose, but do not remove) The spring will provide downward pressure on the lower arm. That downward pressure is also pulling the knuckle downward to help you loosen the upper. Often the "shock" of one popping loose is enough to pop the other loose. The lower is typically harder to separate because it's bigger and has more surface area.

If you have trouble, and want more spring-pressure to assist you, you can put a jack under the lower arm, jack the suspension up, then stick a block of wood between the upper arm and upper bumpstop. This will easily get you another couple hundred pounds of pressure working for you.

hey james larson,do you live in st. anthony park? st. paul? jeff,i used to live there..

Live in a little town south of Red Wing. Thanks Derek. Do you mean to put the wedge the block of wood in first and then jack up the suppension.?

You'll have to jack up the suspension, wedge the block in, and then let the suspension down.

The block is to keep the suspension from hanging as low, which keeps the spring compressed more, which puts more pressure on the balljoints. You don't need any pressure "up" on the upper arms, as long as you have pressure "down" on the spindle and lower arm, provided by the spring. :)

Just remember to leave the nuts (loose) on both balljoints while you do this for safety. When they do pop loose, it would get real dangerous if the nuts weren't there to stop it from flying apart and the spring shooting out at you.

If your going to replace the ball joint you can use an air hammer with the V chisel anywhere on the stud (leave the nut on or the spring may pay you a visit) and it will break it loose. You may still need the fork. I have done this on my 68 and it worked real quick. I used the same method to remove the BJ from the control arm. This also works great to remove control arm bushings, they walk right out.

The key is to setup a shock wave to seperate the two pieces. Of course a big hammer also makes a nice shockwave but I have always been worried about beating on the spindle like that. I also broke my foot with a 3 lb doing this so I may be biased.

Or take a long 1/2" coupling nut and a couple of 1/2" bolts and nuts cut just to length so it fits between both ball joints studs nuts loosened and crank them apart!

It's a poor-man's spreader is all that work's like a tie-rod adjuster

pdq67

Sometimes a rap on the spindle beside the ball joint stud with a large hammer will spring them. This is the shop manual method for several cars I have.

As long as you are not going to need the boots, a pickle fork and large hammer will usually do the trick.

you can't out run a coil spring...i don't care what your 40yd times were in high school...ia buddy of mine tried and got beat...badly....second place to a loose coil spring won't get you a trophy...unless you consider a black eye and multiple cuts a trophy:thumbsup:

I have an eight pound sledge hammer with a tool box length handle for this purpose if the 3 pound drilling hammer won't get it done.

Hit it HARD. I’ve had to hit a 3/4 ton truck spindle so many times my arms were sore from swinging the hammer. It is not uncommon to have hit that thing 20-30 times as hard as you can safely swing the hammer to disengage the ball joint (depending on how good the taper is.)
Beating the hell out of something made from CAST IRON is probably NOT the hot ticket. If you leave a mark on the spindle/knuckle, you've hit it TOO DAMN HARD.

Pickle forks are about one step less abusive than just beating the hell out of it.


Or take a long 1/2" coupling nut and a couple of 1/2" bolts and nuts cut just to length so it fits between both ball joints studs nuts loosened and crank them apart!

It's a poor-man's spreader is all that work's like a tie-rod adjuster

pdq67

pdq67 is right on; another way to do it is to borrow/buy a set of front end tools. My local NAPA has a set similar to this that they loan out. I liked 'em so much I bought a set.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200354075_200354075

I always use an OTC Separator. Doesn't damage parts and no banging with large hammers....just clamp in on, tighten it up and off they come with no damage.:yes:

Be sure to leave the ball joint nut with these as well

http://www.nextag.com/OTC-Tools-Equipment-OTC6297-511845493/prices-html

(Looks like schurkey was just ahead of me.)

Beating the hell out of something made from CAST IRON is probably NOT the hot ticket. If you leave a mark on the spindle/knuckle, you've hit it TOO DAMN HARD.

Pickle forks are about one step less abusive than just beating the hell out of it.




Damn, over a decade of experience and at least a few years worth of specialized training from Ford/GM and DCx....now they tell me that both me, every journeyman I know, and the manufactures are all wrong.

I only use a pickle fork if I am replacing the ball joints anyway.

Beating the hell out of something made from CAST IRON is probably NOT the hot ticket.Well then, I guess we're pretty lucky that Chevelle spindles are made of FORGED STEEL. :p

Beat away, you're not going to damage it. :noway:

Well then, I guess we're pretty lucky that Chevelle spindles are made of FORGED STEEL. :p

Beat away, you're not going to damage it. :noway:
Hmmmmm.

The "spindle" (the "axle" that the bearings and seal ride on) is pretty much always forged steel--but the knuckle it is pressed into is not always forged. I'm gonna have to look at the older "A" body knuckles--I thought they were iron; maybe I'm wrong. The "Tall-spindle" B-F-later A-X-etc. knuckles on my 'Camino are nodular iron.

At any rate, I stand by my assessment: Beating the hell out of front-end parts using the biggest sledge available is less than optimum. Particularly when there are other options available at low- or no-cost.

I see the OTC separator is available from Sears for $45and this unit is adjustable up to 2". Sears also has another separator for $20 from KD Tools, adjustable for 2 sizes ( 1 1/8 and 2 1/8 opening). Will either of these work? Both state they are for front wheel drive cars. Thanks.

pickle fork!

I would prefer to not damage the rubber boots as I may reuse the joints. I thought the pickle fork would damage to boots. I just want to clean things up. thanks.

Dereks suggestion worked great. Everything is loose and steering linkage and sway bar have been removed. Now I just have to get the springs out. Any tricks here? Books shows making some sort of bar out of steel to hole the spring in place after removing the shock. Then finish removing lower ball joint and lowering spring.

http://216.178.81.108/forums/showthread.php?t=386527&highlight=coil+spring+install

david

James.

You say you want to check the ball joints. If that's all you want to do, then checking for play is all you need. Because the joints are under pressure by the spring, you can go this route. Use a big water pump plier, grab around the entire joint and squeeze. You will 'feel' the play if there is any at all. If not, the joint is very usable.

When you want to loosen the ball joint, I would advise to use the two hammers method. The trick is that each blow will momentarily deform the outer part, which helps to release the taper.

Rob

Everthing is out and on the garage floor, sway bar, steering linkage, steering box, control arms, springs, & hubs. Everthing will be striped and painted if thats the way it came. New bushings, ball joints, etc. Thanks everyone.

Just to add to this thread even though Jim already got it apart. When you hit the spindle with a hammer to get the ball joint loose. Dont be a pansy. Hit it good and hard. The ball joint will come loose FAR before any real damage is done to the spindle anyways. Ad to that, the fact that you are probably in some sort of layig or kneeling position since the car is (in most cases) on jackstands. So getting a real good strike on the joint wont be like your Babe Ruth with a baseball bat. Swinging a hammer to a small spot on the spindle takes a bit more finesse with the swing of a hammer and because of that, your strikes will be no where near as damaging on a spindle. Spindles have a small pad cast right into the part designed just for hitting with a hammer.

The only time I dont like to hit spindles with a hammer is if they are painted and look nice.