After reading a few threads about ball joint failure and ball joint torque I decided to go back an torque my ball joints to recommended specs. The plan was to pull the cotter pins and loosen the nuts torque and put it back together. Well as I loosened the top the spring pressure was just pushing the spindle right off as the nut went down. I checked the bottom and I had to use a puller to separeate as I think I would have to. I took and magic marker and colored the top ball joint and snugged the nut up pretty good this time with no spring pressure. Loosen and it fell apart by hand and you could hardly see any of the marker rubbed off.

My spindles are off a 67K mile car that still had original ball joints so I did not think there could be a worn spindle problem. I called Macus at SC&C to see if maybe I got a misboxed part. Since I am running a Chrysler bolt in ball joint I thought maybe I got a Chrysler stud unstead of a GM stud.

He was thinking a may have got Gbody studs based on what I was telling him and had me measure some things for him. I called back with the measurement and he said I do have the right Abody stud. He thinks I have a worn spindle and would fix them for me for next to nothing just have to box them up and wait for shipping turn around.

I was about to pull them up to box them up today and decided to check with a couple of other spindles I had laying around. Now I have 4 spindles with the same issue on these ball joints. I decided to pull off the rubber hose that goes on the stud and noticed this. I can slide the spindle up the stud and it easily bottoms out on the step of the stud. See attached picture.

I can't call Macus today so I was wondering if anyone else has run in to this? Is the stud taper machined too short or do I really have 4 baddly worn original GM spindles?

Good luck with this. :rolleyes:

Looks like you read too much........:wacko:

Looks like you read too much........:wacko:

Whats that susposed to mean? Are you saying a ball joint should not seat and be able to come apart by hand? I have never seen a stock ball joint did not have to press apart once it's been tightened. Sorry but I would much rather be over carefull and double check things before the car is finally on the road. :rolleyes:

GH,
A quick way to make sure is to go to your local auto parts store and have them pull out a new original style ball joint for your car. See how it fits in the spindle. If it fits ok, you know the problem is the ball joint. If it is loose, then you have a worn spindle. By the way, I dont know of any good way to "fix" a worn out spindle. At least no method that I would trust my life on.

I think you have the wrong stud. The spindle should not touch that shoulder.

I've seen a few boogered spindles. The holes are visibly trashed, not round, oblong. Sides of holes are not straight. Beat up with metal pushed up around the edges of the hole.

What Bill said, get a stock ball joint, try it and see.

If this vendor is selling an incorrect part I wonder how many he's got out there so far?

Mark answered the same question I posted on Protouring site. Thought I would show what he said here too. Looks like its an easy fix.

You can`t have the wrong studs, we only have the X-tall ball joints gfor GM. They were made specifically for that application and CNC machined to exactly GM specs. They act as a go/no go gauge for spindles. If the shoulder it bottoming out you can chamfer the top of the tapers and restore a tight fit but your spindles are oversized for factory GM specs. It doesn`t matter how many miles they have on them it only matters what the mike reads. It`s not uncommon for the spindle specs to vary,that`s why we mention it in the in the instructions. At any rate it`s a 5 min. fix. Chamfer the holes a bit,confirm proper fit and you`re done. Mark SC&C