HI. What is the problem with headers to close to the starter, and not being able to start the car after a run. I think i might have this problem, and what can be done. Thanks

you have a heat problem
the hedders do fry the starter
u have to swap the starter and then
wrap some heattape around the hedders and/or
a plate between the starter/hedders.
u find that kind of thing advertised
in i think all the major car magazines
MIKE

Thermotec (check ads in magazines for header wrap) and I think Summit have a reflective stick-on tape that works great - stick it over the starter and solenoid facing the headers and you will be good to go.

I had the problem on an 84 Hurst/Olds with headers, lost a starter every few months until I did this, then I never replaced it again.

In the interim, bring a chunk of wood - you can give the starter a short rap with the wood to free it up. Wouldn't do that too often, though.

summit does have heat shields for the starter, theres a thermo-tec one for 22.25 (part # THE-14150)summit also has a chrome metal one for 19.99 (part# SUM-G1370) call'em they'll send you a free cataloge # 1-800-230-3030

Here is a possible solution from Team Chevelle's tech reference section (http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref4.html). I hope it helps.

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Ron Cook TC Gold #1276 ___ ACES #5136
1969 300 Deluxe HTSS396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/bow_tied4.jpg) The L35-325HP 396cid (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/bow_tied3.jpg) 69 Memory Lane (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/bow_tied.jpg) 1971 Malibu 2DR HT (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/bow_tied_71Malibu.jpg)
CanAm Chevelle Club (http://www.canamchevelles.com) _____________"Take my advice, I'm not using it."

I experienced heat soak the day I put headers on my car in 1996 (the first mod I ever made to it). It overheated several times the first day. I thought the shorty headers I had at that time wouldn't have overheated the starter, but I was wrong.

I've had some cars that never had that trouble, but most small-block cars I've had experienced heat soak with headers.

I use the Moroso heat shield and a Ford solenoid to boost amperage. Also make sure you use big battery cables to carry the extra current you need to turn over a hot starter.

Follow the tech ref that Ron referred you to above. Just scroll down the page for the Ford solenoid wiring diagram.

Mine's been starting the engine flawlessly since I installed these items.

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My Web Page (http://www.landry-family.com) (updated 05-22-02)

"Chevellabration Bound!"

Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #4556
'68 El Camino, 357, L31 Vortec heads, 700R4, 8.2 10-bolt, 3.55 gears, Auburn Pro Posi.

I think the key words are BATTERY CABLES Over time alot of resistance builds up in the cables. Replaced them first and see what happens. Probably the cheapest thing to do

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65 Chevelle Wagon
GMPP 350 HO Turbo 350 3.73 Gears Eaton Posi B&M 3000 Holeshot Holley 750DP Comp Cams XE274
Modified Vortec Heads.D.U.I.distributor

My comment is..... why do you guys put up with these antiquated starters that are prone to this type of failure?

Heat soak, as it's called, is a several fold issue. Heating conductors of any type will add resistance to the overall circuit, decrease the current thru the windings of the solenoid and starter, inhibiting their ability to function.

REmote solenoids are okay, but only fix the solenoid issue and somewhat boost the current by keeping heat away, but do NOT aleviate the heat soak problem in the windings of the motor. Even remote relayed starters can fall prey to this heatsoak problem, and they are ugly to boot hanging off the fender somewhere. On top of that, there is no way I am going to wrap my headers, I just don't like the looks and it shortens their lives dramatically.

These old starter motors require toooooooooo much current to operate and this is why the system goes kaaaaaapuuuuuueeeeee when this happens. It's 1920s technology folks.

My point here is that we upgrade the rest of the cars mechanics with new fangled carbs, intakes, heads, radiators, etc, why not upgrade starters to mini starters. They are light weight, take less current, provide more torque, clear exhaust/header issues, easier to install/remove, much easier on the batter and starter wiring requirements, and sound coooooool as all get out.

I will never buy a "boat anchor" starter again.

Do you think I am opinionated enough on this?

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Steve Jack - ConceptOne Pulleys and Brackets / Engineering & Marketing Technologies

[This message has been edited by HOTRODSRJ (edited 05-26-2002).]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by HOTRODSRJ:
Do you think I am opinionated enough on this?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Maybe just a little around the edges. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif



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My Web Page (http://www.landry-family.com) (updated 05-22-02)

"Chevellabration Bound!"

Chad Landry
TC Member #643
ACES Member #4556
'68 El Camino, 357, L31 Vortec heads, 700R4, 8.2 10-bolt, 3.55 gears, Auburn Pro Posi.