It`s finally done! 3 years ago we set out to design a rear swaybar for A and G body GM cars that was properly mounted and adjustable. By properly mounted I mean NOT to the lower arms. Mounting them with links to the chassis has many advantages such as reducing non linear binding when the suspension articulates and allowing much higher effective bar rates with smaller dia. (read lighter) bars. We finally have it how we want it with great ground and exhaust clearance and soft/med/firm rates to tune the suspension. They`ll be shipping the first week in January and all the folks who have expressed an interest or put in pre orders will get the first of them. Thanks for being so patient guys and thanks to Spohn Performance for working with us to make this happen. More pics to come. Mark SC&C

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t119/MarkSCandC/swaybar1.jpg

Hopefully I'm not stepping on Mark's toes, but I just saw this on pt.com and had to post it here.

http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50554

Maybe Mark will chime in on pricing. Is a front splined bar next? I know I'm not dishing out $800 for the other one.

I'm with you. how much? I'd like to see one installed on a frame as well.

i heard somewhere in the $300 range. for all you get, its a great deal.

Tim

Ha! I was just about to post that here when I saw the new thread. You`re faster than I am. We should put you on the payroll! :thumbsup:

I`ll post some installed pics soon. I have some but they`re with the suspension at full droop. You have to see it with the suspension at ride height to get the full effect. We spent a lot of time getting it to tuck up nice and maximize exhaust clearance etc.

Pricing? Yeah I thought $800 was a little steep for that bar too. How about less than half that? The Adj. Rate Pro Touring Bar is $395. :D Mark SC&C

Ha! I was just about to post that here when I saw the new thread. You`re faster than I am. We should put you on the payroll! :thumbsup:

I`ll post some installed pics soon. I have some but they`re with the suspension at full droop. You have to see it with the suspension at ride height to get the full effect. We spent a lot of time getting it to tuck up nice and maximize exhaust clearance etc.

Pricing? Yeah I thought $800 was a little steep for that bar too. How about less than half that? The Adj. Rate Pro Touring Bar is $395. :D Mark SC&C

Excellent! :thumbsup::hurray:

That's a nice bar. There's a guy in Ohio that has been making them for our cars for years. HRpartsNstuff (http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/) He makes awesome parts for A and G body cars. There are some before and after pics of Chevelles launching. What a difference the bar makes.

Swaybar Pics. (http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/products/rearend/swaybar.htm)

http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/images/swaybar/DSC04399w.jpg

http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/images/swaybar/DSC04825w.jpg

Is there a matching front bar set up?


Pricing? Yeah I thought $800 was a little steep for that bar too. How about less than half that? The Adj. Rate Pro Touring Bar is $395. :D Mark SC&C

I am guessing your are referring to the front DSE bar? Or does somebody really make a $800 rear sway bar?

We should put you on the payroll! :thumbsup:

Let me know if you need a advertising/webmaster.

:hurray:

I'll have to order one of these in a month or so once the holiday bills calm down.

Teflon anti-rattle spherical rod ends, I presume?

Man I am going to spend so much money on that site when I get my next car!

:hurray:

I'll have to order one of these in a month or so once the holiday bills calm down.

Teflon anti-rattle spherical rod ends, I presume?


make it someone elses holiday bill - ask for it as a present.

;)

This is good news indeed! Kudos to Mark and Spohn for consistantly being able to bring out products that are affordable and that work!

Thanks guys! We`re so glad to finally have this one in production. :yes:

GK'sGS400, that`s a drage race rear bar. We offer those also but it`s a whole different animal application wise. Drag bars are a one trick pony. They generate ultra high bar rates to make cars like the one pictured launch flat but those rates are much (much MUCH) too high for good cornering performance. The ProTouring bar is specifically designed for performance handling. It also does a much better job than typical bars at the drags, but not as good as a dedicated drag bar.

We offer a good selection of front bars from both Spohn and Hellwig and will have a line of new high clearance tubular bars shortly. Having splined ends on a bar is only a benefit if you have a shelf full of other wall thickness/rate bars the proper length to interchange. Otherwise they work exactly the same as a bent bar,they just cost a LOT more. It`s much more cost effective to select a front bar then tune the cars balance with an adj. rear bar.

stealth71, we`ll keep you in mind!

Gokou, naturally. :) Top shelf teflon lined heims. Mark SC&C

very nice, i will def look into it after i get my 550/150 springs and bilstein shocks...

is this bar solid or hollow? what is the diameter of it?

and i assume that this bar is a big improvement over a LCA mounted bar.


aaron

I'd love to see it installed too. Man do i have a list piling up from sc&c. This kind of performance at prices that no one can beat is amazing.

I can't wait to have a convo about my car with Mark

I like how it appears not to hang down as low as others. What's the solution for brake line clearance?

That's a nice bar. There's a guy in Ohio that has been making them for our cars for years. HRpartsNstuff (http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/) He makes awesome parts for A and G body cars. There are some before and after pics of Chevelles launching. What a difference the bar makes.

Swaybar Pics. (http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/products/rearend/swaybar.htm)

http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/images/swaybar/DSC04399w.jpg

http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/images/swaybar/DSC04825w.jpg


Could you imagine putting your wife or friends in the car and launching from a street light like this?

Could you imagine putting your wife or friends in the car and launching from a street light like this?

Would be cool. I can also imagine the ticket. :D

Marc,
Kudos my friend! It seems as if you have a lot of friends on this site. My experience with SC&C is exactly what I would want, proefssional, honest and considerate of our needs, without the BS of trying to make a sale no matter what.:yes: I have spoke to him on the phone and wondered how he could be able to spend all that time without me buying anything, :confused:but because of that I bought a few parts and will be upgrading my suspension with HIS PARTS. I owe it to him. I guess he is dedicated to his craft and truly loves what he does that's why he develops parts like this sway bar. Lucky us!:hurray:

I want to be the first station wagon with one.

Has anyone installed one of these yet? I'd like to see a photo of the ground and tailpipe clearance - thanks

Has anyone installed one of these yet? I'd like to see a photo of the ground and tailpipe clearance - thanks
Same here...

Thanks for the kind words guys. :) I`ll try and post some pics soon. We`ve had a lot of bad weather lately and client cars tying up the shop. Hard to get our test cars in to take pics when they`re covered in snow and ice and we can`t put nice client cars outside in the slop. Doh. Clearance is in every regard is really good though. Mark SC&C

I have one on my wish list. Should be ordering next week.

They really do exist. Waiting on pics and install.

man that looks pretty good, Someday.. Someday I'll get one

wow.. i like that a lot.. i can not wait to get one


aaron

We`re so glad that these are finally shipping. Just wait until you drive the car with it on! :D The A body bars ship with the end link upper brackets uncoated. That`s done because the crossmember on the G bodys is wide and flat making the brackets bolt on super easy. The A body crossmembers aren`t as flat and can require some shims or washers to sit flat. For the guys who don`t want to do that they can weld them on and Spohn didn`t want folks to have to strip the powder coat off to weld them. Mark SC&C

Here are some pictures of it starting to go in on my '70 over here http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2315258&posted=1#post2315258

Do the end links mount to the frame?

Andrew

They mount to the bottom of the UCA crossmember right next to the frame rail. Mark SC&C

Here are some pictures of it starting to go in on my '70 over here http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2315258&posted=1#post2315258


I just welded up the frame side mounting brackets this past weekend. It's tricky because that horizontal piece of metal (aka the upper controll arm mounting area) is not flat all the way across the width of the frame. Rather, towards the end it curves. This just happens to be the area where the brackts get welded to. I have a bunch of pictures on my phone that I can post if you'd like. I had to build an "insert" to add to the curved frame so the bracket sits level. I also added a piece of angle support on top of the welded-to horizontal cross member to prevent flexing. This was with a bare frame - and I do NOT envy you doing this on a rolling car!

I had to really point the sway bar "up" on the front adjustment hole area to get it to connect to the end links. I am hoping that the car will sit lower (compress the springs some) once the body is back on. But I don't know how much because they are pretty stiff springs from SC&C.

The frame and Strange rear end are getting final paint this week, with re-assembly in the near future. The SPOHN anti roll bar just barely cleared the ford 9" with housing braces! I'm talking like 3/8" on each side!

Hmmm, I ordered mine yesterday. I boxed in my rear crossmsmber when I had the frame bare so mine will be even more fun to work on.

I just welded up the frame side mounting brackets this past weekend. It's tricky because that horizontal piece of metal (aka the upper controll arm mounting area) is not flat all the way across the width of the frame. Rather, towards the end it curves. This just happens to be the area where the brackts get welded to. I have a bunch of pictures on my phone that I can post if you'd like. I had to build an "insert" to add to the curved frame so the bracket sits level. I also added a piece of angle support on top of the welded-to horizontal cross member to prevent flexing. This was with a bare frame - and I do NOT envy you doing this on a rolling car!

I had to really point the sway bar "up" on the front adjustment hole area to get it to connect to the end links. I am hoping that the car will sit lower (compress the springs some) once the body is back on. But I don't know how much because they are pretty stiff springs from SC&C.

The frame and Strange rear end are getting final paint this week, with re-assembly in the near future. The SPOHN anti roll bar just barely cleared the ford 9" with housing braces! I'm talking like 3/8" on each side!

I'd love to see some pictures of this, if you do not mind posting them.

Andrew

I uploaded some to the gallery. These are from my phone. I have some better pictures from an SLR (with flash), but that camera is not with me right now. I didn't take any final pictures from when I cleaned up the welded area better than is shown. But, as it's shown gives you an idea of how much steel you have to "fill in".


There are 5 pictures posted.
This should be the first one:

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showphoto.php/photo/18216/cat/513/limit/recent

It's tough getting in there on a completed car, but I have the same gap.

I heard Spohn has some new brackets coming out that deal with the gap.

I heard Spohn has some new brackets coming out that deal with the gap.

Fabulous. Heaven forbid you make something that works well before you go to sell it. :rolleyes: But in their defense, that'll be a hard fix to make. For my 9" rear, the center chunk is a bit off center, while the bar is symetrical left to right. So I had to scoot my bar over a smidge to compensate. That's why my brackets are a not equal distance from the side rail. Nothings easy I tell. ;)

It`s a shame GM didn`t use a nice flat ended crossmember on A bodys like they did on G body cars. The G body was is easy we just bolt it right on and it fits just like it was a factory part. The crossmembers on A bodys are much tougher to work with because they bend and twist at the rear edge. Bolt on brackets could probably be made but they`d be [complicated and expensive to do right. That`s why Spohn went with the weld on approach. A little welding goes a long way. ;) I like to offset the brackets a bit toward the rear of the car and mount them as far outboard as possible with the links on the outside of the bars. There will be an angular gap on the outboard side that`s easily filled with a small piece of steel and welded up. I talked to Spohn about making the directions more specific and maybe including a precut piece to fit in the weld gap on each side. They`re at least going to refine the directions. Ride height changes the angle of the bars and end links dramatically so they should be installed and set up at true ride height only. Also the axle brackets are clamp on so that they can be rotated front or back to get better end link alignment in the various adj. holes. On factory rears and std. 9" rears that gives us lots of additional adjustment. On some aftermarket rears (huge circle track 9" housings, Dana 60 etc.) the much larger than stock housings may limit the adjustment range of the axle brackets and cause minor fitment issues. If anyone has any problems with their install just give a call and we`ll walk you through it. Hey, if it was toooo easy it wouldn`t be hotrodding. ;) Mark SC&C

If you have the bar and can wait a couple of weeks to do the install, there's a new bracket that solves the A-Body mounting problem. And it's a bolt-on.

What is the width of the holes on the rear adjustable arb from one side of the rear end to the other?

Hi guys new here, was reading through some post seeing how some of your ideas will transfer over to my Cutlass. But I am getting ready to order my sway bar and was wondering if a couple of pieces of angle iron bolted through the front and also the bottom would solve some of this problem. I am curious because I have already powdercoated my frame and don't really want to weld anything else to it now.

Thanks Stephan

It`s a shame GM didn`t use a nice flat ended crossmember on A bodys like they did on G body cars. The G body was is easy we just bolt it right on and it fits just like it was a factory part. The crossmembers on A bodys are much tougher to work with because they bend and twist at the rear edge. Bolt on brackets could probably be made but they`d be [complicated and expensive to do right. That`s why Spohn went with the weld on approach. A little welding goes a long way. ;) I like to offset the brackets a bit toward the rear of the car and mount them as far outboard as possible with the links on the outside of the bars. There will be an angular gap on the outboard side that`s easily filled with a small piece of steel and welded up. I talked to Spohn about making the directions more specific and maybe including a precut piece to fit in the weld gap on each side. They`re at least going to refine the directions. Ride height changes the angle of the bars and end links dramatically so they should be installed and set up at true ride height only. Also the axle brackets are clamp on so that they can be rotated front or back to get better end link alignment in the various adj. holes. On factory rears and std. 9" rears that gives us lots of additional adjustment. On some aftermarket rears (huge circle track 9" housings, Dana 60 etc.) the much larger than stock housings may limit the adjustment range of the axle brackets and cause minor fitment issues. If anyone has any problems with their install just give a call and we`ll walk you through it. Hey, if it was toooo easy it wouldn`t be hotrodding. ;) Mark SC&C

Here are the brackets:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20699&stc=1&d=1241142936

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20700&stc=1&d=1241142936

As you can see, they are bolt-ons, accommodate the wavey OEM cross brace and now allow the heims to be straight up-and-down. The bar ends are also more parallel to the road which allows the bar to hug the diff nicely.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20701&stc=1&d=1241143377

These brackets are prototypes made by Jim Fay and is a complete rethink. I bet even the G-Body cars could benefit with this style. Just take a long look at that second picture :thumbsup: He tells me they will be made of stout 1/4" plate!!

That looks to be a vast improvement. Glad to see spohn getting it right.

Malibru,
Do you have pictures from before you bolted it on? I think I understand how their new bracket adapter looks. It serves to use the more flat portion of the upper control arm crossmember (which is only flat towards the middle area). Even though the end link is outside of the new drilled/mounted bolts, the added plate is thick enough for this not to be a problem.
It looks like the bolt hole for the adjustable link is about 1.5" to 2" lower than mine is, which will lend itself well towards leveling off the rear sway bar. I was confused when I called SPOHN and they said to not adjust the end link and that it was setup for my vehicle.

I knew I should have seen installation pictures before I ordered and installed mine. Seems I missed the bus by a matter of days on this one.

I just hope my upward pointing roll bar is not subject to "Spinning" when under force. Instead of just being pushed down, it will now be pushed "back" as well. I guess I could always build my own end links that are taller than the stock SPOHN ones thereby lowering my roll bar to being parallel with the ground. But those joints aren't cheap... much like my prototype bar wasn't.

pistOlpete: It's not a Spohn piece. It is made by Jim Fay http://www.fays2.net/

BB_Mike: I don't have a preinstall pic. In my opinion, if you move the clevis plate upward more, chances are you could use a double-adjustable heim set-up for easier 3-way adjustability http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/images/swaybar/DSC05284web.jpg and get the bar to lay the way you want it. Haven't tested that though. Why don't you post pics of what you came up with?

BTW: Here is the new Detriot Speed rear bar I just happened to see: http://www.detroitspeed.com/productpages/indproduct/rearsuspensionprod/042201-rear-swy-bar.htm but don't care for the upper L-bracket insofar as load distribution.....

Oh I gotcha I just assumed Jim Fay was doing it for spohn. Either way looks like this is the best option for bolt on so far. Thanks again for the info Steve.

Great thread guy's, good timing for me. :thumbsup: I have my suspension mods good for now (always room for improvement) Added poly body mounts and Currectrac UCA and LCA's this winter. Time for some sway bars. I wanted to stick with an OE type bar in the rear for price and simplicity reasons. Believe this has change my mind. I'm sure many including, myself would love to hear how it performs!
One question about clearance. I could give Mark a call on this. I'm running Baer Street Kit, caliper is in front of the axle, the ebrake cable come out under the LCA. Thought that was kind of goofy, got a good deal slightly used, so, it is what it is. Looks like it might be close! Anyone?
Kirk

I have pictures hosted and thought I had linked to them. must have been the other sway bar thread.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/5638

In my pictures, notice how the center of the roll bar is "forward" of the acxle tubes. I had to do this just to get the links to connect!! I attibuted it to the frame being higher than would be because there's no body on the the car. SPOHN assured me I was doing the welding just for a left to right centering. Which I believed because the upper clevis plate simply couldn't go any further back.

I'll figure it out when the body gets back on. It won't stop me from going, so it's not a big deal for now.

BTW: Here is the new Detriot Speed rear bar I just happened to see: http://www.detroitspeed.com/productpages/indproduct/rearsuspensionprod/042201-rear-swy-bar.htm but don't care for the upper L-bracket insofar as load distribution.....

Mark mentioned to me that there is only 300lbs of load at that point. I'm thinking that the DSE mount, with proper hardware is more than sufficient.

A couple more pics:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20893&stc=1&d=1242226460

Heim needs to be shortened.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20894&stc=1&d=1242226460

Bar wraps diff nicely. Shocks are in. New gas tank [;)]. Next on the list are custom-made lower control arms. Stay tuned.......

Do you know if the bracket is available yet? And is your bar installed with one?

Thanks
Stephan

If you have the bar and can wait a couple of weeks to do the install, there's a new bracket that solves the A-Body mounting problem. And it's a bolt-on.

I'm meeting with Jim Fay next weekend. I'll check status. Mine is the prototype. Anybody notice anything 'peculiar' about the second photo?

Anybody notice anything 'peculiar' about the second photo?
Your gas tank straps are backwards!

The U-bolts are not threaded the same amount between the left and right side?
The passenger side exhaust tail pipe is missing?
Your shocks are blue and yellow? ;)

I was planning on running this sway bar for my car but now I am a little worried it won't fit. I just picked up my currie 9" heacy duty rear end and I didn't realize how beefy this thing is. It appears I have just enough room next to the spring perches to mount the sway bar clamps but not sure if it will fit. Anybody put one of these sway bars on a currie heavy duty housing yet, or know if they will work?

Mike. Fesat your eyes on this:
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/513/0416091304a.jpg

Mine is a 9" with braces from Strange. should be very similiar. I can measure the width of my differential braces if you'd like, but my bar will not go back on for quite some time.

New gas tank [;)].

Nobody noticed the big gap between the diff and tank? G-Body cars have this gap, thus they were the first to get the Watts Link. I'm now running a '69 Nova tank to gain clearance for Fays2 Watts setup http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=275738

BB_Mike - Jim will be having the new mounts soon. With your current mount, maybe a turnbuckle heim set-up would get you the extra length needed to flatten the bar. It's a horse a piece on cost.

If things workout, I'll have the car at Madison & Racine for the Power Tour if you guys want to check it out.

I need to order one of these soon. The car is understeering bad and I want to get it sorted out. Any more word on the new brackets?

Any word on these brackets?

Does anyone know if the rear bar is shipping with the new brackets now?

I haven't recieved the bolt on brackets yet so I just went ahead and welded the bracket that came with them on. The bar fits great on my car and I did notice a difference in the back. Won't know for sure until I autocross. My car is a 70 lemans.

The new bolt on brackets for `68-`72 just came in on Fri. They look great. :) Saddly they will be an extra cost option since they are made by Fays2 and not Spohn. $35 pr. I`d really like to see this type of bracket included with the bar from Spohn but they don`t see it that way. I`m super happy with the performance of the bars though, they work exactly as planned. Others are rushing to copy it but this is still the best working rear A body bar on the market. :yes: Mark SC&C

The new bolt on brackets for `68-`72 just came in on Fri. They look great.Mark SC&C

pictures?

Mark,

Do the new brackets lower the mounting point of the connecting rod - like a drop down extension of some kind? I had a concern with my anti roll bar pointing upward in order to attach to the welded on brackets that came with my kit. I was hoping that everything will line up better/flatter after the body goes back on the frame.

http://www.fays2.net/fays2_watts_link_25_.html

http://www.fays2.net/images/Swaybar%20Bracket%20dimensions%20.jpg

This is a must-have with the Spohn bar. Built like a tank. The Spohn mount bolts onto the slotted holes (pick your level). Levels the bar nicely and distributes the load better. **NO WELDING** Buy it and check it off your to-do list :yes:

well stick me with a hot poker. but they don't appear much lower than the weld on brackets that came with my kit. the upper holes appear to match the supplied weld in bracket as far as distance from the frame goes.

They avoid that curved portion of the frame - that's a plus.

I don't see why they wouldn't work on a 66-67.

BB Mike: Look at Posts 43 & 51. Mounting points are better positioned. Heims are vertical instead of stretched forward. I have since screwed the bottom heims all the way in to level the bar completely. Poke Poke... Poke

Thanks for posting the pic Steve! Mark SC&C

I was doing some homework on sway bars and came apon this thread. I know its a few months old but figured you guys would like some feed back. I purchased the spohn bar for my '70 cutlass. After looking at the frame mounts , with a little fabrication they can be made bolt in.
The bottom one is how they come from spohn. The top is after cutting off the mount from the plate and rewelding it.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/kaz442/70fendertrunkdeck200.jpg
This is a side view. With a little heat, a vise and a BFH you can make it fit the contore of the crossmember
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/kaz442/Copyof70fendertrunkdeck195.jpg
Here is what it looks like mounted in the car
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/kaz442/70fendertrunkdeck197.jpg
This took about ten minutes to do. Why didn't spohn do a little RD to make this a bolt in? Also for those of you running Strange Dana 60s this bar WILL NOT WORK unless you use longer U bolts and add 1" spacers to the rear mounts. Ask me how I know:confused:. If not the bar will hit the rear pumkin and unload the car at launch resulting in total loss of traction. I'm looking to go with the HR bar because with the add spacers and U bolts this bar weighs 15# more then the HR. Hope this helps someone with thier install.
JKaz