Just curious what everyone likes the best. I want to find what cuts the fastest and removes rust but does little to know damage to the base metal?

This is about as good as you can get for rust. As far as damage to the metal, it will warp quarters, hoods, deck lids, fenders and the top if you aren't really careful.

I use it on almost all of my suspension parts and the whole frame. I've been paying about $7 a hundred lbs at the local fleet farm store here in Wi. But I use supplied air when I'm working with it.

I use it on the cowl inside and out, inside and out on the floor and trunk.



http://www.1969supersport.com/sb04.jpg

I have used everything out there. sand, plastic, steel shot, glass bead, walnut shells, aluminum oxide, silicon carbide.

depends what you are tryin to do. glass will remove rust but is not very aggressive to the metal, sand is pretty harsh but works good for heavier rust, plastic will not remove rust.

I've used the different coal slags (black beauty) and some of the other names it goes by, but sand is cheaper. I use the sand in a large bead blaster, a 100 lb pressurized pot and a elcheapo siphon type.

I ruined a nice 70 deck lid, and didn't know it until I was done blasting it with a siphon blaster, so you have to be careful.

I like Aluminum Oxide for Paint and moderate rust removal from steel and cast brackets and components. It does not seem to affect the metal and does a relatively fast job. You must be careful on sheet metal, as with any media, not to linger in one spot too long with the blast pattern. Glass bead is very mild and will remove single layers of paint or very light rust without damage to the base metal. It can be used on pot metal and aluminum with care. Hope this helps.

Thanks so far. Not looking for sheet metal. I am aware of how easy it is to warp sheet metal. I have sand in my outside blaster for large panels.

More looking to use on parts, wheels, ext in a large siphon cabnet. I was reading about a blend of aluminum oxide and glass beads that gets pretty good reviews. Anyone try that?

aluminum oxide cuts fast and you can use a finer grit and still remove rust / paint fairly fast. It does wear out your tips and pick-up tubes faster than glass beads. You do want to be carefull and not inhale any of the dust when opening your blast cabinet, not good for your lungs. One thing to remember if you are painting after blasting, do not blast anything that has grease or oily dirt in your cabinet, it will contaminate the media and you will be blasting oil/grease into the surface of your parts that will cause you problems when you paint.

I used 70 grit sand to blast my inner and outer fenders, hood and trunk lid, so far. All are covered in black epoxy primer with no warpage. For the frame and control arms I'll probably use a bigger grit.

If you DA most of the crud off first it helps a ton. I used 40 grit discs.

I use 80 grit glass beads in my blasting cabinet....works great for removing paint/dirt/scale/light rust, but will not take off heavy rust. It leaves a lightly "frosted" looking finish on metal, great for painting and not damaging the surface. I have been using the same beads for 7 years now (intermittant use), and it seems like glass beads last longer than some of the other medias.

As long as the questions are flying about blasting, I need to do my car while on rotisserie....would siphon or pressurized be better and why?