I can buy an ls1 with everything form harness to the accessories and fuel rails for 500 dollars. My question is how much will this swap cost with the mounts,headers, fuel system, oil pan, and other costs? Is the cost worth it or should I just stick with a first gen 383 because I am currently running a carburated 350 and have everything for the 383 swap. Help me make my decision.

I would say go LS1 but it is not a simple swap. Man that's a pretty sweet deal on a LS1 though and it would off set a lot of the cost.

If that motor has reasonable miles/is in good shape that is a killer deal. The swap can be done for a couple grand if you do everything yourself it just depends on how much you wanna do. The most expensive thing besides the engine/tranny is headers which are around $500 depending on which ones you buy. You can do all the wiring yourself its not that bad and it will save you some money.

I'm sure I can do all of it myself but am not sure if the trade off is going to be worth it. I am mostly worried about the fuel tank/pump and I already have a 700R4 and not sure if I could still use my relatively new tranny or if I have to shell out extra for a 4l60e. Is there accessory brackets that relocate the A/C compressor or is notching the frame no choice to run A/C?

Great price on the engine swap!

You can use your existing 700R4 if you want to, it will bolt up, but may need a shim adapter kit (I think they are available from GMPP).

The harness can be modified (I have a few good used ones if you need any) so that will save you some $$.
The fuel tank will be kind of spendy, but well worth it to get an intank pump when you are all done. You can use a stock tank to save $$ and even make it appear stock from outside. Check with www.rockvalleyantique.com (http://www.rockvalleyantique.com). I have gotten quite a few tanks from them.

If you cant find one anyplace else in a style you want, I sell the A/C compressor relocate kits (and build them).

Good luck, and keep us posted! :)

Steve

Just wondering about the shim adapter kit, Isn't the 700R4 the same bolt pattern as a late model 4l60e?

Do you know the origin of the engine or heard it run? Thats a pretty low price for a good running LS1.

It's a friend of a friend. He has seen it run and says it runs good and that he is just selling because he is uprgrading to LS2 but I to have my doubts. If it sounds to good to be true it probably is.

I only ask because there is some major scammers out there selling LS stuff and I was involved on a bad deal. With the economy down, you have to watch out even more.

I'd love to have the power, performance, efficiency, and reliability of an LS1 in my Chevelle. I also have a 2001 Camaro SS and I find myself driving it a lot more than my Chevelle for all of those reasons. Granted I love the looks of the old stuff more though.
I'd go for the LS1 if it is indeed a good motor.

Also, if you do the LS1 swap, please at least re-locate the coil packs to the firewall or something. They are great engines, but they are ugly all cluttered up from the factory.

Go here for more info than you could ever read about LS1s and dropping one in your Chevelle:
http://www.ls1tech.com

Specifically for transplants see the Conversions & Hybrids section:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids-28

I am using a 700r4 behind my LS1 you will need a crank spacer and some longer flywheel bolts but they can all be had from GM. I also had to do some fabricating to get the TV cable setup to work. As far as fuel tanks go there are a few different options:
1) Mod your stock tank with an tanksinc kit(www.tanksinc.com) which is what I did
2) Use the tank from a B-body impala which is a bit larger and require some mods to the trunk pan (probably the cheapest option). This tank does have internal baffles as well.
3) The rock valley tank $$$$
4) Or what I would consider the best option a Spectre tank from rockauto.com for $448.79+search google for an additional 10% discount. This tank is stock appearing from the bottom but contains an in tank pump and baffles.

Just wondering about the shim adapter kit, Isn't the 700R4 the same bolt pattern as a late model 4l60e?
The bellhousing to block bolt pattern is the same, but LSx engines use a deeper mounting flange on the block where the trans bolts up. Therefore, you need spacers/bolts etc for the flywheel to connect.

Check on rockauto.com to see if they carry a Spectre EFI tank for your car. They run about $500, less if you get a discount, but are complete with a pump and correctly designed reservoir.

For $500 you could buy it, tear it apart, and see what it needs. You could re-sell it for more if you decide to, but they are really nice engines. Traditional SBC are like a Timex. LS series engines are like Rolex. If you do decide to buy it get everything that you can: Accessory drive system, ECM, wiring harnesses, EVERYTHING. And, throw nothing away until the build is complete, even the wiring that you will gut from the harness.

They can be made to look a bit better with some ingenuity. Here's mine.

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/8507/img0119jpgzu5.jpg

I really found all of this information helpful and really think I am going to take the plunge and go for it. I just hate not driving my car and I know the ls is going to take some time.

The biggest advice I could give you to prevent downtime is to do the research and get every part you can think of ahead of time. If I would have had all the parts/money for my swap when I started I could have gotten it done in a few weekends.

The biggest advice I could give you to prevent downtime is to do the research and get every part you can think of ahead of time. If I would have had all the parts/money for my swap when I started I could have gotten it done in a few weekends.

agreed. I wasted time fighting parts that didn't fit and stuff like that. I have about $2500 in the swap, but a lot of that was wasted because of getting scammed on parts and other stuff. I modified my own fuel tank for $20 and added an external pump.

headers are the most expensive single piece at $600

harness is easy to do yourself, make your own motor mount adapters for like $10

its definitely worth it! making over 400hp crank, 25 mpg+ on the highway, starts every time, adjusts itself for temp/humidity/ect

I would never go back to a traditional sbc...ever

Do yourself a favor though and cam it while its out...not only will it give you more power without sacrificing anything, but it will also let you look over some of the internals, for instance the stock cam in mine was junk...I would have cranked it over only to hear noise the first time if I hadn't did the cam swap. While your in do the oil pump ($120), pushrods ($110), and timing chain (ls2 chain for $40 or less) for added insurance.

LS1 is rocking these days. Can't wit to fire up my LS1 in my 67' nova. I was a Gen I guy, but can't beat today's technology....

I loved my car before, but I've already gained over 50rwhp and 3mpg and tons of convenience. Will be even better once I get a decent tune and the ls6 intake...after that I should be pushing 370rwhp in a daily driver that's less temperamental than my old ~320 crank hp 355

Do yourself a favor though and cam it while its out...not only will it give you more power without sacrificing anything, but it will also let you look over some of the internals, for instance the stock cam in mine was junk...I would have cranked it over only to hear noise the first time if I hadn't did the cam swap. While your in do the oil pump ($120), pushrods ($110), and timing chain (ls2 chain for $40 or less) for added insurance.

Do others agree with this?

How many miles were on your engine? Maybe all those problems were why you got it for $500.

reportedly had 40k miles

the engine and transmission were $2000 together, not sure where it said 500? the cam swap isn't necessary, but if you're like most of us you'll want more power later anyway...I wanted to do it while it was easy, there wasn't anything wrong with the pump, chain, pushrods, ect...they are just standard things to change while doing the cam as preventative maintenance since they are "weak spots" and you'll have them off already

Sorry, thought your were "neverendingchevelle" the first poster.

If you replace the cam (or even if you dont), ALWAYS upgrade the valve springs. The stock ones wont take over revving, and they sure wont work with a different cam. The cams dont go bad (have never seen one yet that was bad), but while the engine is out, you may want to throw a camshaft and a set of heads on it for more hp. If you are ok with the stock hp, then at least just replace the springs, and maybe the oil pump with an LS6 part.

You will need to replace the oil pan to clear the frame.
You can use stock exhaust manifolds for now to save $$, and upgrade to some headers later.

yeah for springs the PAC brand are what I got, they used to supply comp cams their 918 springs

i also did pushrods and ls6 oil pump

my cam was definitely bad...has 2 wiped lobes, which might have been caused by weak factory springs and overrevving...the stock springs only had about 75-80 lbs seat pressure when my head guy checked them (my PAC replacements have about 130lbs)

wouldnt softer springs create less damage as too a harder spring to push down/ more stress on cam lobes? but im no tech......

from what I gather it causes the lifter to impact the cam rather than ride on it