So I'm sure this is possible. I have a 72 chevelle, and I have a disc brake conversion kit for the front....but how would I convert the back and what size booster would I need for efficient braking power(has a 413cid BBC with performance parts)

Derek69ss has a post somewhere about 4-wheel disc brakes on a Chevelle

Heres a good place to start:
http://www.classicperform.com/

Heres a good place to start:
http://www.classicperform.com/

I ordered my kit from them, the big brake kit, and it is quality stuff. I think it's more for looks really, it dose not brake much better than a good quality disc/drum set up dose. I do like it, but won't go the trouble and expense again.

I want to get a front disc w/ drop spindles set up from them for my 66 Impala.

Ohh thank you so much for that link...but will I have to change anything on the rear end or no.

Unless you want:

A) Bragging rights...
B) To stop from 100 mph to zero over and over and over...
C) To run 20" wheels to showboat your huge calipers...
D) To spend money...
E) To have a big project...

... don't bother converting your rear drums to discs. I had rear discs in my car, though it was the s*&t, changed the rear end to one with drums, was going to convert that to discs, then decided "no" as I could tell no difference. I've had plenty of panic stops in traffic and the stock front-disc/rear drum combo worked great. No crashes or fender benders.

Front disc brakes -- absolutely.
Rear disc brakes -- only if one or all of A-E above apply.

Right!

Install a stock rear 11" big car drum brake upgrade instead!

I have tried HARD through the years to find out WHAT spindles were used on the '65 Z-16 Chevelles that had 4 wheel 11" drums to no avail!

Imho, 11" drums are lighter and stop faster THAT 1st time over stock front discs is all!

pdq67

its not so much about panic stops. almost any combo can lock the tires up or bring a car to a stop. its more about the feel and the amount of heat that disc's can take. theres a reason that race cars run disc brakes.

with that said, if its a dd, i wouldnt worry too much. if its a street warrior with any handling in mind, id contact tobin at Kore3.com for some good options.

Tim

I converted my rear drums to disk and swapped in a 9" Moser at the same time, brakes were from Wilwood, 9" booster. I could tell a big differance, car stops better and does not nose dive on hard stops.

If you don't need an emergency brake (like me... flatlander w/ Automatic) you can do the rear discs for about the same price as rebuilding your drums.

If you shop around, you can find used setups from Camaro/Trans-Am for very cheap... just resurface the rotors (if they're within specs) buy new pads, and spend some time figuring out how to hook the emergency brake cables up. :cool: I've bought 98+ LS1 F-body complete setups for under $200, and older 3rd Gen Iroc setups for ~$100. They'll bolt onto your stock 10 or 12-bolt rear end, but you'll have to verify that they'll fit your wheels, as those cars came with 16"+ wheels factory.

I ordered my kit from them, the big brake kit, and it is quality stuff. I think it's more for looks really, it dose not brake much better than a good quality disc/drum set up dose. I do like it, but won't go the trouble and expense again.

I didn't get the big brake stuff, but I am in no way impressed with how my 59 stops with a 4-wheel disc setup.
Granted---big heavy boat with a BBC, I have been considering returning to drums----probably the big drum package I have seen listed in a couple of catalogs.

4-whl disc is NOT EVEN being considered for the 66.
Gonna be hard pressed to even put discs on it for a while.
But, I have changed it to a 67 brake system with dual resevoir and separate circuits----'cause it will be a daily driver after paint and reassembly

Stock 4 wheel drums..

I will tell you what!

My '67 1st Gen. Camaro car was down-right scary hauling her down from 80!

I'd start downshifting, the rearend would reverse slap my slappers and bounce around as the wife was screaming at me to get her STOPPED!!

I wanted to open my door and drag my foot, it was that bad!!

No more a that crap b/c of my now "pdqCBB" 13" and 11.75" disc's!!

In all fairness tho, it mighta been my stock D-70's on the front and my 9.50-14 mud & snow tires on the back?? (25.3" to 25.5" and 29.5" tall tires)...

pdq67

I run Willwood disks (Superlights) on all four corners. I am one of those who want's to stop (well slow down to 30 mph or so) from 100 mph at least 28 times in a half hour (sometimes, at the end of the day when there are open track periods I have been out for 40 min instead of 20 min).
Do the Willwoods work? Yes, they are fabulous! Can I make them overheat? Yes, if I use street pads. If I switch track pads I can keep going and going and going...

My rear end ia a Currie 9" Ford that was made to holds the correct brackets for the rear discs (which has an integral emergency brake). I have Global West front suspension so it was made for the Superlights. I don't think they make it anymore, at least it is not on their website.

One of the things to consider is that if you go for a real good disc (rotor) you are probably in the 12.75 top 13 inch region. By the time you get a good 4 or 6 piston fixed caliper (I would not use a floating caliper) you will need 17" or larger wheels.

I agrre with some of the previous posts that if you go with stock disc set up that GM sold with the car as an option that there is not that much difference between drums with ceramic shoes and normal discs.

I have not looked at the combination of a Red Devil rotor and stock discs though. That might work real well but is very expensive.

http://www.reddevilbrakes.com/page/page/1001014.htm



Ron

Bryan59EC: My 66 has four wheel manual drums, single mc.

When you put the dual mc on yours, did you add a proportioning valve, or just install the mc and connect the front and rear to the new mc.

Any details of what mc and pushrod, etc would be appreciated.

I would like to do the front disc convesion, but for now, is will be easier, and less expensive right now to upgrade the mc and just rebuild the drum stuff.

Thanks.

Ron,
Surgically removed the master, valve and lines from a 67 donor car.
Went ahead and bought new lines anyway.
Bought the front lines for a 67 SS----(just in case the 454 in my garage makes it into 'mousey'.
Also got the lines for a power brake system----should just be a little bending to go on w/o the booster.

Not completely there yet----but I am sure I will find out if I screwed up somewhere.
The front to rear line is in----the valve is in, but nothing else at the time. Only put those on 'cause it was easier w/o the body on the frame.
When the front lines get here (S/B this coming week) I can put the car on a hoist to make that installation go easier.

If you don't need an emergency brake (like me... flatlander w/ Automatic).....

We call 'em emergency brakes, but they're really parking brakes aren't they? I don't know about other states, but they're required in Washington, and the paragraph about parking brake in the Washington motor vehicle code is as long as the one about the service brakes.

My $0.02

The LS1 Camaro rear is really the hot ticket.

We call 'em emergency brakes, but they're really parking brakes aren't they? I don't know about other states, but they're required in Washington, and the paragraph about parking brake in the Washington motor vehicle code is as long as the one about the service brakes.

My $0.02Any car with an automatic around here more than 5-10 years old doesn't have working E-brakes anyway... cables get rusty and freeze up from never being used.

I can't remember EVER using the e-brake on an automatic car for anything other than 180s on ice. :D

That's NOT the point!

It's the Law we have to have WORKING e-brakes is the point!

And I don't know if State Safety Inspectors will pass brake line, "one-wheel line locks" or a small rearend, "front of the pumpkin mounted", driveshaft rotor/puck cable e-brake kit or not??

pdq67