Greetings all! I just replaced the center link, idler arm, and inner & outer tie's on my 67 Velle. The first thing I noticed is that, with the driver side tire pointing straight, the passenger tire points inward some. Ok, I assume it's just an alignment issue however, when I turn the steering wheel all the way to either side, the inside of that corresponding tire hits the sway bar (or is it called the stabilizer bar?) In other words, it's over steering. Will a wheel alignment solve this problem or have I installed something incorrectly? I did count the number of turns on all the inner & outer tie's on the old and the new to match. I appreciate all your answers

it sounds like somthing could be in wrong, I remember a few years ago I did somthing wrong on my brothers 57 chevy, and the wheels looked like that i believe it was the idler arm

But the idler arm can only be installed one way

it sounds like somthing could be in wrong, I remember a few years ago I did somthing wrong on my brothers 57 chevy, and the wheels looked like that i believe it was the idler arm

How wide are your tires? The tires on my coupe rub the sway bar slightly at full lock. Also, aftermarket sway bars don't curve to the inside as much as the originals which puts them closer to the tires too.

Their just standard 14". But your telling me this is normal for them to rub? BTW, the bar is the original stock one.

How wide are your tires? The tires on my coupe rub the sway bar slightly at full lock. Also, aftermarket sway bars don't curve to the inside as much as the originals which puts them closer to the tires too.

Adjust the tie rod length to get both wheels facing straight ahead and get the car to the front end shop. Did you match the length of the new assembled tie rods and sleeve to the length of the originals?
Mike

I did not think I had to match the length since the parts are for a 67 chevelle. The brand are McQuay-Norris. All I ever hear is to make sure you count the turns.


Adjust the tie rod length to get both wheels facing straight ahead and get the car to the front end shop. Did you match the length of the new assembled tie rods and sleeve to the length of the originals?
Mike

nah, counting the turns won't necessarily work. the new parts could easily have a different unthreaded length, before the threads start. just set/lock the steering straight ahead, adjust the tie rods until you sight down the insides and see the same amount of rear tire on both sides. Do a sanity check look-see, if they look reasonable straight you can drive it an alignment shop OK.

do you have an old-time alignment or frame shop in your area? use it if there is. the kids working the chain stores usually don't know much of anything about our cars. THis toe set job needs to start with centering the steering box and steering wheel, then adjusting the tie rods to get the proper toe-in.

Thank you sir!


do you have an old-time alignment or frame shop in your area? use it if there is. the kids working the chain stores usually don't know much of anything about our cars. THis toe set job needs to start with centering the steering box and steering wheel, then adjusting the tie rods to get the proper toe-in.

Tom, you were right on the money with that one. The new vs old tie's were diff in size. I adjusted them as you said to and that took care of the wheels touching the stabilizer bar. Thanks again man!!!!


nah, counting the turns won't necessarily work. the new parts could easily have a different unthreaded length, before the threads start. just set/lock the steering straight ahead, adjust the tie rods until you sight down the insides and see the same amount of rear tire on both sides. Do a sanity check look-see, if they look reasonable straight you can drive it an alignment shop OK.