Harold,

Looking at a couple of Lunati Hydraulic Rollers for High Performance street. 3100 lb car, 454, 4spd,(May switch to a Richmond 5spd) 3:73 rear end, Aluminum Oval Port/or Rectangular heads, 10 to 10 1/2 to 1 comp.
Need to work power brakes. Would like good "chug" type idle maybe with slight lope, very streetable, would like to keep away from "extremely radical" type cam, as car will be a driver. Looking at the following:

50249 232/242 .578/.595 112LSA
50268 234/244 .575/.575 114LSA
50269 234/244 .629/.612 114LSA
or 50250 242/252 .595/.612 110LSA

Can you help, as to which would be the better choice?

Thanks

DJ :confused: :confused:

Mike,

See you didn't get an answer yet, so this response will at least keep the request current. But for comparison, when I was first looking into a Hyd Roller, I was told to keep the overlap @ .050 to a max of 10 degrees and preferrably to 5 - 6 max for a smooth/good idle. I had originally planned to run a 282/288 roller (228/238 @ .050 on 112LSA). If / when I go back to a hyd roller, I will probably keep the intake duration @ .050 to 220 - 224 and the LSA at 112 or 114. In fact for a street 454 with a smooth idle and power range from idle to say 5500, I doubt you would need a roller with anything over 220 @ .050. Even though they make the hyd rollers plenty big, other than gaining a smoother idle quality and increased torque, the hydraulic part of it kind of defeats the purpose of a roller in the first place. And to lay all doubts about valvetrain weight aside, the hyd roller retrofit lifters are "HEAVY". I know they (cam manufacturers) list the RPM ranges up to 6500 RPM range, but I could not see the practicality of these for anything over 5800 - 6000; 5500 to 5800 is probably more practical unless it is a real low lift version.

[ Note : IMHO only - hopefully UDHarold or someone with real expertise or plenty of past experience running these will respond ].

Just add one rev kit to get it to rpm...

I assume???

pdq67

I always get bashed for bashing HR for hipo use, but agree with everything GRN69 says. Great cams if you're looking for near stock performance with alot more oomph. You'll never use the potential of the rect port heads with the type of cams you're looking at, stick to ovals,, and try and keep your LSA to 112 or LESS. Preferably less. Of the bunch I like the first one you list, but if you could shave 3-5 degrees of duration off and then do it on a 110lsa, I'd like it even more.

I use an Ultradyne hyd roller with the retro lifters.
Single pattern 233@.050 .625 lift 109 sep.
I shift 1-2 at about 5800 rpm, 2-3 from 6000-6200 rpm.
Trapping around 6000-6100 rpm have been 6500 rpm on a few occasions, the higher rpms didn`t help.
.................................................
The 534" I put together and tune for my best friend sports an Ultradyne also.
255@.050 .650 lift 110 sep single pattern.
Same shift points basically but trapping alittle higher at 6400-6500 rpm.
Rect port, 10-1 comp motor.

With a best to date of 10.19 ET @ 131 MPH With 3.73 gears and weighing in at 3750 lbs w/driver what`s to argue with performance like that?!


BTW, this is a true street driven vehicle, no trailor (don`t even own one)
And for those interested, spring pressue is about 130 lbs on the seat. Shouldn`t have any wear issues at that rate. smile.gif

Hyd rollers are way under rated and the detractors of such are mostly going on hearsay and myth. They most definetly have their place graemlins/thumbsup.gif

BTW...No rev kit!!

BigRed,

Not wanting to fuel an argument, but I sincerely doubt that either of the cams you mentioned would fall into the limits of streetable as defined by the original post - chug chug idle / power brakes / not radical. In either scenario that you described, a flat tappet solid would perform equally. Not knocking hyd rollers, they are a great leap in application of technology, have one home on the shelf, waiting for the winds of amibition to blow in and get me off my butt to throw it back in the car, but step that 534" motor up to a solid roller approaching .700 lift and hold on.

It's all about where someone is headed with their combo. For a basic 2500.00 engine freshening up, the extra 600.00 - 700.00 is a fair amount for the nominal performance gain. Now, a 8000.00 - 10,000.00 budget is another story and that extra 700.00 doesn't mean a whole lot. The other issue is useable power. Hyd. rollers will increase torque across the board, but the chassis has to be set up for it. My guess is your low 10 second car is not running power brakes or A/C.

No power anything, true, but the cam I`m using in BigRed would fit well within his requirements.

On the solid vs Hyd deal I`ve yet to see a comparison to sway me.

Are you saying toss in a .700 lift solid and we`d be in the nines??

We`re pretty close now if you factor lash in (.675 or so for the solid vs .650 now)

Years ago ( many years ago - like around '81-'82) I bought a '67 Chevelle that was an ex SSJA car. We bought a used 427 / 425 motor, ran everything from big solids to rollers,whatever we could scrounge at the time (tight budget - read no money = used parts) and ran in brackets. Ran mid 11's consistent, was a good money car. Eventually bought a 454 LS6 motor ( again well used ) and ran it with solid flats. Ran 11.10's - 11.20's. Not bad considering the limited resources and parts of the day,mainly the factory GM Rec Port Iron Heads. Finally went to a solid roller (again used) - dipped to 10.90's. Eventually sold the car and quit racing when the family came into the picture.

PS : By the way the '67 was an original SS396 car still had the matching numbers motor with it. Other than a rollcage, the Red interior was still intact and the car only had about 10,000 miles on it before it was turned into a SSJA car in the early '70's. Who knew?

No matter how you look at it, solids are more agressive than hydraulics. With a 534 incher, there is probably a lot more left on the table by running hydraulics.

Good luck!

Hey guys,

I guess I am trying to walk a tight line here. Trying to get in the 525-550 Range hp wise with a good flat torque curve. (Asking for too much here?) Yes, this car will be a driver, and I want definatly more than stock performance here but also don't a want a car that sounds like a top fuel dragster either. Good solid, thumpy, type idle and if there is a slight lope, so be it, I can live with that...just not extremely radical,to where I have to wear ear muffs while I'm driving so that I can't drive it on the street or take a trip in the thing. I do also appreciate the advice on the oval heads as well and am hearing this more and more as far as street use is concerned. So that helps in one category. I really appreciate the input from all. Bring it on, trying to do it right the first time!

Thanks

Mikedj