I have doubt about what's really the best combination for a good high performance big block engine. I've looked and read and get all sorts of ideas, but I'm stuck in planning stages still wondering what's for me. I built a 350cid a couple years ago and she's pretty tricked out, but you know how HP is... always gotta have more! I was thinking about a 540 for some time before I ran into an article in Chevy High Performance Magazine on 7 hot engine combos (8 in fact). One that I was obviously most interested in was an UltraStreet 540ci RAT that peaked at 690TQ and 785HP! :eek: Here's a more in depth link:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0308_combo/index8.html

Check out the specs and see what you think. I'm still planning so I'm trying to get all the insight I can. Yes it's my project and I can do whatever I desire because a man's hotrod is individual and personal :cool: , but as far as matching up parts that work well together and also quality is a big issue when spending this much money on an engine. I could build 3 or 4 small blocks for the sum I'll be putting into this project. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks for taking a peak! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I dont care for the combo for a street/strip engine. But it definitly makes a lot of power. So if your really radical on the street, or just want a good strong drag engine, then it looks pretty good. Mainly the question is what are your intentions for the engine/vehicle. And vehicle weight, gears, trans, etc all play a big role.

I'm looking at the same enging for my daily driver. j/k graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Bryce,

That 540 might be too wild for a street driven car. I picked up a shortblock from Shafiroff and topped it with some AFR 315cc Rectangular port heads. For a cam I'm running a Comp Cams solid roller--254/260 @.050, .660/.666. And I have a Dart single plane intake manifold. I know somebody else has the same cam for their 540 and it does really well. I plan on running mine almost exclusively on the street. I can't say enough good things about Shafiroff. Really good people.

Not daily driver by all means, but I don't want to turn her into a drag machine. Just have to be faster than the guy in the other lane without building a new and bigger engine every year! Why do you not like the combo? I guess octane has to run through your vains to be into the big boy stuff. Thanks for your thoughts. I'd like to take a look at some other combonations or things you guys have thrown together. :rolleyes:

Thanks ben! You posted right before I hit "add reply!" Great stuff! Do you just buy online from Shafiroff? You're probably right about being too wild for a street rod. How much HP are you pushing have you dyno'd it or ran a G-tech or anything to get 1/4 mile time? I like to go up to the Firebird raceway here in Boise, ID and I run in the high 13's with my little 350. Does pretty good and it's great on the street. Just want more power though and to be able to shake the windows off the house when I fire her up. That's what hooked me on rods when I was little. Thanks for the reply. I'll look into Shafiroff! graemlins/waving.gif

Great motor, the only draw back is the cam, pretty radical for the street in terms of spring pressure. It will be a little tough on lifters, probably less than 5000 miles and they will need replaced. If you are not familiar with the perils of solid roller cams on the street get educated before you buy a motor with a solid roller cam. Other than that it is a kick ass motor. If it were mine I would want a little more compression ie, 11 to 1 and I would add a little lead.

I have a buddy that has one of Shaffirofs 540, 690 hp motors and it has run flawlessly. High 6's at over 102 in a 4000 lb Velle.

Originally posted by 69 Ratt Vette:
Great motor...If you are not familiar with the perils of solid roller cams on the street get educated before you buy a motor with a solid roller cam. VERY good advice. I did a lot of research on street solid roller life, especially on this site. Lots of good info. Isky Red Zones are a MUST!

Yes, I want to go roller rockers and lifters. Thanks for bringing that up. I'm curious as to your buddies engine setup he got from Shaffirof?? I'd like to know more about it if you have the specs or can get them. Thanks guys! Great stuff!

Malibu_man 72, That engine probably will make in the neighborhood of 750 H.P. in the car but most 72 model Chevelles are more like 3650 lbs. plus the driver making your running weight about 3800-3900 lbs. the engine will weigh 125 pounds more than the small block that you have now and the simulations are always optimistic about what it will run as the air quality is seldom ideal, except near sea level. Go weigh the car now and see what it is with you in it. P.S. The 2 1/4" headers are too large until you make about 850+ H.P. and good 2 1/8" headers are made for your car by Hooker and some other companies. Expect low 10s @ 136-137 with this much weight as a realistic result, 140 will probably require 800+ H.P.

Thanks for the info! Were you referring to the Ultra street 540 695HP engine by sheffirof? I've weighed my car with how it is now. I'm right at 3,500lbs with me in it.

Here's my combo....as for streetability...well thats to be determined ;) but I do plan on putting it on the street if I can keep it quiet enough. All this is underway and not yet completed, so I have no performance data or real world driveability information.

Steve Schmidt 540 long block assy.
dart tall deck block, callies crank, oliver rods, coated JE blower pistons, AFR 357 cnc heads, comp solid roller, jessel shaft rockers, crower .903 lifters w/HIPPO (same design as isky red zones).

Induction: ATI F3C blower, Accel Gen 7 DFI, Dart intake (4500 carb flange), Wilson elbow, 95 mm throttle body, 160 lb injectors. No intercooler, but is a possibility in the future.

Tune up will be done by Pan Handle Performance. Plans include a 10 psi street set-up for pump gas. In race trim we will change pullies to increase blower pressure to about 20 psi.

I threw this in the mix as an alternative to a NA or NOS motor. Granted its a very expensive alternative, but with EFI and a centrifigual you have a wide array of options as to the tune up.

Rob

I've posted this before about wanting to make a standard deck height, stealth 588"er using an aftermarket block at 5.625" b x 4.375" s = 588"

I figure custom pistons and 6.44" longer rods should do it, but that it won't be an RPM motor!!

I figure the 3/8" arm won't cost all that much more then a 1/4" arm sorta deal..... Pistons same cost..

pdq67

Yes it is the ultra street. Pretty close to what you are looking at except the cam is smaller. 255 / 262 .651 on a 114.

PDQ 67: I am building a low deck 572, 4.56 x 4.375. I am leaving a little extra meat in the cylinder walls to help keep it cool on the street. I am using a 5.386 rod (Crower Billet) with your 6.44 rod you will be pretty high into the oil ring, not that it is not doable, just into the oil ring.

Not to derail this thread, but I've been thinking about a big inch big block that would be streetable, but still make big power. Pro-filer heads have really gotten my attention, as it seems like a 320-350cc oval port head would be perfect for a big street motor that wants to keep the rpm's at a relatively conservative level. All of the info they've got on their site makes them sound great, but I can't recall anybody ever saying they've used them. The price seems very reasonable, and the numbers look darn good; anybody know much about them, and would they be a good way to make BIG, but still streetable power?

The profiler heads are awesome, the 320's are plenty for a mid rpm (-6500) big block in the 522-572 range

Wow, lots to think about. I guess scince most these combos really have some tough power to put to the ground, I need to think about other things as far as keeping her a streetable car. With a 540 with this kind of intake fit under my cowl induction hood or will I have to modify? Also, I know she's a 3,500lb heavy Chevy, but will I have to make any modifications to the frame to support the TQ and power coming from this profile of engine? Great responses guys! Thanks for the help!

Also, I know she's a 3,500lb heavy Chevy, but will I have to make any modifications to the frame to support the TQ and power coming from this profile of engine?

OooohNoooo.....not at all, of course if the tires were to ever miraciously hook up you'll never be able to open the doors again :D

Just pokin a little fun at ya ;) But seriously you are talking about some major power and a stock frame/suspension would die in very short order if the tires ever did hook. There is also a safety issue with this much power. I would consider a cage mandatory and the suspension and brakes would also need a serious up grade.

Rob

If you used an aftermarket block like a Dart Big M,could you build a short deck 4.5 x 4.5 572"? Seems like something like this would be an absolute torque monster for a serious street car.
Any problems going that large with a short deck block?

Hahaha! Always nice to have some humor! haha! I'm wondering what kind of power I can run and still keep the interior stock (no cage). I'm already planning on a decent upgrade to the brakes and suspension. What all should I do to the suspension? I'm not a suspension guy at all. Maybe I need to post over in that room. Thanks for the info Rob.

69 Ratt Vette,

Thanks for the info.. Please come back and tell us how she runs b/c if my 496" motor doesn't give me that wanted third gear charge, I will either blow it with a 250 or 256 mini-supercharger OR build a 588" standard deck motor for grins AND just say my 496 blew up so I went back with a 396'er!!!

He, He!!!

pdq67

The problem with a 4.5 in. stroke in a short deck is the rod length will put the pin too high intro the piston. If you want to run a 4.5 in. stroke, get a tall deck. However.....a 4.25 in. stroke and a 4.6 bore is 565 cu in...HHmmm, sweet.

PDQ 67, I will keep every body up on the project. I am going to run my little 454 while I really learn the nitrous game. I want to safely run a 350 shot in the 454 and a 500 shot in the 572. I have a bit to figure out regarding chassis tuning etc, untill I stick the 572 in there. BTW, if you 496 doesn't cut it, don't put a little blower on it that you have to spin to death to make any power, give a 150-200 shot of nitrous.

I'm still thinking over the whole nitrous game. Blowers you have to spin to death yeah, but it's good honest power that you can get without the safety risks, and filling your nitrous bottle every week. graemlins/thumbsup.gif Plus, nitrous is simply hard on an engine. You can get by for some time if it's set up and used right, but your engine life won't be nearly as long. But hey, a smoker's life is his own, and so is your engine. Either way, let us know how it goes.

Malibu_man 72, if you put a 540 or larger engine you will want to put an anti-roll device on the rear end housing. This will compensate and keep both sides of the car lifting the same. Any one contemplating a 4.5" stroke will have to use a tall deck (10.2" deck height block). This doesn't raise the engine by .4" though as the increase in deck height is going at a 45 degree angle to vertical and i hear this only raises the engine about 1/4" and moves it outwards by the same amount. Anyway a 4.375 is the biggest stroke you can get in the standard block. If no anti-roll bar is used the car will pick the driver side front wheel about 15" on launch while the passenger wheel will only rise about 3". Twists the crap out of the body but didn't do any permanent damage to my sons car. I would advise getting only a short block and buying the heads seperately if your mechanical at all and be sure to get a Dart, Merlin III, or Bowtie Block as they have improved oiling systems. All the good blocks weigh about 250 pounds at 4.5" bore. Reher-Morrison recommends building a 571(4.625 bore x 4.25 stroke) so you can use the standard block deck height. If you really want power think 18* heads like Brodix Big Dukes, 14* Dart Big Chiefs or 12* Profilers. Will also require (Big Budget).

Maybe I missed it, but what are your True Goals with the car...ET, MPH, Streetability (According to YOUR definition)..?????

Nitrous is NOT any harder on an engine than any other power adder. It is simply more air fuel mixture in the cylinder. Properly set up an 800 hp nitrous motor is easier on parts than an 800 hp NA motor. The problem with nitrous is guys don't take the time to learn about it. They also tend to bolt it onto motors where it does not belong, and then they get gready. A 300 shot does not belong an a stock short block. It is very simple and safe to run a 150-200 shot on a decently built big block. Take a little time to learn about it, set up to run if safely, and then have fun.

The only problem with a 4.625 bore is that is as far as you can go. It may cause a little heating issues on a street motor.

Yes, the true concern for starting this thread:
I want to be able to Do at least a high or mid 10 seconds on the quarter, at around 125 or more, and still keep the engine within a cowl induction hood. I want to keep her pretty streetable. I also don't want to have to put in a cage because that just takes away the look of your interior. I guess that's better then taking away the look of my face! :D But that anti roll device for the rear end is a good point. I've seen some of these a while ago but not sure where the best place is to get these, and how hard they are to adapt to your car. Thanks for clearing up the Nitrous subject 69 Ratt. Maybe I can figure that into my desired combination to get the speeds and ET I want while keeping her streetable... you think? Thanks guys. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I don't buy the "800hp nitrous motor is easier on parts than an 800hp NA motor". Let's run a 555 pump gas engine at 800hp against a baseline 600hp engine with a dyno proven 200hp shot of squeeze. Any less than that is not really worth spending the time and energy to set up. How about 10 miles for starters? Or 50 miles? Or 100? At that duration, you'll have little left at the end of a few miles. Agreed it's a good power adder when set up right, but it is harder on parts, particularly over time (seasons). If I were going to set up a hot street engine with a power adder, I'd have to go big bore, moderate stroke and a huffer. That's power from off-idle, very safe compared to the squeeze and aside from routine maintenance and belt replacement once in a while, once it's paid for, it's cheap. Can't say that with giggle gas. A stuck fuel solenoid or any other lean condition will eat it alive, and those bottles drain pretty fast, particularly with a good size shot. BTW, I'm building a pump gas 565 with some 320cc runner aluminum heads, flat top pistons and a Big M block. Should easily dyno at the 800 hp mark without the blower. Massive tire shredding torque and some kind of WOW factor. Just my .02.

let us know how it goes. I'm dying to find a good combo that will fit under the hood. Sounds like you've found your melody. Thanks for your thoughts. The debate of nitrous lives on...

Malibu_man72, if you want to keep the suspension a bolt in type set up I would suggest checking out Dick Miller's traction bars. They are high quality and he knows how to hook a small tire high horsepower "A" body. He also makes the anti-roll bar but that will require fabrication and welding, but is well worth the effort as suggested earlier IMHO. It's going to be hard to try and get away without a roll cage at your power/performance level. The first time you zip down below 11.99 (let alone way deep into the 10's) the tech man will probably ask you to either slow it down (not exactly an option for us die hards) or take the car home and don't come back until it has the proper safety equipment. And when you think about it, at 125 + mph (and that's probably a very conservative figure) you want added safety.

I'm kinda interested to see input on the power adder debate...maybe a topic for a new thread?

Rob

MyBoTy: Good observations, however all things being equal a nitrous motor is easier on parts for the following reason, rpms. If we were to build similar quality 555 motors, one built to make 800 hp at approx 7000 rpms and the other only 600 hp at approx 5500 rpms. The 600 hp motor would last longer. The fact we add a 200 shot of nitrous on it to make the 800 hp only changes cylinder pressure, not the true killer of motors, rpms. Obvioulsy we can not run a nitrous motor for 100 miles, but if properly tuned and maintianed the nitrous motor is easier on parts. The same can be said about a turbo or blower. I choose nitrous because it makes more power on gasoline than a roots blower and a turbo set up is out of my price range.

You thoughts on the blocked selinoids or fuel delivery issues will kill a nitrous motor for sure. You just have to keep it maintained and hope that sh!t don't happen.

BTW you may want to start a thread about your 555. One of the Vette guys that lurkes here (540 Hotrod) built a 825 hp pump gas 540, that he just drove 2000 miles to a big vette event. The car also won the Fastest Street Vette in Texas shootout. The guys name is Jim and he is VERY knowledgable and helpful.

Your 555 should be sweet. I was on that track untill I decied to add just a little more stroke and go 572. With a big tire car and backhalved I should have went 632, but oh well next time.

Agreed, but it's actually kinda hard to build a 555 that ONLY makes 600 hp :D . I've been in contact with Jim on multiple occasions, one of the nicest guys I've ever talked to. He's spent mega time and quite a few Ben Franklins on his ride and I think (and hope) he has all the wrinkles ironed out of it. He has the "more power, Scotty" bug as bad as anyone I've ever seen. He's been a wealth of information for me and hope I've told him enough times how much I appreciate him.
Still rather run a huffer, though. I'd like to see a power adder thread on a big bracket racing website where the debate could be joined by many more who have real world experience.

This Jim is from the Houston, Tx. area isn't he? I've read and posted back to him several times over on Mike Stark's board. What did he run at the vette meet? If it's the same guy he recently installed a G-Force five speed manual transmission with a 1400 H.P. rating.

66rat,
Are traction bars all I'm going to need to upgrade to for suspension you think? I'll look into those Dick miller's. Available anywhere or no? That anti roll device will have to be welded yes, but you think I'll have to tear apart my rear end or you think they will assemble around everything without having to? I'm still debating on the cage if I'll be putting her on the track a lot. I'm sure I'll want to. But what kind of affordable horse power can I get and still use pump gas and keep her under the hood? That's still my main question that I had stirring when I started this thread. I know there's a million different products to choose from but I just need some good suggestions on what works and what doesn't, and maybe some recommendations on quality products. Thanks guys. smile.gif

Having the axle tubes welded to the center section is a good idea with a twelve bolt rear end as they are only pressed in by the factory and can come out although its a rare happening. The Dick Miller traction control system seems to work well on a twelve bolt rear end and yes the anti-roll bar will require welding and should be done by a good chassis professional. Any good running Big Block from 468-540 should run 10s so let your wallet be your guide. A Chevy 502 crate motor will even run 10s with a cam change, while a good 540 will most certainly run low 10s or faster.

i remember reading an old magazine build up by lingenfelter. he felt that even on a mild 540" engine oval port heads were the way to go. has anyone ran a 540 with 049 781 heads? it seems to me they would not flow enough. how about if rpm's were under 6K. just info for discussion. mike

Hi, Ron454 here,
Fun thread..
A 540 is what I should have planned for my Nova, but the 468 freshen morphed into the 498 cause I didn't think ahead enough.
Anyway, a few more things to consider.
Header fit might be a problem due to the tall deck block.
World products sells a 540 short block kit with 5cc domes for about $4100.
A 540 will want "good" heads. Think about the AFR 315's or 335's.
My guess is also that it will like a dominator carb....not real street friendly.
Also think about a Comp Extreme energy roller with the endura X lifters. These cams don't run a ton of spring pressure like a real race roller.
Pump gas is a crap shoot anymore. Do we really know what we get? So watch the plugs carefully. You have some elevation there in Twin Falls right? That will work in your favor, but I'd still tip the can to be on the safe side.
Pick an intake geared for the upper rpm. You will still have more than enough low end torque.
About the chassis. You can fit maybe an 11x29 tire, so you will have to run a 3.73 gear. Forget the stock posi, axles and driveshaft. A 9" would be the best bet, but a 12 bolt will live if you weld the axle tubes, add a spool, better axles, and use a cap support cover and maybe even a support kit. They connect to the cover. I'd also have the housing ends changed so you can use a captured bearing like the fud's use. C clips are a no no below 11 seconds. There are a few control arm sets on the market that are good, and a big beefy rear sway bar is a must.
Don't forget good shocks either.
A roll bar is a minimum requirement, untill you run below 10.0. You will also need an SFI
balancer, and of course the replace every 2 year seat belts.
I have run a spool on the street for about 5 years now, a pain, but ok as long as you respect the traits, and don't drive in the rain!
Lots of great input from all you folks, and this newbie recognises I've found a great source for info.
Have fun 72Chevelle and do keep us posted!
Ron

WOW! :eek: So so much great information! Thanks so much guys! I'll do some shopping and when I decide on a combination, I'll post it and see what you guys think and take your coaching and any disputes about the products. What's a good brand for BB heads? Yeah, high elevation up here. Were you mentioning the dominant carb not being to streetable because of the gas going as fast as you can flush a toilet bowl, or for other reasons? Also, can I get away with that size of tire without doing any tubbing? I'll probably buy a good anti roll device and have someone local install it professionally for me. I'm not familiar with welding my axle. Anyone want to expound on that or maybe post a pic or a link to one of what I'll be looking forward to?I'm thinking more and more about the cage. What's your guys' opinions on that? Should I tone it down a bit so I don't force myself to put in a cage or should I just go for the power and add the cage? Just curious as to the looks. Looks vs. power... hmmm! Hard choice for me. All advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks everyone! (Ron: A great source indeed... I'll be be adding your email to my address book haha! btw, I originally bought my car from a guy in portland area. How's your car(s) doing with the weather/climate there? It seemed to have quite a bit of rust in the trunk when I first got her... ) graemlins/waving.gif

malibu_man72, Check out www.dickmillerracing.com (http://www.dickmillerracing.com) you can see all the suspension parts he makes. He also has a great book to help you understand how to set up the suspension, trust me it is good reading. The stock 12 bolt aint going to cut it. As suggested earlier weld the axel tubes to the center section, ditch the stock axels in favor of aftermarket with pressed on bearings (new housing ends will have to be installed). I wouldn't run the "C" clip eliminators on a street car, the side loads will eventually cause them to start leaking. If you run a posi then axel spline is going to be limited to 30 or you can opt for the bigger eaton unit with the 33 spline, personally I'd run a spool and be done with it, nothing to break or rebuild and you can step up to a 35 spline axel. About the only other thing you can do to beef it up is to relpace the drivers side carrier bearing cap with an aftermarket cap, add an alum. rear cover/girdle, and maybe add the braces that tie the axel tubes to the rear girdle. That is about as tough a 12 bolt as your going to get.

There was a fella either here or on another forum (I'm kicking myself for not remembering who or where), that had pictures of the frame modifications he did, absolutely beautiful. He completely boxed the frame, I think he used 1/8" plate, and gusseted all the suspension attach points including the front "A" frames. The guy did an outstanding job and I know it had to really stiffen his chassis. I mention this as an alternative if you are really hesistant to the roll bar/cage option. However, I would much rather see you go with the roll cage. It's just plain safer.

On a final note concerning the engine. I'm sure Shafiroff has done his homework on developing that motor. It's going to be hard to design a similar engine on your own. Most engine builders are more than glad to take a basic engine package and customize it to your exact needs. They know what works and what doesn't. Unless you have access to a good machine shop and have the tools and skills to assemble the engine yourself I'd opt to buy the motor from someone like Shafiroff, Schmidt, Reher/Morrison or whoever your confortable with. Do your homework, find out who is more specialized with the application your looking for, ie, NOS, blower, turbo, or N/A application. I picked Schmidt, why? I liked their honesty. I asked them if they knew anything about centrifugal blowers, they were right up front and said no. But they wanted my business and worked with me on parts selection with help from outside sources who were experts with this type blower. So pick up the phone and start calling.

As far as engine clearance to hood, all I can say is....be prepared to do whatever it takes, cuz your entering the world of hotrodding and nothing fits just right. You'll end up getting very frustrated if you have the mind set that you paid good money for a part and the damn thing better fit. Nine times out of 10 it aint goint to fit without some tweaking. Well got to go, It's Super Chevy weekend up in Atlanta and I'm here and not there....yet. Yall have a safe and blessed weekend

Rob

Malibu_man72, The new Chevy High Performance Magazine has an article on a 72 Heavy Chevy starting on page 88 of the new July '04 Issue that might interest you. I got my 540 from Steve Schmidt and it runs great. I opted for a few upgrades to help durability but nothing has broken yet. I might get better roller lifters (Crower with Hippo option or Isky Red Zones) or go with a flat tappet if i had it to do over again. My sons 482" with stock heads ran 10.49 @ 128 MPH with a ZL-1 flat tappet cam. No faster with a roller.

I can't afford a built motor so I put my own mild motor together..

Speed-O-Motive sells 4.375" stroke standard deck height BB rotating kits up to 572! BUT be sure to get what you want if you buy from them!!

Here is a link to them.

http://www.speedomotive.com/BIG%20BLOCK%20CHEVY%20557-564-572%20CID%20STROKER%20KIT.htm

Please do what you want..

As always, just trying to help..

pdq67

My combination seems to work well.

I can race on 89 octane,

cross the stripe at 6000, shift at 5600

Run 3.42 gears with a 28" tire on the strip.

City, Town, Village, Hamlet, or Highway driving is not an issue and I do it all the time.

I use a box stock Holley 850 DP.

standard 9.8" merlin II block

stock GM cast iron crate motor take-off water pump

Box stock Canfield Heads 310CC

Full exhaust to the bumper

Dick Miller parts in the rear suspension

stock coil springs (fronts are 6 cylinder malibu)

I would highly recommend at least a 10 point cage setup with the Torque you will produce, I was twisting things in the 12 second range.

I use a GM 12 Bolt rear with a Powertrax Locker for 6 years now. Tubes are welded to the pumpkin, Mark Williams axles with c-clip eliminator kit and a TA cover with support to the bearing caps.

Torque Converter is a 4200 flash 9 1/2"

There is another .5 second left in my combination, But my race class requires a ET cutoff of 11.000 so I add 200 pounds to the trunk when I race now.

Some parts of my Combo may work for you.

Good Luck..

http://www.boomspeed.com/mc71454/april2004_launch.jpg

what class do you run?

Originally posted by Motor Martyr:
what class do you run? Street Legal Series, full interior, Dot's etc. I am pretty sure the Insurance Company for the track mandated the low ET cutoff to 11.000. Used to be 10.000. Top 4 finishers will go to Delaware for NHRA eastern finals in the Fall.

I race on Wed Nights, just can't make it most Sundays to run in the Heavy Eliminator class for points. I have 3 kids 8,4,2 ;) ...as many others will know what I mean, eventually I will be able to in due time.

My '72 Buick is in the paint shop and should be done in 4 weeks and the chevelle is a long term project, need to set aside time for those too.

You have a Camaro too, right?

Is the ET cutoff in Delaware also 11.00?

Sounds like you are pretty busy!

Originally posted by Motor Martyr:
You have a Camaro too, right?

Is the ET cutoff in Delaware also 11.00?

Sounds like you are pretty busy! Brian,

Sorry, No Camaro, would Like one, but I need to stay married...LOL.

Good Question...will need to find out.

Yes, and then some

Wow, how do you get such good time with that heavy baby? And you add 200 lbs as well? I guess you'd have to to pull that time, butI meant, even with 200lbs you still do great! Those heads flow pretty good? What kind of tire is that you're using? Nice pic btw. Thanks for the info. I just got back from a sweet car show here in Burley (45mins from Twin Falls) and there were a couple fully restored 66 chevelles and some nice Mopars that would make any hot rod fan drool! I think the Super Bee 6-pack won people's choice. Anyway, thought I'd share. Didn't take my camera, sorry! :( Who makes good tough axles?

Car Craft magazine had an article in their Aug. '03 issue, it was called 'Import Killer: 780 h.p. from 7.4 liters' I couldn't find the article online, but here is part 2 of the article Import Killer, 925 h.p. from 454 ci (http://www.carcraft.com/projectbuild/116_0309_afr/index.html)

I've got part one down in my room, if you want I can scan it and e-mail it to you. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Man that is so awesome! Heard of anyone actually trying this for themselves? What all is in the PART1? If it wouldn't be too much trouble, I would LOVE to read the part one if you could email it to me. Thanks so much!

What's your guys' take on those heads in the above link? I've been reading more and more and seriously thinking about going down that road and need some advice.

Originally posted by Malibu_man72:
What's your guys' take on those heads in the above link? I've been reading more and more and seriously thinking about going down that road and need some advice. Outstanding head.
In my opinion it is the best out of the box standard head out there at this time.
Check the numbers especially the low & mid lift numbers.
They are not inflated. I have had the heads on my bench & both AFR & Brodix are very honest.
I had Tony flow a port & then flowed the same port on my bench just to verify the numbers I was seeing & to sort of "quantify" my bench against theirs for my own information
Also had Brodix do the same on a M2 227 small block head.
It's nice to have a baseline so I can compare different heads when I see some of the advertised numbers out there :D

If you are considering the AFR's, email me.
I can probably save you a few dollars on them ;)

Flowplace-

Thanks for verifying the actual flow on those heads to be correct! I'm thinking about getting those so you may get an email sometime. I visited your link! Awesome wolfes by the way! How many do you own? Do you breed them or anything! Way cute little things! Would love one of my own some day. If you guys haven't checked out his site, it's worth the visit. Three85stroker- Did you ever find part one? I'd love to take a gander at that. Take care guys. Thanks wolfplace.

Originally posted by Malibu_man72:
Flowplace-

Thanks for verifying the actual flow on those heads to be correct! I'm thinking about getting those so you may get an email sometime. I visited your link! Awesome wolfes by the way! How many do you own? Do you breed them or anything! Way cute little things! Would love one of my own some day. If you guys haven't checked out his site, it's worth the visit. Three85stroker- Did you ever find part one? I'd love to take a gander at that. Take care guys. Thanks wolfplace. =
Thanks, those be are "babies" :D
We have six, Nikolos which we got at 2 weeks from a friend with a wildlife sanctuary, his daughter Dakota, two sisters that are 12 years & 65%, one of which is the mother of Dakota & the two new "pups" we adopted, that are 1 year now & already 95+lbs!!

Nikolos is 9 years now & about 175lbs.
Nikolos is 100% arctic white wolf & Dakota is a 6 year old 90% wolf/malamute.
The sisters are about 65-70% wolf/malamute & the two pups are about 80%.

Also have a new German Shepherd pup we got at 7 weeks that is 9 months now & is my wife's baby! Her parents are both working K9's & she is about 90lbs.

We also have about 3 acres double fenced around our house that is "their" yard ;)

And no, we do not breed them to sell.
We have had three generations of them & have sold some but it is pretty much like adopting a child to get one from us :D
Most people just do not get the fact that these are not dogs & never will be.

Thanks for telling me about your family! :D Seem like special babies you have there. About thos e AFR heads, I'll email you soon to discuss maybe buying some through you or however you get them. Thanks so much! Take care!

Wolfplace,

I been wondering. Are your wolves aggressive at all? Like to other K9s, or other people (strangers or friends). Also how much do you feed them?

Originally posted by -SS454-:
Wolfplace,

I been wondering. Are your wolves aggressive at all? Like to other K9s, or other people (strangers or friends). Also how much do you feed them? =

They are not aggressive towards most people but we do not get a lot of strangers coming into our yard either :D
They basically will not have anything to do with other people but would kill any other K9 that ventured into "their" area.
We actually have two shepherds, one is 11 years old & "raised" Nikolos & is completely accepted as part of the pack as are we.
The other is the new one & was never accepted for some unknown reason.
We have a separate yard for her when she is outside.

Nikolos the full arctic wolf is the Alpha & as such "accepts" us on his terms.
The mixes are better but anything over about 50-60% is not going to make a good "house pet"
He has nailed me pretty good a few times but it goes with the territory.
At 175lbs, he is so powerful he could take my arm off if he wanted so he is doing nothing wrong, just letting me know he's the "boss" in the only way he knows how ;)
Five minutes later he will take candy out of my mouth.
In the house he is almost a different animal. It's like the yard is his territory & the house is ours.
If he comes to me in the yard (which is about 3 acres) all is fine but usually going to him is not the best plan :D
There is no way you cannot read his "mood" if you pay attention & if he wants to be left alone that would probably be the best course of action ;)

They eat a LOT. Each gets a hind quarter of chicken daily along with hi protein dog food.

As I have posted before, they are fantastic animals to be around & have in our lives but they are not a "family pet" & not for anyone

They are not a possession or status symbol.
They are part of our family or perhaps we are part of theirs smile.gif

I feel we have a pretty unique situation in that we have about 10 acres & my shop is on our property so we are here almost all the time & we have both the time & the room for them.
They are a very social animal & need the interaction of both each other & us daily.

We as people could probably learn a lot studying their social order & the way they "discipline" their "children" ;)

Not real sure what this has to do with performance or 540's though graemlins/clonk.gif

So,,, back to Rats,,,, & apologies to Bryce for wandering off the original post as I tend to do sometimes :D

Thanks wolfplace for the response. I dont think anyone would be cranky for talking about your wolves sometimes. Its facinating to hear about. I think its great the relationship u have with them, and that you keep them on a good piece of property. I hate when people get exotic wild "pets" like Tigers and such, and then keep them in a small cage or in a small city house. What you have with your wolves reminds me a lot of the guy that owns the bears that are in the movies (Bart the Kodiak bear if u remember), they are part of his family, but gives them enough room when they need to be alone. So a big graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Originally posted by Malibu_man72:


Three85stroker- Did you ever find part one? I'd love to take a gander at that.Sorry, I had a vehicular emergency come up and totally forgot to scan the article, I'll do it tonight when I get home. graemlins/waving.gif