Seems the 496" I`m building for one of my buds full size truck has taken a new direction.

Now here`s my concern; He wants to put a Vortech Supercharger on it!.

The block and the rotating assembly are at the machine shop.
The pistons need to be changed out, need 8.0-1 comp. instead of the current 10.25-1.
That`s not really a problem, just another set of $525 SRP`s. :( Anybody looking for new in the box SRP`s?? They are for a 6.385" rod, 4.310" bore. 10/10.25 @ 119cc.
The final hone isn`t done fortunatly and the balance job hasn`t been done either, so his timing was good as far as that goes.

ANYWAY...I`m sweating the 2 Bolt studded factory block that is already aligned bored/honed and bored .060 and .000 decked mag`d and cleaned etc..

The potential for nearly 1000 HP :eek: and this block has me concerned.
Had I known this before hand, a 4 bolt steel main cap kit would have gone on this block.
Too late now.

Any comments/suggestions??

Originally posted by BigRed-L72:
The potential for nearly 1000 HP and this block has me concerned.
Had I known this before hand, a 4 bolt steel main cap kit would have gone on this block.
Too late now.
Its never too late, could always sell what he has and go with a bowtie or a aftermarket block. 1000 HP is really pushing it for the production block. Just my .02

undee..I hear what you`re saying.
Anybody else have some input?, tickle my ears here guys! Tell me it`ll be just fine as is..ok? :(

Boom! :eek:

I may be old fashioned, but I don't think 1000hp is pushing it on a factory block. I'll go one step further and say that I don't think 1000hp is necessarily going to break a 2-bolt block.

Things come apart at high RPMs. Depending on the use of the motor, a 2 bolt block might be fine. Hell, my close friend ran a 2-bolt 427 for years and years in super-comp, shifting at 7500. Yes, he broke some things here and there but it lived for the most part.

Yeah, I'd rather run a 4-bolt block but do you think the motor's gonna see the sunny side of 6000 rpm? Centrifugals make more boost as the rpms rise, but I'm still guessing you're going to keep a big displacement motor below 6000 or so, right (at least most of the time).

I'm sure you guys will thrash me on this one but IMHO you could get away with it.

Is this a street motor, or a race-only motor? If it's a race motor or you think it will see a lot of track time, then yes, I'd say put some money in a better block if you plan on blowing that much boost, and it will make ya feel better too. Ok, in the best of all possible worlds, a 4-bolt block, siamesed bores, etc. would be best. :D

I'm with Jeff. I think as long as it is for a cruiser and not a track bruiser it will probably hold together fine. Yeah sure the other stuff would be nice to have for insurance. I have buddy with a 73 Omega :rolleyes: that has a backyard built stock bottom end 454 with an 8-71. The motor has held up pretty reasonably considering the it has about 9.5-1 compression. Heck the car still runs a 10 bolt rear peg-leg(non-posi ;) ).

BTW what kinda deal can you work me on the pistons, seriously. Kick me an email. graemlins/beers.gif

If there`s a weak link then in this case it would be the block.
The lightened steel crank, Oliver rods and Srp pistons will hold up.

This is a street/strip truck.
A blower is new territory for me, a 6000 rpm limit with 3.07-3.55 gears seems reasonable.

Thanks guys

Just how hard is he going to push it? If he does something like stick a trailer behind it and head up a mountain it is going to die. If he really isn't going to exceed 6000 rpm it might live but the main caps are going to walk around. Think very seriously about a Dart or such.

Install a good set of main studs and you should be fine if as already said, you don't go over board on rpm's. Imho..

I installed them in my old block 496 motor as a little extra insurance by spinning the crank as I torqued her down! Worked great..

pdq67