Anyone using one of these from HRPartsNStuff?

http://www.hrpartsnstuff.com/products/rearend/swaybar.htm

Emil Dusek
71 Chevelle SS-502

I use a Hotchkis F/R sways, it hurts your launch,but the car turns harder.

That's an interesting design. I wonder if it's really better than a stock type. I suppose it's a matter of how resistant to twisting the bar is.

It does allow for preloading, unlike stock.

Tim.

looks like an S-10 swaybar with adjustable end links added.

Peter

A picture is worth a thousand words. Look at how the bar straightened out the Chevelle.

Here is the same idea, but another design.

http://www.wolferacecraft.com/install/abody/abodsway.aspx

Yeah, looks like that Chevelle had no sway bar at all to begin with. Not a great comparison. Though it does leave straight with the bar.

The Wolfe Racecraft bar is a different design but then, so is a stock bar. Is there really any differance between those bars and a good sized stock type?

I don't see dimensions for the HR bar but the Wolfe is 1-1/4" x .375" thick tube. If you had a stock type bar of those dimensions, how well would it work?

Tim.

One of the key features of a sway bar is how it's mounted. The stock one is mounted to the lower control arms and the rearend. The other two examples mount to the rear and the frame. That is a bi difference. The stock mounting positions does not allow a solid anchor to the body or frame to really affect the body lean or roll.

Todd

But the principle is the same. When one side of the suspension moves, the other side creates resistance. That resistance is controled by how easily the sway bar can twist.

Tim.

Tim, the HR bar is 1.25" O.D. 1/4" tubing. My friend has a Hotchkis 1.25" rear sway bar, and full roll cage, and his 72 Chevelle still twists. Another concern I have is how streetable this thing really is.

Emil Dusek
71 Chevelle SS-502

Tron
your right except for one thing. The control arms aren't strong enough to resist the forces involved. They flex even if they are boxed because you are pushing on the wall of the control arm. The frame connection is alot more stable. Another thing is all the forces are going thru rubber bushings which again flex. All of these add up to reducing the efficiency of the torsion bar.

So in essence the theory is the same but the execution affects the efficiency and results.

Todd

I think both designs would greatly limit suspension travel for street driving, but it would be easy enough to just leave the link that ties the frame to the bar/axle off for on road usage. Hook it up when at the track.

IMO, I'm a little concerned on how & where this setup bolts to the frame. :(
That area is not the strongest part of an A body frame. Something's gotta absorb that twisting motion at launch...

Bill

You are right I didnt see the pic of it attached like it is to the frame. I just realized that it was and left it like that. Personally I would either put some gussetts in that area or move it all together.

Todd