BG220 HR Fuel Pumps [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: BG220 HR Fuel Pumps


Joel Koontz
Feb 24th, 01, 7:36 AM
I am going to install new fuel lines and an electric pump in the near future. I have read a lot of good stuff about the Mallory Comp 140 and mostly "bad stuff" about the Holley Pumps. What about the BG220 HR pump? It is only slightly more money than the Comp 140 and has substantially more capacity. How much noise do the BG Pumps make and how reliable are they? I don't currently need a 220 GPH pump but I may add Nitrous and would prefer to have excess capacity.

racer1320
Feb 24th, 01, 7:47 AM
Joel, You've heard right about the Mallory Comp 140 which is what I use. IMO the BG pumps are like most of their stuff, over priced and more marketing than performance. If you want the best look at Magna Flow #(719)532-1897. However it would be overkill in a street/strip car and many race cars.

You may want to post this question over at
www.headsupreview.com/wwwboard/index.html (http://www.headsupreview.com/wwwboard/index.html) and
www.dragraceresults.com/ubbcgi/Ultimate.cgi (http://www.dragraceresults.com/ubbcgi/Ultimate.cgi)

for some other opinions.



[This message has been edited by racer1320 (edited 02-24-2001).]

SS540
Feb 24th, 01, 10:26 AM
I use a BG 220HR on my street car. It does make a good bit of noise, but I have it solidly mounted to the trunk floor, with no rubber isolator. It costs a bunch to plumb it, what with the -10 return line and all the AN fittings. It has worked fine for about 1 year, but only time will tell if it lasts. I do have a Mallory 140 that is plumbed up as a spare in case the BG takes a crap while I'm on the road. I even carry a spare regulator.

I have not heard anything in the way of street reliability about the Magna Flow pumps. What do you know about them Ed?

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It’s a BIGger BLOCK!

racer1320
Feb 24th, 01, 10:49 AM
Wayne, Magna Flow is the former Super Flow and is high end stuff. As I said over kill for a street car. My complaint with BG is they would have everybody believing that unless "you" run one of their pumps your motor is not running to it's fullest potential. I know of several guys that have been swayed by this marketing only to be about $1,500 poorer with no increase in performance over their Holley blue or Mallory 140. In addition BG will tell you that if your going to run their pump on the street you need to purchase their step down voltage regulator and of course they'll tell you that you must run a return line/bypass.

Fact is you don't need a return line in a street/strip car and it's not necessary in many race cars. My own Mallory 140 has no return line and I've run this pump for upwards of 20,000 miles and over 1000 passes "dead headed" without a problem. About 2 years ago I notice the fuel pressure was fluctuating at the track. I swapped out to my spare pump and sent that pump to Mallory for a $60 rebuild. Point is you can buy 2 Mallory Comp 140 pumps and regulators and still be way ahead of the game compared to the BG pump with all the goodies.

As you and I do, anyone running an electric fuel pump should carry a spare pump and regulator.

[This message has been edited by racer1320 (edited 02-24-2001).]

Wes Colby
Feb 24th, 01, 12:15 PM
Joel, as Ed has suggested, the BG piece is probably overkill for your application...unless you plan healthy doses of NOS in the future. I've had my Comp140 for going on four years now and had to replace the brushes ($22 kit) once b/c I had the pump siphoning gas up and out of the stock pick-up tube. A trunk mounted fuel cell solved that problem. I checked the new brushes after they had 1.5 years useage and the brush material was barely used up so I know what the culprit was. Whichever route you go, keep in mind that it 'should' be gravity fed with either a fuel cell or gas tank sump kit.

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502 Rat Infested 1970 Malibu - Gold Member #39
Keep America Beautiful - Drive A Brute Force Chevelle!
http://pages.about.com/wescolby/personal.html

hoffbug
Feb 24th, 01, 1:59 PM
I run the BG 220 hot rod pump. It is loud, spendy, and can be costly to plumb if you run braided all the way( but it isnt necessary).I ran #AN10 return line to the passenger upper vent tube area on the front of the tank.I drilled a hole and welded a fitting in the flat area on the upper front corner.I also welded a competition engineering sump to the bottom of the tank to gravity feed the pump.Competition engineering recommends sealing the tank inside with the sealer from eastwood company after attaching their sump.I made a bracket out of aluminum angle to mount the pump and filter combo rear of the tank and run rubber insulaters between tha bracket and the trunk floor where its mounted.I also run the pump with a relay that runs from the ignition on circuit and is also switched.And to top it off I run a low oil pressure cutoff swich that will open the circuit to the relay when oil pressure is below 10lbs ( more of an accident saftey feature than a engine saver).Lots of overkill for a fuel system. I just thought I'd throw it out there so you could see what other people are running.

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You can sleep in your car,but you cant drive your house.
Tony. H . 406 powered , Mohave Gold , 72'Malibu

Joel Koontz
Feb 24th, 01, 5:31 PM
It looks to me like the BG220 HR would cost only slightly more than Comp 140. There is less than $30.00 difference in the Summit Catalog. Is there some hidden cost that I am not aware of? IF the BG pump is of the same quality as the Mallory pump it appears to be a better deal as it has substantially more capacity. IF the quality of the BG pump is poor, it may not be a good deal at any price. Do they both use the Gerator Design? From what I have read, the BG pump requires a return line/regulator but does not require a voltage reduction device for street use. Is this accurate?

Thanks, Joel

505_Malibu
Feb 24th, 01, 6:57 PM
Joel,

I'd also check out pumps my Magnaflow and Product Engineering.
www.magnumforceracing.com/products/magnaflow/magnaflow_fuel_systems.htm (http://www.magnumforceracing.com/products/magnaflow/magnaflow_fuel_systems.htm)
www.productengr.com (http://www.productengr.com)

I just ordered a pump (#4450) from Product Engineering. The deal maker was that they have an unconditional 2 yr warranty, and ALL their pumps are rated for continuous duty. I phoned BG, and they told me that they would not warranty their 400 pump if I drove it on the street!

For you, how does the PE4300 270gph pump at $299 compare? Their sportsman 310gph pump is actually cheaper at $279. Difference being external bypass, which is better anyways.

From Magnaflow, the quickstar 275 pump is comparable, but $310!

Somebody may be able to confirm this, but I heard the founder of Product Engineering designed all BG's pumps, sold the rights, and could not make pumps for a few years, but is now back in business for himself.

Just a little more info to help with your decision.

Ryan

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RH
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hoffbug
Feb 24th, 01, 11:17 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Joel Koontz:
From what I have read, the BG pump requires a return line/regulator but does not require a voltage reduction device for street use. Is this accurate?

Thanks, Joel <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
The regulator comes with the 220HR,and there was no mention of needing voltage reduction for the 220HR in any of the instructions or literature I recieved.The Hot Rod pump is made for street/strip unlike the other pumps that don't have the H.R. designation.I think those probably do need some voltage reduction.


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You can sleep in your car,but you cant drive your house.
Tony. H . 406 powered , Mohave Gold , 72'Malibu

Bob Tiley
Feb 26th, 01, 6:33 AM
We asked BG several years ago about the 220 HR pump for use on the 502 Vette. They said it was not made for extended street driving (like a 3 hour trip) and would overheat, The tech person on the phone said it was a Pro-street unit made for short trips. That's why we went with the Comp 140, no problems with it, but we use the Mallory regulator with a return line. you can order it from Jeg's with 2 different regulators - No return line or the better "return regulator" that allows the pump to run cooler.