Searched the arhcives but didn't find anything. I want to plumb my shop with an air line from my compressor. Read some internet post about it and they were talking about how much this Rapidair system was, but I just don't get it. Its way cheaper than plumbing a line out of iron or copper pipe, and allot easier too. For a couple of hundred dollars I can have a pretty nice system and I could add on more later for not much more.

Anyone used this or is it crap?

I would like to know this as well.i think northern sells it but dont know anything about it.

My brother-in-law purchased an old exhaust/ muffler repair shop last year and turned it into a automtive repair shop. Basicly gutted the place and started over. It was pretty filthy inside. Anyways he used the Blue plastic pipe I think you are speaking of. He said it was real easy to work with. Cut fairly easy. Joints went together easy enough. No leaks. He told me to use it if and when I build my garage.
Check out this Forum for more info.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

Northern does sell some of it but you can get the whole line of products for slightly less at www.rapidairproducts.com. I called and talked with them and I'm really sold on it, just wanted to get an opinion from someone who used it.

I guess a couple of things to point out here.

Plastic or copper pipe has been questioned in regard to a fire, I guess some fire departments have a problem with it.

It seems if you have a fire the heat will loosen the copper joints and the air out of the pipe will fan the fire, also the plastic, a fire also but in some cases if it brakes it can whip around and be a hazard.

Another would be the diameter of the pipe, a 3/4'' diameter pipe works pretty good for cooling as far as black pipe, but I'm not sure what size plastic you can get, and how it cools, maybe it cools better then the black pipe.

Another thing I read is deterioration of the plastic if it comes into contact with oil or whatever else could contaminate it.

I'm not making a case for black pipe, just telling you what I have read.

I ran 1 inch pvc around the parimeter of my shop.can place drops any were fairly quickly and easy.was cheap also.had a local hose shop make a 3 foot rubber line from the compressor to the pvc to absorb the vibration.I also made a maifold to install an air drier at a later date when money permits.
eric:beers:

I haven't had any experience with the stuff but looks like it would be at least a thousands times easier than threaded iron pipe.

I would think that CPVC would be much cheaper and just as easy to use.

"I ran 1 inch pvc around the parimeter of my shop"

I'm not knocking it, but if you mention PVC on the garage forums, you'll get flamed. Apparently as it gets old, it becomes brittle and can shatter sending out sharp shrapnel.

I guess I've read enough horror stories about using PVC that I would be afraid of using it. Maybe down south where the temps never dip that low, but my shop gets down to 10-20 degrees when I don't have heat on. I'm thinking that would increase the brittle factor.

I wouldn't use PVC myself but CPVC IS ok

Schedule 40 would be a wise choice also if one were to use PVC or CPVC

Hey Chris, what is schedule 40?

Also, in your signature you have "SS replica (its what I can afford)", like you're apologizing. We all would do something different or extra if money wasn't a factor, but your car is the way you want it, considering what you could afford. No apology needed, your a Chevelle brother, no matter if your car is a true SS or a plain Jane bucket of rust!

I worked for an AC contractor in Mississippi installing units in new mobile homes
where in the winter if the lines froze they would split like ribbon running the
length of the lines. Those lines were cpvc so if your shop is close to freezing
I wouldn't use it.

Chuck

I too used Schedule 40 plastic pipe and teed in drops every 10 ft around 3 sides of garage with quick connects...also ran one 3/4 line across attic for hose reel..very convenient....garage is heated and being down south i don't think i'll have a problem with brittle pipe....at least i hope not..by the way, i ran 2 tees to the outside with quick connects for sand blaster. Cost is very reasonable for pipe and fittings...Bought at Lowes...disconnects from Harbor Freight

I worked for an AC contractor in Mississippi installing units in new mobile homes
where in the winter if the lines froze they would split like ribbon running the
length of the lines. Those lines were cpvc so if your shop is close to freezing
I wouldn't use it.

Chuck
In my 40 years in the Plumbing & HVAC industry, I've seen PVC do that many many times but have never seen CPVC do it.

It takes a few hours to a few days to run air lines, plastic is quicker, the metal ones a lot longer.

I've been searching for a couple of hours tying to find different explanations, and this one here has two pages.
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27734

It might take a guy 10 to 15 minutes to read and digest all of it, but it will take a lot less time then going to emergency room and getting xrays (plastic shards don't show up very good with xrays ).

I think most of us including myself under estimate any type of a pressurized air system.

Anyway there is a lot of information in it, not just the dangers but they mention different pipes and how they cool, how heat effects it, and the size of pipe in regard to velocity, and volume to aid in cooling hot air out of a air compressor.

Rob

In my 40 years in the Plumbing & HVAC industry, I've seen PVC do that many many times but have never seen CPVC do it.

Dean, Not getting in a pissing match with you on this. I worked for a Factory
Service Center for Fleetwood MH and also installed Intertherm AC units for
them. It was around 78-79 that we had if I remember right about 27 homes
that did this. Yes it was cpvc not pvc and we ended up going to the grey
lines (forget the name) that had to have the crimp fittings.:)

Chuck

My Dad used plain old PVC plastic pipe to plumb his garage 17 years ago. Hasn't broken a single pipe yet. ...and he has an 80 gallon, two stage compressor with a 175 psi max. pressure. Way, cheap. Super easy to work with. You can get parts at every hardware in America to add on or repair.

Schedule 40 is a industrial / Engineer rated pipe. Basicly it has a thicker wall. It is generaly a more durable product. You can also buy Schedule 80 and Schedule 120. Here is a link to a website with some info on Schedule 40 and 80 pipe. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-dimensions-d_795.html
Look at the wall thickness. Also look at the weight difference between PVC and CPVC. CPVC is a denser product. Hope this helps.

Schedule 40 is rated at 200psi working pressure...if you can't find at building supply store,check with local Heating and a/c supply warehouse... they use it for condensate drains also...comes in 10' and 20' sticks with bell fitting on one end...easy to glue up and fairly cheap....tees, ells also readily available.

Dean, Not getting in a pissing match with you on this. I worked for a Factory
Service Center for Fleetwood MH and also installed Intertherm AC units for
them. It was around 78-79 that we had if I remember right about 27 homes
that did this. Yes it was cpvc not pvc and we ended up going to the grey
lines (forget the name) that had to have the crimp fittings.:)

Chuck
Oh I don't doubt you one bit Chuck, heck I've had to replace plenty of galvanized iron water lines that had frozen and burst.
Just never any CPVC pipes, but of course it's probably because the DIY folks that used that brittle PVC stuff most likely wouldn't have ever spent extra money for CPVC.

Anyway, I don't think freezing air lines is an issue with what little amount of water would ever be in the lines.

I wouldn't use any type plastic myself but a lot of people have and have never had a problem with it.

The only problem I've ever had with my type "M" copper air lines is when we were installing a ceiling a couple of weeks ago and ran a staple through one but it was easy to fix.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s228/deancall/Team/11_09_08032.jpg

I agree Dean, copper is just fine. I use " K " just because I always have
some left over from installs. I have heard some don't like it because they
think it will burst.....don't think so.:D

Chuck

I think type K will hold over 5,000 PSI of pressure if I'm not mistaken and type M will hold much more pressure than any normal air compressor ever puts out.