: UD-Harold, How do you want your cam degreed?
Twilightoptics May 14th, 04, 11:05 PM Got the TF80/TF72-112 and put it in and have had a bit of trouble degreeing it.
The keyway is on the triangle, and using the ICL degree method, I come up with 106 as the centerline. The LSA is 112 and the ICL on the cam card is 108....
This means the cam is advanced 2º too far? Each keyway is 4º? Or is it 2º I've heard both ways.
Wanted to make sure from you before I start cutting the cam gear up to put the offset bushing in.
Thanks!
-Paul
427L88 May 15th, 04, 6:18 PM Paul, it's 4 on the keyway. Only way I know to get it spot on is to drill out the pin bore and use an offset bushing. Don't know what cam you have , but mine is in +6-7 and it honks fine, but that may not work for you.
Wolfplace May 15th, 04, 8:05 PM Originally posted by 427L88:
Paul, it's 4 on the keyway. Only way I know to get it spot on is to drill out the pin bore and use an offset bushing. Don't know what cam you have , but mine is in +6-7 and it honks fine, but that may not work for you. =
Here is a link to Pauls other post for more info.
I think he is right on at 6 degrees advanced :D
Pauls post (http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=020376)
427L88 May 15th, 04, 9:18 PM RUN IT! AND GIVE IT HE**! smile.gif
Twilightoptics May 16th, 04, 4:49 PM Originally posted by 427L88:
RUN IT! AND GIVE IT HE**! smile.gif HeHe I hope to give lots of HE**!!!!
Machine Shop said the block shouldn't see any problems till after 7000rpm. 3000rpm stall. I do like lots of midrange grunt though. So street wise the advance will give me some more bottom end, but if I did put it in at 108 I'd see more top end?
What kind of shift point at 106 vs 108 do you guys think I'll have?
Thankie
-Paul
Wolfplace May 16th, 04, 5:12 PM Originally posted by Twilightoptics:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by 427L88:
RUN IT! AND GIVE IT HE**! smile.gif HeHe I hope to give lots of HE**!!!!
Machine Shop said the block shouldn't see any problems till after 7000rpm. 3000rpm stall. I do like lots of midrange grunt though. So street wise the advance will give me some more bottom end, but if I did put it in at 108 I'd see more top end?
What kind of shift point at 106 vs 108 do you guys think I'll have?
Thankie
-Paul </font>[/QUOTE]=
Paul,
You are way over analyzing this deal ;)
Leave it at 106 & run it.
To answer your question, in theory you might raise the numbers 100 rpm or so but engines don't read books :D
Twilightoptics May 17th, 04, 11:39 PM You're right Mike!
"Paul,
If you are satisfied that you have it accurately at 106° int lobe CL, DON'T TOUCH IT! Six degrees advanced is EXACTLY where I like to run them. Lunati grinds everything 4° advanced, but because of the various slight inaccuracies in engines, it's not uncommon for cams to be off 1 or 2 degrees. You'll love it on 106!
Harold"
So I tested the degree again tonight and again came up with 106. Got the pushrod length checked and new Magnum pushrods ordered, timing cover on, oil pickup setup and oil pan on.
Would have done more but I've got a 101º Fever. feelin a bit weak today! So hopefully I'll feel better tomorrow and put the intake on and Wednesday it goes in the car! WOOT!
Thanks guys!
-Paul
Wolfplace May 17th, 04, 11:50 PM Originally posted by Twilightoptics:
You're right Mike!
"Paul,
If you are satisfied that you have it accurately at 106° int lobe CL, DON'T TOUCH IT! Six degrees advanced is EXACTLY where I like to run them. Lunati grinds everything 4° advanced, but because of the various slight inaccuracies in engines, it's not uncommon for cams to be off 1 or 2 degrees. You'll love it on 106!
Harold"
So I tested the degree again tonight and again came up with 106. Got the pushrod length checked and new Magnum pushrods ordered, timing cover on, oil pickup setup and oil pan on.
Would have done more but I've got a 101º Fever. feelin a bit weak today! So hopefully I'll feel better tomorrow and put the intake on and Wednesday it goes in the car! WOOT!
Thanks guys!
-Paul =
Yea, sometimes I just impress the hell out of myself :D :D
Glad you got ahold of Harold so he could set your mind at ease.
Now go make some noise graemlins/thumbsup.gif
427L88 May 18th, 04, 8:52 AM Paul, just to allay some fears, and maybe help 'cool 'ya down', I have my UD cam in +7 and the motor never buzzed to 7000 so quick. So advanced doesn't necccessarily cut top end. It's a small 276/284 solid grind.
Not the 7500 rpm L88 grind, but WAY more punchy and easier to handle on the street.
Shake that fever man.
Twilightoptics May 18th, 04, 1:18 PM Woke up good as new today. After work I'll kick on the shop lights and get some grunt work done!
Mmmmm 7000rpm Small Block :: drool :: Wonder what that sounds like with the cutout open ;)
Twilightoptics May 20th, 04, 10:17 PM So I fired her up today. Wow she's got a lope for being on a 112! Sounds mean too!
Had a few questions for UD-Lunati small block camers....
How much initial timing do they like? I've got 29deg at idle right now and it seems to want more! Started at 24 and it idled a bit rough.
Now that I broke in the cam, do I have to go through and check to see if there is a wiped lobe? Or if I wiped a lobe would it just run like crap from the get go?
Thanks guys!
Motor Martyr May 20th, 04, 10:40 PM check your lash, if ones opened alot, then investigate.
Kinda like CSI ;)
| |