Here's what I got:

Detached garage with no insulation :(

Bare poured cement floor

(1) 20 amp 120 volt circuit

What electric heater would you guys recommend to make things somewhat bearable in the winter?

Propane :). I have 2 propane heaters, 1 high hat which kicks major butt when it's cold out, and one of those cannon heaters, it helps but not as good as the other one. I can have my 30 x 40 heated up in about an hour if both are going full blast. The only problem is when it's really cold out, the propane freezes.

Trailerhouse furnace, they blow the hot air out the bottom. Let it blow across the concrete.

One 20 amp circuit and you want Electric heat for an uninsulated garage. l:)

No gas I assume?

Propane albeit pretty dangerous, is the only answer unless you upgrade the wiring, just don't get overcome by the fumes.

Propane albeit pretty dangerous, is the only answer unless you upgrade the wiring, just don't get overcome by the fumes.
How is propane dangerous 90% of the homes in the tri county area use propane here.

Yeah I know Dean :(

I was hoping to find something electric as I didn't want the risks of explosions or suffocation :eek:

I'm not looking for something to heat the whole garage (obviously that's impossible given the situation), just something for some spot heat where I'm working to keep things bearable.

try an oil burner they work great are cheap to run you burn aproxmitly on quart per hour and if you know the local truck stop techs they will give you all the 55 gal drums you could want free cause it costs them to get rid of the stuff.

Try an EdenPURE... I bought 2 and I think they are great.

I was going to attempt the exact same thing your doing last winter also and gave up on the idea. The problem is, or at least the way I understand it, is that its not practical and even breeds rust when you heat the garage up on an "as needed" basis. The condensation that builds up on tools and parts just causes rust. I have seen some tools of guys that have done this for a few seasons and some of thier tools like like they have been left outside for a summer. Without insulation, its much harder to keep the heat in too.

The garage I use during the nice months is uninsulated and has no heat, however, is attached to the house. The thing is its always best to keep a garage somewhat warm during the winter. Even if its not warm enough for a person to work, at least the humidity will stay low. Without insulation, thats just a waist IMO. When things heat up and then cool, thats where the problem lies.

My suggestion is to first insulate the garage. That will make a huge difference no matter what heat you use. With only a 110V 20A circuit, if you stay with electric only you are pretty much limited to one of the little 110V portable heaters. Doesn't make a whole lot of difference which one. And with a uninsulated garage when it gets cold it ain't gonna cut it. Like peeing into the wind. I use a portable salamander type heater that uses kero or diesel (I use diesel-cheaper) and 110V (just for ignition) in my 30x28 attached garage to quickly warm it up to 60 deg then let a 220V electric heater maintain the temp. I think I paid around $160 for the salamander at Menards. No propane or oil tanks, piping, etc. It will warm my garage from 40 to 60 in about a half hour. With that much heat you only need to run it when you're using the garage so no worries about fire, etc., when you're not there.

It is a waste of time, money and effort to try to heat a garage without insulation. With only 1 20 amp circut electricity is out of the question! You only have to buy insulation once.
If you try a propane heater you will be putting a lot of moisture into the air which isn't good. Salamander type heaters are good for localizing heat but are annoyingly loud and smelly (although using low sulpher fuel helps) and fuel is still expensive.

How is propane dangerous 90% of the homes in the tri county area use propane here.
Right, but those have proper exhaust flues, I was referring to the unvented heaters.
But yes a properly installed LP gas furnace would work IF he could afford the cost of installation and the very high cost of operation.

Actually for that situation, an infrared LP gas would be best for spot heating.
http://www.heater-store.com/master_infrared_heater_10_12_408_prd1.htm

If you just want heat it when you need it get forced kerosene heater with a thermostat. It will warm it up fast also. It will work on a 110 plug. Home Depot and Lowes has'em

http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx

If you can upgrade your electric ,you can use a dayton g73 heater,but it uses 220.Im in the same thing new garage not insulated yet need heat,i have a 100 amp service so im fine for electric,and just had natural gas run to the house this week,but the garage is 125 feet away from the meter.But either way im gone to start insulating this week first,at least get your the ceiling sealed up if your eves are open.

Propane is fine until you have a leak..being heavier than air, it sinks...to the ground, to the the crawlspace, the basement. the lowest point..it sits there, assuming no wind to get rid of it, until an ignition source....pilot light, trouble light, even a light switch being flipped on.. Any spark will ignite......instant bomb...saw films on fire safety several years back..the devastation from an explosion of propane is not to be believed until you see it.. Propane tank leaked and ruptured..left its supports and traveled over 1/2 mile clipping pine trees off at about 15 ft height.. Scared the crap out of me just watching..Natural gas is heavier than air so it is easier dispersed by a breeze...imho, i would stay cold before using propane.

Here is what I am doing for this winter:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320314311615&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

60k kero forced air heater for $36:thumbsup:

I have a 60k hanging natural gas (vented) ready to go next year when I can trench the line.

I only plan to hang out in the garage 1 day a week for 2 hrs. This will get me by. I also have only 15amps out in the garage, so electric is out of the Q.

http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx

If you can upgrade your electric ,you can use a dayton g73 heater,but it uses 220.Im in the same thing new garage not insulated yet need heat,i have a 100 amp service so im fine for electric,and just had natural gas run to the house this week,but the garage is 125 feet away from the meter.But either way im gone to start insulating this week first,at least get your the ceiling sealed up if your eves are open.
That is by far the safest thing to use.
Propane is fine until you have a leak..being heavier than air, it sinks...to the ground, to the the crawlspace, the basement. the lowest point..it sits there, assuming no wind to get rid of it, until an ignition source....pilot light, trouble light, even a light switch being flipped on.. Any spark will ignite......instant bomb...saw films on fire safety several years back..the devastation from an explosion of propane is not to be believed until you see it.. Propane tank leaked and ruptured..left its supports and traveled over 1/2 mile clipping pine trees off at about 15 ft height.. Scared the crap out of me just watching..Natural gas is heavier than air so it is easier dispersed by a breeze...imho, i would stay cold before using propane.
Very true, LP gas is heavier than air so if any leak occurs it lies in puddles in the lower areas which make it so much more dangerous than natural gas.
(I'm sure you meant natural gas is lighter than air)
Here is what I am doing for this winter:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320314311615&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

60k kero forced air heater for $36:thumbsup:

I have a 60k hanging natural gas (vented) ready to go next year when I can trench the line.

I only plan to hang out in the garage 1 day a week for 2 hrs. This will get me by. I also have only 15amps out in the garage, so electric is out of the Q.
The problem(s) with those is they put out moisture and stinky fumes, not to mention the high cost of operation.
I've used them in construction before but the fumes make me sick.

I got a question about garage heaters, I'm loooking at heating my garage and have 220 and a gas line ran for it. I was looking at a natural gas ceiling mount heater which is similar to the g73 in design, then I seen this thread and the g73 has me interested. Which one would be cheaper to run the gas or electric? Thanks, Kevin

The problem(s) with those is they put out moisture and stinky fumes, not to mention the high cost of operation.
I've used them in construction before but the fumes make me sick.

I've used them before, and yes I can only handle the stink for so long. It will have to do for this winter.

It consumes .5 gal/hr. I believe kero costs $4/gal?

Insulate it 1st!

Then buy a little wood stove and go around town and beg for old wooden pallets, use a skill saw and cut them up and burn them. Then take a long piece of brake line and install it in a gallon can that you have a brass petcock on . Mount it up high, insert the end into the top of the little wood stove and after it gets burning, fill the can up w/ used engine oil, adjust the petcock to let it drip into the stove and it won't cost you much at all!

Hang a 20" widow fan up high and let it blow the heat down on low speed!

pdq67

Any chicken farmers in your area ? If so check out a chicken house furnace at one of their houses .my shop is 34 by 48 with open rafters ,it is insulated but outside looks just like a short chicken house with storage shed built on .furnace is propane but was originally nat gas .i can set thermostat to 68 in about 10 minutes it is very warm.i have not yet had to refill tank after several years ,very efficient. Dont remember brand or btu rating but can get for you later if interested .i bought mine used from farm going out of business several years ago. It hangs from ceiling at about eye level.i would post photos but my computer freezes when i try.

Insulate it 1st!

Then buy a little wood stove and go around town and beg for old wooden pallets, use a skill saw and cut them up and burn them. Then take a long piece of brake line and install it in a gallon can that you have a brass petcock on . Mount it up high, insert the end into the top of the little wood stove and after it gets burning, fill the can up w/ used engine oil, adjust the petcock to let it drip into the stove and it won't cost you much at all!

Hang a 20" widow fan up high and let it blow the heat down on low speed!

pdq67
You sure can't beat free wood but NO open flames in any garage within 18" of the floor.

ONLY 1 - 20 amp circuit :eek: I hope your just getting started with this garage!
stay inside the house where the wife :yes: is and its safe and warm
You will need at least :thumbsup: 30amp 220v for electric heat to heat your garage.


in my 30' x 40' garage I have 100 amp to a small electrical panel
2 -15 amp lighting circuits 1 for left 1 for right side of building
2 -20 amps for power on bench, small drink :beers: cooler and 400 watt amp/tuner and speakers total of 8 (i jam :disco:when out there)
2 -20 amps for garage door openers (2) and receptacles at the doors and air compressor
and thats not including the 2 -220v circuits for well and other things.
as for heat I use an old kerosun heater
for cooling, a spot cooler, exhaust fans in the roof, and a B..A.. fan in the door

I like the wood burner idea. If you have a way to haul it you should be able to get wood for free. If there is a tree service working in your area they will sometimes dump a hole load in your driveway for free however you need to plan ahead for that type of thing.

Check out the blue flame heaters that Northern tool sells.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/NTESearch?storeId=6970&N=0&Ntk=All&Ntt=blue%20flame&Nty=1&D=blue%20flame&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial
I bought the Procomm propane unit,30k BTU for my 25x25 insulated garage.
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/177905_lg.gif
Someone here recommended them and i caught it last spring on sale for $199. Home Depot and TSC are carrying them now but they are more expensive there. They are vent free so you get a little odor but not nearly as bad as the torpedo/salamander heaters. its quiet and heats up my garage to 60-65 in under a half hour. i bought the hose adapter so i just hook it up to a bbq cylinder. i will eventually pipe it thru the wall outside to a #40 cylinder.
unless you want to spend a lot on conventional heat id say this is the way to go.

Propane is fine until you have a leak..being heavier than air, it sinks...to the ground, to the the crawlspace, the basement. the lowest point..it sits there, assuming no wind to get rid of it, until an ignition source....pilot light, trouble light, even a light switch being flipped on.. Any spark will ignite......instant bomb...saw films on fire safety several years back..the devastation from an explosion of propane is not to be believed until you see it.. Propane tank leaked and ruptured..left its supports and traveled over 1/2 mile clipping pine trees off at about 15 ft height.. Scared the crap out of me just watching..Natural gas is heavier than air so it is easier dispersed by a breeze...imho, i would stay cold before using propane.


You must be a city boy! Come up north to the rural areas. Propane is in 99.9% of the homes! If properly plumbed it is safe but you should aways have propane leak detectors.

I personally have a propane Reznor hanging furnace in my shop along with a waste oil burner. My attached 2+ car garage has a 220 electric Dayton heater to keep the wifey happy.

Propane :). I have 2 propane heaters, 1 high hat which kicks major butt when it's cold out, and one of those cannon heaters, it helps but not as good as the other one. I can have my 30 x 40 heated up in about an hour if both are going full blast. The only problem is when it's really cold out, the propane freezes.

The freeze point of propane is -310 F..........I'd move somewhere else. :eek:

Down south we do have a lot of propane, also heat pumps coming on strong...natural gas in cities, just scared of propane, thats all...if natural gas is available, run underground pipe and hook up a used forced air furnace...i just got thru hooking up a 65,000 btu furnace with a ductboard trunk line across attic of 30 x 50 shop, dropped 8-8" celing diffusers...now just waiting on cold weather:yes:

do what I did, I was in the same boat last year with my 28 x32 gambrel garage, I bought used insulation for a reduced price off craigslist, and found a propane rinnai wall heater for free!!..all in all I can have it 70 dgs. in about 20 mins in there...out of pocket it cost me all of 100 bucks...

20 amp circuit on 110 will get you about 5000btu, and that will hardly make a dent in an unsulated building. If it is really cold, you would find that even 50,000btu might not be enough, so you need to insulate, insulate, and insulate some more.

My hanging chicken house furnace is 200000 btuh and 115 volts and was installed by myself in about 2 hours.made by l.b.white co in onalaska wi.

My hanging chicken house furnace is 200000 btuh and 115 volts and was installed by myself in about 2 hours.made by l.b.white co in onalaska wi.

Electric?
How many amps?
You sure you didn't put too many zeros?