I just posted a few pics of my "opening" Smuggler's Box lid set up on the 65. At least I have a place to put my toolbox and real jack now. What do you think? Thanks,

Posted where? Link?

Sorry, in the Showroom. My bad.

That's pretty neat. You can now say it's not wasted space. I noticed that you removed the supports on the bottom. Is the floor strong enough for any kind of weight or is it flimsy?

Looks great Ed. Beautiful job. Did you use a piano hinge on it? Thats a very solid looking support on the bottom. It should eliminate any rattles in the cover. Have you had a chance to drive it since you got it back from painting? Thanks for posting. I've been wanting to do this to mine for over a year. I'll be happy if it turns out half as nice as yours.:hurray:

Link to first picture: http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showphoto.php/photo/16968/limit/recent Looks real good. Did you weld the bracing yourself?

Whats the thing in the middle, a solenoid to unlatch it?

Love the way the lid looks as a whole, got me thinking. :cool:

thats a great set-up you got there !!!!!!!:hurray::hurray::yes::beers::thumbsup:

I like it. Instead of a cable ever think about picking up a cheep door popper solenoid? You could then wire it into a button under the dash and or an alarm system on the car, push of a button and magic it would open up! My thing with that area has never been thinking about a way to get it open and close but how to actually get it to seal so water would not make it in. Ideas?

To answer a few of the questions - the floor is just a continuation of the floor pan so it is pretty sturdy. I will paint on a bed liner in the cavity to make it damage resistant when carrying "stuff". The "thing" in the middle is a spring loaded door latch from McMaster Carr. I wanted to use a mechanical release to assure I could always get it open when needed. The actuating cable is a rear bicycle brake cable and lever mounted inside out of the way. I plan on carrying the obligatory tool box there and if an electrical issue comes along, I may need the tool box. I welded the support frame from 1" sq. tubing to give full support if or when I want to haul the HD there - but that is kind of unlikely. I will try to make it relatively dust proof, but it will never be water resistant. i am leaving a couple of 1/4" drain holes in the 2 low spots. There is no vibration or noise from it on the road. The gas truts hold some upward tension on it when closed. They came from McMaster-Carr too. They are 30# lift each and are about 19.5" long. Thanks for the comments. I probably spent too much time on it, but I can say that about the entire car - can't we all? Ed

i used 3M strip caulk, twisted 2 strands together, placed it around the perimeter of the hole and put painters masking tape on the bottom side of the lid so the strip caulk wouldnt stick to it very easily. working for now!

Wonder if you used like an 1/8 or 1/4 type of weatherstrip around the edge and used a Dzus fastener or two if that would help keep the weather out.

Used a spray type liner in my box, seems like the ideal place to keep a few tools, extra belts, stuff. Just in case and they dont clutter up the area behind the seat.

I never understood why Chevy didn't design that spot like that in the first place! Or at least make such a thing available as an option.

I guess the few times I actually do expose it to bad weather, I will just open it and dry it out. Too much effort to get it "sorta" wet proofed - may as well let in and right on out the bottom.

Ed, would like to copy your great idea for mine:thumbsup: ,(hope thats ok) need to get into to service my airride system,and would look cool also. What kind of hinge did you use in the front? any pic when you had on bench? like your design of the manual pull .

I think we should all send out lids to Ed at the same time .Braces and struts...
Whaddya say :D

I think we should all send out lids to Ed at the same time .Braces and struts...
Whaddya say :D

Good Idea:D Thank Ed got the pm. Greg Biz

I have the smuggler's box on my Elky too. I started with a hood latch setup from a Honda car of some sort and eventually wound up with an electric ram. I have my battery, tool box, and jumper cables stored in mine. The only down side is if I have electrical issues I may not be able to open the lid.

I have the smuggler's box on my Elky too. I started with a hood latch setup from a Honda car of some sort and eventually wound up with an electric ram. I have my battery, tool box, and jumper cables stored in mine. The only down side is if I have electrical issues I may not be able to open the lid.

Thats why I liked Eds idea,a hidden pull cable,no power,no problem, got any pics of your smuggler's box Herb?

The only down side is if I have electrical issues I may not be able to open the lid.

Good thinking...I can only imagine if you had to disconnect the battery in a hurry and the cover was bolted down. Ouch. :(

Thats why I liked Eds idea,a hidden pull cable,no power,no problem, got any pics of your smuggler's box Herb?

Here's some pics of mine. It's a little dirty inside because it's not completely sealed.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii131/hlumpp/El%20Camino/Smugglers%20Box/DSC00056.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii131/hlumpp/El%20Camino/Smugglers%20Box/DSC00055.jpg

I found this seal at one of the chain parts places. It's made out of sturdy rubber, not the typical weather stripping material...
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii131/hlumpp/El%20Camino/Smugglers%20Box/DSC00054.jpg

The open/close switch is mounted on the driver side post...
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii131/hlumpp/El%20Camino/Smugglers%20Box/DSC09066.jpg

We welded the bolt heads in place so when it's closed you can't tell it opens...
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii131/hlumpp/El%20Camino/Smugglers%20Box/DSC09065.jpg

We welded the bolt heads in place so when it's closed you can't tell it opens...


I love it!! Great idea, noone would guess. :thumbsup:

That looks awesome, I never thought of this, but its a great idea.
Van

I had a hard time deciding what to do with the smugglers box on my 67. I wanted a perfect 100% stock looking, polished bed,,, and accomplished that (http://www.small-block-chevy.com/Elkybk3.JPG). Thought seriously about having Ricks Tanks build a custom fuel tank to bolt down in the smugglers box, so I could build a 'behind the bumper' spare tire carrier under the rear (cable carry like on new pickups). I just couldn't find / figure any way to get fuel from the stock fuel door to the smugglers box without having to hack the inside of the bed or the wheelwell. Almost,, ALMOST.. moved the fuel door forward of the wheel opening to make this work. It just seems like the perfect place for a fuel tank, and gives you room to put the stupid spare out from behind the seats! In the end I wound up with screws holding the cover down and a lot of 'what if' ideas that never panned out. You guys have made some ingenious use of a seriously wasted space. Very cool!

Just checked in - sure, if you all want to send the lids and parts to me - I'll have a field day on Evilbay with all those goodies. Ed

Here's some pics of mine. It's a little dirty inside because it's not completely sealed.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii131/hlumpp/El%20Camino/Smugglers%20Box/DSC00056.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii131/hlumpp/El%20Camino/Smugglers%20Box/DSC00055.jpg

I found this seal at one of the chain parts places. It's made out of sturdy rubber, not the typical weather stripping material...
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii131/hlumpp/El%20Camino/Smugglers%20Box/DSC00054.jpg

The open/close switch is mounted on the driver side post...
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii131/hlumpp/El%20Camino/Smugglers%20Box/DSC09066.jpg

We welded the bolt heads in place so when it's closed you can't tell it opens...
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii131/hlumpp/El%20Camino/Smugglers%20Box/DSC09065.jpg
Welding the bolts,what a excellent idea,that seal looks like it would work well ? thanks for sharing the pics Herb.With Ed & your ideas, I can start mine this week:yes:

Welding the bolts,what a excellent idea,that seal looks like it would work well ? thanks for sharing the pics Herb.With Ed & your ideas, I can start mine this week:yes:

The seal does work pretty good, it's by the hinge where the water gets in. I have a few drain holes to allow it to drain.

No problem, glad I could help. Have fun and enjoy your new "trunk" when you're done!

You could always line X in there for rust protection,as it looks like what showbiz has done to the bed on his.

Those both look really good!
Any detail shots of the hinge joint and how its attached? Looks to be fairly well hidden from the top, or is that just the angle the photo was taken?
:thumbsup:

Those both look really good!
Any detail shots of the hinge joint and how its attached? Looks to be fairly well hidden from the top, or is that just the angle the photo was taken?
:thumbsup:

If you're referring to mine, yes, the hinge is hidden pretty good. My hinge is welded to the bottom of the panel and the top of the flange to goes around the space. A friend of mine bolted his hinge in place so he could remove it if/when he needed to.

Shobiz - I like yours too, obviously you took a lot of time on it,

Someone asked about the piano hinge attachment - I welded studs to the side of the hinge which goes to the built in body flange where the lid originally bolted down. I welded the top side of the hinge to the lid - just tacked in stitches on each of the ribs. The hinge was a 60" piano hinge without pre-drilled holes, that way I could match the existing holes in the body flange and not have all the other holes to deal with. If nothing else, It'll be a conversation starter with the civilians when I tell them it was an optional accessory in the day.

I hinged the panel on my 65 also. I got the idea when I saw Yelcamino's 66 at Chevellabration. Beautiful car. Piano hinge in the front welded to the lid on one side at bolted to the body. Also welded a frame work under the lid to stiffen it. Welded all the original bolt holes shut for a smooth look. Also used an electric actuator to open and close it like Yelcamino but on the floor end of the actuator I have a pin in the mount instead of a bolt. It has a cable attached to it so in case of a failure I can reach through the access panel behind the seat, grab the cable and pull the pin. I painted the floor in the box with splatter paint and clear coated it. Wish I knew how to post pictures..Mark

...but on the floor end of the actuator I have a pin in the mount instead of a bolt. It has a cable attached to it so in case of a failure I can reach through the access panel behind the seat, grab the cable and pull the pin. I painted the floor in the box with splatter paint and clear coated it. Wish I knew how to post pictures..Mark

Hey, that's a good idea! :yes: I think I'll look into a way to change my bolt to a pull pin.

I remember seeing that Keith Anderson did this to his 70 L78 El Camino. Always thought that was a trick idea.

here are some pics of my smugglers box i just finished this week....kustom!

http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n452/wreckfixer/elkypics012.jpg

http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n452/wreckfixer/elkypics013.jpg

http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n452/wreckfixer/elkypics011.jpg

Looks good. Makes me wonder why the General didn't do something like this as a regular production feature in the day. The actual cost would have been overridden by the utility of the storage.

Piano hinge$11.00,stick of baby channel $12.00,a few bolts, some locks I had laying around,weatherstrip $10.00,12 pack of bud select $12.50 a few evenings in the garage working on your hot rod... PRICELESS!!!

Who says we tinkerers have no artistic talent! Miller Light works for me - brings out the creative juices. If we got REAL creative, we would drop one of those pop-up rear seats from a SUV into the Smuggler's Box cavity and close the lid!

Ed, can you tell me where you found the correct size hindge with out the predrilled holes?? I was hoping to find a stainless hindge.

I found it in the McMaster-Carr on line catalog. I bought the 5 ft/60 in. one and cut it to fit. I also bought the gas strut from them - they are 19 1/2" long extended and 30 lb. lift capacity each, if you go that way.

Ed, Where did you fing that spring loaded door latch. I can't find it in the McMaster online catalog. But I did find the struts and hindge. Thanks for the info.

Thats pretty cool I am going to put my battery under mine I will have to some cuting to make it fit but I thank it will be better then having to see it in the bed.

The spring loaded catch was in the same catalog. Look in the door latches, cabinet latches, tool box latches, etc. It had a light weight chain and a pull loop attached to it which I took off to hook up the cable.

65elcamino - the McMasrter-Carr part # for the latch is 1437A1 and is called a chain-pull, spring loaded steel slide bolt. 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" - 1/2" extension. A lot of name for just a latch!

I looked it up from the shipping papers.

I got to thinking,if A guy wanted to couldn't you cut out a spare tire well,then cut the back of the smugglers box,weld in the afore mentioned tire well horizontally and have a very nice and disreet place for your spare and jack? just a thought:confused: