Polishing Lifter Valley......What to Use? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Polishing Lifter Valley......What to Use?


Cable
Jan 21st, 05, 2:35 AM
I am thinking about polishing my lifter valley and wondered what type of bit/stone I should use on my air tool (like a dremel, except bigger and air powered).

Thanks guys!!

greg etts
Jan 21st, 05, 2:44 AM
i used medium and fine dremel stones folowed by flapper wheels.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/panchop/MVC-430F.jpg

Cable
Jan 21st, 05, 2:49 AM
WOW!!!

That is incredible. You actually used a dremel for the whole thing? I own a dremel, I just figured it would be easier with a air tool.

If you lived closer I'd pay you to do that for all my motors. Man, you could eat off that if you wanted!!

Right now I was just thinking of doing my 400.

dittoz
Jan 21st, 05, 8:35 AM
Not that you haven't done BEAUTIFUL work there Cable, but I'm curious...

Once the motor is all bolted up and hidden, what does that polishing job accomplish? Three's no air flow there and enough oil should flow that a little resistance from casting roughage wouldn't affect anything I shouldn't think.

So, other than general "fastidiousness", is there a benefit achieved from doing that?
:confused: :confused: :confused:

baddbob71
Jan 21st, 05, 9:30 AM
I've been told this is no longer a recomended thing to do, surface texture adds more surface area when it is rough and also transfers heat better than a smooth surface, your oil needs to transfer the heat to the block so the coolant within the block will take it away. Maybe I'm wrong here and misinformed but that's what I've heard. Bob

torquemaster
Jan 21st, 05, 12:05 PM
You are completely right baddbob71! The rough area transfers the heat a WHOLE lot better... Just eliminate the casting flash and clean up the oil drain back holes.
Matt

novaderrik
Jan 21st, 05, 1:52 PM
but the polishing adds AT LEAST 20 hp- if you have a polished intake and polised or shrome valve covers, that's another 20hp or so..
some say the benefits of better oil drainback to the pan offsets the loss in cooling efficiency.
plus, it just looks cool if you ever have to take the intake back off.

Cable
Jan 21st, 05, 2:07 PM
Originally posted by novaderrik:

plus, it just looks cool if you ever have to take the intake back off. Hell, if I did it I might have a glass intake made just to show off. :D

Fried_Guy
Jan 21st, 05, 3:01 PM
I just smoothed out the oil drain back holes with my dremel. I got in there real deep too to make sure there was no sand or rough spots in there.

Here's some pics:
http://www.goprp.com/extra/oil-1.JPG
http://www.goprp.com/extra/oil-2.JPG
http://www.goprp.com/extra/oil-3.JPG
http://www.goprp.com/extra/oil-4.JPG
http://www.goprp.com/extra/oil-5.JPG
http://www.goprp.com/extra/oil-6.JPG

greg etts
Jan 21st, 05, 3:38 PM
is it more then neccesery, sure. still there was a lot of grit that was not that well seated. i didn't want to paint over it as i didn't trust the paint not to peel and i don't see anything wrong with clean, cleaner , cleanest. i am not that really worried about oil return. besides waiting for parts or money it is something to do with the engine. you should see how clean the oil passages are. smile.gif

PS none of my exterior parts are polished. go figure, not even the supercharger

jobberone
Jan 21st, 05, 9:36 PM
they used to shellac that area. Just a way to clog things up though. If you want more oil use a windage tray, better pickups, bigger pan or go dry.

Looks pretty though.