Well ive gotten a 12.11 @ 113 on my secong time out, and 11's are in the bag with some better driving. Then after this winter im going to do a cam swap and intake swap, possibly headers if i can find a willing trader.
First question,
-Has anyone gone from a Weiand Team G to a Super victor or similar manifold? How did that work out? Ive read about LARGE gains on swaps like that and im curious.
-Second question
After the winter my combo may look as follows, what do you all think
-11:1 350, Eagle 4340 crank and rods, SRP pistons
-Brodix RR200 heads, CNC chambers
-Super Victor {swap from Team G}
-750 mighty demon
-Isky Z-60 292 adv., 259@.050, .548 lift on a 108, Swapping from a Howard 302/310, 268/278@.050, .562/.570, on a 108
-1 7/8" primarys, 3 1/2 collector. i know, iknow and im looking for somone to swap 1 3/4" super comp headers with.
-Richmond 5 speed
-9" ford with 4.11 gears {acts like 5.0X gears with the tranny}
I think this is much more optimal,what do you all think?

I switched from a ported (gasket matched and plenum blended) Team G to an out of the box Super Victor on my old 383 SBC and saw no difference in performance.

the cam is still on the large side, and i would pick a dual pattern cam.

1-5/8" Headers!

Put an RPM air gap on the motor.

I say 1 3/4 header just because your planing on top end power and you have enough low end grunt with your "5x transmission" and 4.11 gears. They will probably compliment your heads and cam better???

For the cam you are planning, I think a Victor Jr. would be a better choice (I'm not familiar with the Team G but the V Jr. is excellent). The cam should like the 11:1 motor (8.47 DCR, fine for racing, a bit high for the street, you might need race gas). I think 1-5/8 headers will be fine but 1-3/4 will work.

i didnt think the DCR would be that high....im looking for somthing comfortable on 91 octane, not looking to push the limits

I think I made a boo boo. I recalculated and the DCR is probably closer to 8.40. If you install the cam with 2º advance, the DCR drops to 8.257. Which will work with pump gas. At the CR you want, 2º will work great. One of the main reasons for advancing the cam is to close the intake earlier, trapping more charge. Since you have plenty of compression, this isn't necessary. With the extra compression, opening the exhaust a bit later will not hurt anything either. It will allow you to extract an bit more power out of each power stroke. If the CR were lower, this might cost some power.

I have the Brodix 200CC Race Rites on a 406, and those heads love the large exhaust runners. I have the 1 7/8 Hooker Super comps as well. 1 5/8 will 100% not fit, as we tried my old set from my 355 motor. Did not clear the plugs, and the slightly raised Exhaust runner made the 1 5/8 unworkable.
I don't know what numbers you have from Brodix on your 200's, but mine were flowed twice to confirm the numbers. The Brodix 200 CNC RR's basically flow like full CNC AFR 210 to .500 lift, then flow the same as a Vic Jr from .550 to .650. For me on the street, the RPM Air Gap, makes tons of TQ for me down low. For you, I would thing a Vic Jr, or Sr for the top end, as these heads flow real good air all over the lift range.
The sweet spot on these heads seems to be just at or over the .600 lift, so keep that in mind for a cam change.

Your headers might be fine. You're running a 3.27 1st gear Richie, or higher. That, with your 4.11's means the motor is well past the peak header torque of the small pipes in an instant. IMHO you gain NOTHING by swapping to 1.625" pipes, although 1.75s might be optimal.

Guys, when you give advice, one size doesnt fit all. Please note the gears he is running and the fact that he's shifting this puppy well north of 7000 rpm. ( guessing, but with much mellower gearing , the 427 shifts at 6800.)

Originally posted by 427L88:
Your headers might be fine. You're running a 3.27 1st gear Richie, or higher. That, with your 4.11's means the motor is well past the peak header torque of the small pipes in an instant. IMHO you gain NOTHING by swapping to 1.625" pipes, although 1.75s might be optimal.

Guys, when you give advice, one size doesnt fit all. Please note the gears he is running and the fact that he's shifting this puppy well north of 7000 rpm. ( guessing, but with much mellower gearing , the 427 shifts at 6800.) you will find 1.5" tube headers on MANY stock eliminator rides in the mid-low 11 second range, running much bigger gears then 4.10, and turning more RPM's then 7000.

What will help him ET is shift recovery, and coming out of the hole strong, you need alot of velocity in the header tubes to accomplish this.

you will find 1.5" tube headers on MANY stock eliminator rides in the mid-low 11 second range, running much bigger gears then 4.10, and turning more RPM's then 7000.

What will help him ET is shift recovery, and coming out of the hole strong, you need alot of velocity in the header tubes to accomplish this. I disagree. With that kind of ist gear, and this combo, I'll bet the engine never sees the low side of 5000 rpm the whole way down the 1/4.

Those 1.5" stock eliminator headers are not off-the-shelf items, and not everyone has the fabrication skills to make a trick custom set.

With smaller headers and more power on the lower side of his RPM range, he would be ETing better, and more then likely would not need to shift at 7500rpms.

By comparison i have a Motor, which right now is making similar ET's. But their are plenty of differences.

You guys know my engine combo, and my ideas on making power.

I'm effectively making the same ET's, shifting at 6000rpms, going through the traps at 5800rpms.

Thats not quite a fair comparison...you have 30 cubes..lighter car..and an automatic..I guess it comes down to your approach...and not everyone wants a stock eliminator...nothing like the sound of a wingin SBC

I think Pat meant to say retard it 2 degrees, didn't you Pat??

pdq67

No, 2º positive advance instead of the usually 4-6º. A 108º LSA installed at 106º.

well if you havent read my other post yet i went 11.88 @ 114 tonight. Shifting @ 7,000. So i definately need to back off the cam to somthing that wants to peak more around 7,000 instead of 7500-8,000. This would in turn pull harder off the shift and to 7,000, allowing me to reduce my gears {my rear gears grenaded themselves on the next pass tonight} And pull harder to 7,000 there fore decreasing my ET and upping my MPH

exactly what i've been saying :D

good stuff, an 11.88 is crankin' in hot weather, wait until the nice late fall air comes around, and you'll see a big improvement if you can HOOK it!