I'm currently in the middle of a frame off on my 66 Chevelle SS. I've been doing the body work for which seems like forever. I'm finishing up with the body filler, I had alot of dents to smooth out and put filler on. The car was originally stripped and primered with DP90. I sanded this off the dents to bare metal when I put the filler on so I have alot of filler spots all around the car as you can see from this link: http://www.chevelless.com/chevelle66begin6.htm

Anyway, I was wanting to start with the filler primer, most likely slicksand, but I wasn't sure If I should reprime these spots where I have filler and some bare metal. I was worried about rust because I don't think that the slick sand does anything about protecting it against rust.

Should I recoat the whole car with DP90, or just shoot the affected areas with DP90, or just start with the build primer and go from there.

Thanks much for any advice or help

Corey

www.ChevelleSS.com

slicksand goes right on primer (not etch primer) filler and metal. Get a 2.0 gun to spray it. And then sand block it FOREVER!!

I'm currently in the middle of a frame off on my 66 Chevelle SS. I've been doing the body work for which seems like forever. I'm finishing up with the body filler, I had alot of dents to smooth out and put filler on. The car was originally stripped and primered with DP90. I sanded this off the dents to bare metal when I put the filler on so I have alot of filler spots all around the car as you can see from this link: http://www.chevelless.com/chevelle66begin6.htm

Anyway, I was wanting to start with the filler primer, most likely slicksand, but I wasn't sure If I should reprime these spots where I have filler and some bare metal. I was worried about rust because I don't think that the slick sand does anything about protecting it against rust.

Should I recoat the whole car with DP90, or just shoot the affected areas with DP90, or just start with the build primer and go from there.

Thanks much for any advice or help

Corey

www.ChevelleSS.com (http://www.ChevelleSS.com)

There are many methods depending on who is doing the work, but I'll offer up my tried-and-true technique here:

I've never used slicksand, so I can't speak to it specifically, but I can offer some advice in filler primers that I like to use and has worked out well for me.

If you don't have any visible surface rust beginning on bare metal, I'd hit it with the filler primer and go at it from there. There should be enough DP-90 in the cracks and crevices already, assuming it was prepped right before the old DP-90 was shot on it.

Hit all of your filler areas first a couple of times with the primer, then lay down a couple of heavy coats over the entire car before you start your blocking (assuming anything else on the car in DP-90 has been scuffed up already). Then guide coat it. Then block the whole car, until the guidecoat is gone. I used to do it with 150-180 dry first, then after another coat of primer, 600 wet. Use the largest sanding board possible on any given area. Don't use paper on your hand unless you really know what you are doing.

This way, when you start, you already have some build up on the areas you need to focus on, and enough material applied to soak into the filler. Blocking with 150 dry cuts much quicker than 600 wet, so don't overdo it. You won't sand thru it so quick though if you hit your repair areas first with the filler primer. Hard to explain, but trust me here.

After you get it to where you think it's level after block sanding the 1st time, hose the whole car down again in high build primer; 3 good wet coats, guidecoat and block it all out again with a finer paper, wet (600 wetsand). It should be ready to seal with dp-90 at that point, but any small imperfections can be touched up with glazing putty, re-sprayed with primer, and re-blocked...and then shoot the sealer and color after that. It's time consuming, and costs more, but you'll catch more of the smaller imperfections and wind up with a much straighter paint job in the end. Bodywork is all about patientce. If you don't have any, you'll wind up with an "ocean" car...one that waves back at you. :p

Another tip, as you sand the primer on the second go around wet, sight down the car with the wet panels...you'll see anything you missed because it looks like glossy paint and shows imperfections.

It's hard to explain all this in text, so if you have any questions, let me know, I'd be glad to try and help. :thumbsup:

www.howardsbackyardautobody.com :beers:

Be SURE to use good long sanding blocks. That makes all the difference in the world. At a minimum have a rigid 16" long board for filler work and a 16" flexible Durablock (cheapest but the kind with removable rods for adjustable flexibility are better and cost much more) for blocking. Also some makeshift blocks like pipe with pipe insulation on it to fit different body contours. A set of Durablocks is effective and economical. They require the sticky-back sandpaper which isn't cheap but more economical to buy by the roll. I used 36 and 80 grit to rough out filler with the rigid long board and 80, 220, and 320 sticky-back to block with on the Durablock.