I have a 64 Chevelle 283/powerglide car with bench seat, column shift. I bought an Lt-1/4L60E Auto setup for the car to do a swap. However, I recently came across a wrecked 94 Z28 with the T56 in it. I can get it for $2000, maybe less. It has 141,000 miles on it. I'm thinking about buying the car and being able to use the tranny, pedals, fuel tank, wiring harness, computer, etc. I'm trying to talk myself into buying it and doing the swap with the 6speed. I plan on parting out whatever I dont use, then junking out the car when finished with it. Also, wondering if anyone has ever put one of the disc brake posi rear ends out of the lt-1 camaros under a chevelle? Or if the width would be right? Obviously, new brackets would have to be fabricated and welded on. Just curious if this could be done? Or if the rear end was weaker than an 8.2'' open 10 bolt thats in my car now. Is $2000 for the whole car a good deal?

$2000 sounds like a pretty good deal. I would definitely go for the T56 over the 4L60

The rear brakes are a direct bolt-on to Chevelle 10 and 12-bolt rears. The Camaro rear is very weak... much weaker than an 8.2"

So I could put rear discs on my stock 8.2'' rear end just by removing my drums and backing plates and bolting the stock brakes from the 94 camaro on? Would a FW code 15x7'' Ralley wheel fit with those disc brakes on the rear? Could any of the front brake parts from the 94 camaro be used on the chevelle?

I just put an LT1 T56 from a 93z28 into my 65 442. I used the engine trans, wiring, radiator, clutch hyrdaulics, fans, fuel lines, and other small parts to make the swap easier and more facory looking. You have to use the chevelle pedal set which is easy enough to make work with the factory hydraulic clutch. Also cannot use the camaro gas tank, I used one from a 95 caprice to keep a factory style in tank pump cheaply. I was going to use the rear disc brakes as well but they really arent needed, more of a wow factor than function, but they will bolt up to an early chevy rear with some work. T56 is nice to have, dont need 6th gear until 70mph and even then the engine is loafing. I put about 500 miles on it in a couple months and it never missed a beat along with around 18mpg average with mostly around town driving. I built it over the summer so only have only been able to drive it since august. $2000 is a good price for the car, the T56 conversion alone is worth $1500.

also no camaro front brake parts would work on the chevelle and I think you need a 16" wheel to clear the rear discs, but I can check it this weekend. I have other LT1 cars here I can try a wheel on.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d136/drptop70ss/stuff002-4.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d136/drptop70ss/stuff003-1.jpg

Dave,

What did you do for the speedometer with your T56 in your 65 442? Do they require the VSS like the 4L60E does or is it manual speedo pickup? Did you use the factory LT-1 bolt on brackets and the alternator, power steering pump, etc from your donor car? I've heard you have to notch the frame if you use the stock setup on an LT-1. Did you have to modify your transmission tunnel or the floorpans to get the tranny in there? Thanks for all the info!

the T56 has a VSS just a different pulse output than the 4l60E. I made my own cluster with a digital speedo and it works great, the chevelle has round pods so you could wire in an aftermarket electric speedo no problem.
Front accessories and brackets are all stock F body other than I installed an A/C delete pulley in place of the compressor since I dont have A/C. No frame mods needed with my setup, not sure if you would have to notch anything if you kept the compressor.
No floor pan mods but I did cut out my trans tunnel and raise it up a couple inches so I could get the correct 3 degree down angle on the driveline. Mine had already been butchered for a couple different shifter installs so I just welded up a new top for the tunnel.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d136/drptop70ss/stuff032.jpg

I got the guy down to $1750 for the whole car over the phone today... So I'm thinking I should prob buy the whole car. I'm going to head down there this weekend and take a look at it. What digital speedometer did you use?

I made my own cluster, speedo unit itself is from a 95 caprice.

www.t56kit.com has all the goodies you'll need to swap the trans in.

They used my 67 as a prototype, so I know it fits! LOL

You will have to alter the trans tunnel, as mentioned. Otherwise it's pretty easy with the kit.

I have 3.89:1 gears and get around 20 mpg.

I'll be using a converter box to keep my stock speedo with the T56

Scotch, thanks for the link for the t56kit... It'll come in handy for reference. However the kit is out of my price range. I'll be doing all the adapting myself to save me some money. However, where are you looking at for that convertor box to keep you stock speedo with the t-56? I'm looking for ideas of how to do that...
Thanks

Scotch, where are you looking at for that convertor box to keep you stock speedo with the t-56? I'm looking for ideas of how to do that...
Thanks

There are a few- here are the ones I've heard the best things about:

http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TC&Product_Code=377300

I know Auto Meter makes one too, but I've not been able to find a link to it.

Scotch, thanks for the links!

I finally got a chance to look at the wrecked camaro over the weekend. THe front corner was hit pretty hard, but it looks like all the accessories on the engine arent touched, and the radiator looks to be good. Only thing missing was the console. And I picked it up for $1600!! Now I have a lot more work to do!

Nice score! The T56 and all the parts that go along with it are worth that. :) Basically, the rest of the car is free. :)

I've heard with the T56 there are multiple places to locate the shifter. Is this only on aftermarket T56's or will my stock be this way as well? I'm trying to figure out what interior I'm going with. I kind of want to do aftermarket buckets and make a console, etc. On the other hand, my car was a bench seat car... I think it would be neat to have the bench seat with an old Hurst style shift lever to make it look like a 3 or 4 speed. Or go with buckets and a stock 4 speed console if it would fit with the 6 speed? Any suggestions?

I run a bench seat with my T56 and it fits just fine.

I have a short Hurst shifter in there now, but I recently picked up a slightly longer shifter arm and an old-school T-handle. This stuff will all be installed over the winter.

I got my T56 from Rockland Standard, but it uses a factory case. The rear mounting point for the shifter was used and it fits perfectly. I don't like consoles with bench seats, so I just run the Hurst floor boot and I like it.

Because my bench seat is an aftermarket piece, and the trans tunnel is custom made to clear the T56, and the mount kit for the T56 is also aftermarket (from ATS), everything might not end up in the exact same place on your car. However, it's GOT to be really damn close since the same components are being used.

Personally, if there was anything I didn't LOVE about my setup, I'd change it. I really like where everything is, and it works flawlessly, so I can confidently recommend you do the same.

The only issue you may have is how close the bench seat will come to the shifter when you're in second, fourth, and sixth. Naturally, a little mockup work will ensure you have the clearance you need when mounting everything, and if it means limiting how far the seat can move forward, so be it. I've seen bench seats with a notch in the center for clearance here, but it was not necessary in my case.

I'm 6 feet tall, so if I was 5'8" this might make a difference, but if there was a problem I'd try a different shifter arm with a forward bend before I'd cut a notch into my seat.

If you want to see some pics of my setup, I'll snap a few. I don't have any now because I'm not 'done' with the interior yet...it's not as nice as I'd like it to be. But if it'll help you get a better idea what to do with your car, I'll happily pop a few snaps.

I've let plenty of other people drive my car as hard as they'd like, and everyone has commented on the comfort and natural feel it has. The shifter is 'where it's supposed to be' and the car is a joy to drive in anger.

(Having a 545-horse small-block ahead of the T56 MAY have something to do with this, by the way...)

If there's anything more I can share with you, just name it. You will not like having the T56, you will LOVE it. The deep first gear gets you off the line quickly, the short throws let you bang through the gears like a pro, and the overdrives in 5th and 6th deliver great mileage. The factory hydraulic clutch setup requires minimal pedal effort, and if you're running a beefy clutch (I've got a Centerforce DF) you don't feel it.

I've made a lot of mods to my wagon, but the T56 is the one others who have driven the car keep bringing up.

Well, that and the 13.5-inch, 6-piston brakes. They really work well too.

~Scotch~

Scotch,
I would love to see pics of your interior with the bench seat and 6 speed. I didnt think it would clear... I was wanting to do an old school T handle or white knob look with the old hurst shifter shaft.

Just an update: I worked on the donor car (camaro) today and got it stripped down. I removed the engine/tranny and all the wiring out of it today!

Scotch, how do you like the slave bracket, got any pics?

I had one made back in 00 that works good but wondering if theres a better one out there. This stuff wasnt around when I did mine.

How long do your slaves hold up?

Do you mean the bracket that bolts in behind the brake booster and aligns the slave to the clutch pedal? If so, I'm using the one from ATS and it lined up perfectly and works flawlessly. I've not had to think about it since it was installed, which is the way all parts should be!

I can shoot a pic if you'd like, or you can see it on the ATS website. Let me know!

~S~

I'd like a bit more info on the trans tunnel mods. Did you just slice down the top of it and spread it open? Or cut it near the floor line and lift the whole tunnel up? I need to get working on putting my Gen1 SBC and t56 in my 65 Skylark soon.

Also, what motor mounts were used?

I'm replacing the floor pans as I go. So when I cut my floorpans out, I left an inch or two around where my mark is so I'll be able to cut the hump out and move it up as I weld the new floor pan halves in. I plan on making my own brackets to hold the clutch master cylinder, and making my own tranny crossmember. My biggest worry is the wiring harness for the LT1! It looks like a huge mess!

I'd like a bit more info on the trans tunnel mods. Did you just slice down the top of it and spread it open? Or cut it near the floor line and lift the whole tunnel up? I need to get working on putting my Gen1 SBC and t56 in my 65 Skylark soon.

Also, what motor mounts were used?

We cut mine from the floor line up, since it had to be a little wider and a little taller than the stock tunnel would allow. We had to cut from the firewall to just past the output yoke on the new trans to insure adequate clearance with the trans mounted on the new crossmember. The new trans tunnel went about halfway back through the passenger compartment.

I was working with a metal fabricator on the deal, so he just bent up a new tunnel (over his knee- talented SOB!) rather than trying to use any of the original floor.

The only issue (?) I'm dealing with as a result is the need for a bit wider carpet. Not a big deal.

Do you mean the bracket that bolts in behind the brake booster and aligns the slave to the clutch pedal? If so, I'm using the one from ATS and it lined up perfectly and works flawlessly. I've not had to think about it since it was installed, which is the way all parts should be!

I can shoot a pic if you'd like, or you can see it on the ATS website. Let me know!

~S~

A pic would be great, how much was it?

Do not even bother with the Z28 rear. It is weaker than what you have in it now.

Do you mean the bracket that bolts in behind the brake booster and aligns the slave to the clutch pedal? If so, I'm using the one from ATS and it lined up perfectly and works flawlessly. I've not had to think about it since it was installed, which is the way all parts should be!

I can shoot a pic if you'd like, or you can see it on the ATS website. Let me know!

~S~

Scott, do you have an angle finder? If so could you slap an angle finder on the part of your bracket that the clutch master cyinder bolts too? I would like to know what that angle is. If its too hard to get to under your booster, then dont worry about it...

Thanks!

A pic would be great, how much was it?

I looked it up on the ATS website. The bracket is laser cut and powdercoated and it costs $85. I plan on fabricating my own bracket to save a lot of money. Anyway, here is a link to some info about it and a picture.

http://www.americantouringspecialties.com/downloads/files/2.pdf

I set my engine down on the mounts lastnight after work. I'm ready to bolt the tranny up to it. I have the floorpans out right now. Would it be ok to cut the hump loose with no floorpans in it, or should I wait and tack the floorpans in it before I cut the center hump loose from the firewall? How do I post pics, I'm excited about my progress and would like to share some pictures as I progress through my project!

Get a photobucket account and host them through there. Upload your pics onto photobucket, copy the IMG link, and paste into your post. Tadaaa, then we can check this thing out!!! :cool::thumbsup:

I finally got a photobucket account so I could share some pics of my slowly progressing project. Let me know what you think! I have a lot of work ahead of me!

http://s375.photobucket.com/albums/oo196/frochevy/?albumview=slideshow

nice work man ,, i am waitin to do a ls1 swap in my 64 sedan good luck i am gonna keep watchin this thread!

Thanks! It sure seems like I'm going really slow, or backwards most of the time!!