I have gone through about 3 of the "B28" vac. cans boxed under the Car Quest label. (old stock? Ive gotten less than 100 miles each?)
My son works at a local Caddy dealer so I thought I would try one boxed by AC Delco. (they are probably all made by the same company)
I found these part numbers by doing a search here, but I have no proof the numbers are for a "B28" vac. can?
Can anyone cross reference these for me?
AC Delco #D1312C
GM #88924985
I need this for a points style distributor.
Thanks T.C.

TC,i have a fairly extensive list of gm points style dist vac adv cans so tell me what the idle vacuum is of your motor in gear with auto trans and approx how much total vac adv you need and i can suggest a napa vac adv can that comes closest to your needsthat you can try.

I have seen at times where todays fuel additives like ethenol /boosters etc can eat up the rubber diaphram in the vac adv can. ESP if your carb is running rich and or if your cam causes enough reversion back into the intake system that fuel can actually back up into the vac adv can of all places and ruin it.

Scott

Thanks Scott: These are some numbers I took a few months ago, I wouldn't think they have changed.
Idol = 4-5” 500-700 RPM
1000 RPM=13.5”
1500 RPM =15”
2500 RPM = 15”
WOT= 4”
CRUZE =15”
23” max when ya let off gas at most any speed
I do not have any vacum leaks, I have checked and rechecked
I have been using a B28 w/8 degrees at the distributor and 16 degrees at the crank. 3-5 8 @ 5.75-8
The B28 works really well in my car, it cleans up the idle and the motor runs cooler with better midrange response.
I have gone through at least two of these in under 200 miles.
I do not have any fuel leakage spots under the vac. advance can on the intake.
Although there is a gas smell and small stain on the vac. cans when I take them off the dist., but it's not what I would consider alot?
How much gas does it take to ruin a vac. can?
I figured I was getting old stock, I have also been told that Car Quest has discontinued the B28 ?
If I am having a reversion problem, what can I do about it ?
Make something like a catch can for the fuel in the vac. line?
I have the stock MSD can on the dist. now, I think it's a B26 5-7 8@11-13 and it's not working to well, motor wants to run on when I stop at a lite (idle wants to stay high) just doesnt run as well as with the B28.
I searched this web site for another vac.can to replace the B28 and found the part number I listed above.
My son works for a GM dealership and has ordered one of these parts for me, but I am not shure it's a B28 because I cant find a cross refrence chart for GM to another companys numbers.
T.C.

Scott if you have that list in a format that would allow you to easily post it,would you? I've had a list but lost it in a computer failure. Thanks
Mike

why not just limit the advance for the amount you need? :)

"why not just limit the advance for the amount you need?"
The vac. can I have on there now has the correct amount 8 degrees
@ dist., it just comes in to late, it needs to be all in at 3 to 5" of vac.,that way the timing's not bouncing all over the place at idle.
It also adds another 16 degrees of advance at idle and really cleans up the exhaust, and the motor runs cooler and allround better.
The B28 is the only vac. can I know of that has the numbers I need, other than an adjustable, I think I may have to limit the advance on an adjustable and I'm not sure if I can make an adjustable work like a B28?
T.C.

TC/found the following on the GM vac adv can your asking about which is pasted below .

I also sent you (& mike m) email with vac adv can info,you can choose the vac adv can you need from it.

Scott

================================================== =====
The following is interchageable with the ECHLIN VC-1810

AC Delco D1312C (GM Part # 88924985)
order online at www.gmpartsdirect.com

Borg-Warner V329
Niehoff DR305
Wells DV1810
Standard Motor Prod. VC177

Thanks Scott: Dont know what we would do without you and people like you on this site. Your a good guy for taking the time to help out like you do. :thumbsup:
T.C.

How would you go about replacing the canister? Does the distributor need to be fully disassembled? Or can you change the canister while the dist is still in the block?

Thanks.

Pete,its a little bit of a pia to change the vac adv with the dist in the otor but i have done it mult times over the yrs.

You have to do some tweaking/prying etc on the breaker plate to twist/pry one of the small screws that hold the vac adv onto the dist housing but it can be done,takes me approx 15mins to do from start to finish but your 1st time will likely take longer with dist i car.

If you are familure/at ease with removing the dist & re-installing it may be just as easy for you to go that route.

Scott

Thanks Scott.

If I decide to remove the dist, should I take it apart to install the canister? Do I have to remove the shaft?

Thanks again.

Pet,no diassembly of dist is needed,you will see the 2 screws that need to be removed to release the vac adv from the body of the dist .

As i said before you will need to do a little prying/lifting up of the breaker plate with a screwdrive to get the vac adv can/screw out and then back in again,but its not that hard to do.

Scott

Pet,no diassembly of dist is needed,you will see the 2 screws that need to be removed to release the vac adv from the body of the dist .

As i said before you will need to do a little prying/lifting up of the breaker plate with a screwdrive to get the vac adv can/screw out and then back in again,but its not that hard to do.

Scott

Got it swapped out. Thanks Scott! :thumbsup:

Pete,NP,glad you got it squared away.

Scott

OK, I cut that sucker open to see what happened
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/P10100023.JPG
I dont see a lot of gas resadue, the green tape is the bottom so the rubber is split on the side.
If it was gas wouldn't it be rotten and split on the bottom?
Any ideas or comments welcome.
T.C.

Is the rubber still pliable? Does it look like it could have been pinched during assembly and then failed later?
Mike

The rubber is in good shape, not hard or gummy, very pliable and where it's ripped isn't anywhere close to where it's pinched during assy.
If ya look close you can see traces of gas residue, but it doesn't look or smell like it was soaked, more like vapors?
I cant figure it out, could to much vacuum pull a rip in it?
T.C.