Team,
I know the TV adjustment is an important feature to these 700R4's. I have a rebuilt 700R (rebuild for a 91 truck, not street abuse). I really don't like the way it shifts sometimes. I want it to hold gears a touch longer and maybe downshift better. I have an aftermarket bracket for my holley that holds the TV in the proper location. I know how to do the adjustment procedure properly. But what happens if you push the TV back towards the firewall a few clicks? This would make it "think" you were on the gas a little more and maybe hold the gears longer? I know you do not want to go the wrong way because it will give you lazy shift and burn something up. But I'm curious what happens if I take it the other way. I know a true rebuild with better components is needed to really do what I want, but I know a stock 700 should work better than what I'm getting.
(in a SBC 350, vortec heads, XE262 cam, 3.42 rear). It has a "stock" stall that I know is killing me.

If ALL the brackets are in the correct position. Slide the square T.V. cable to the rear towards the fire wall. Depress the pedal very slow it will rachet into the correct position, Shifting at ( Or very close to )\ 13--- 36---55. I know this becuase my first 700, I drove it without the T.V. Cable attached......... It lasted almost 20 min.--- $900.00 F!@#- up.
Bob
If you need Specs. on measurements, I can help.

13--- 36---55
I think my 3-4 shift is going on around 45ish. Maybe a touch sooner. Is shift point strickly being driven by TV adjustment? Or does servos and such effect shift point?

P.S.
My 700R4 is in my driver ( 70 SS 454? Sta. Wgn. 4341 LBS.) My 700 has been behind 3 B.B. Chevys. All my 700 parts and converter are stock. It is not a racer.
In 2002 the 700 was behind a 396 for 3 years, Then behind a 454 for 2 years, Now the same 700R4 is behind a 468. I repeat ! Its a driver,I do not race it. Milage on the interstate 19.50 MPG at 70-75 MPH. At 75 MPH. its turning 1950 RPMs. I have a 3:08-12 bolt, It will spin tires all day.
I plan NO changes. Also at lot of G.M.s came with 2:73s and 3:08s Depending on vehicle Wt.
Bob

I am a driver as well. I actually have never seen a drag strip with my eyes in my entire life. My 700 is also dead stock.
I am running a 3.42 (used to have a 2.56 in this car)

Mine shifts very solid. The measurement from the carb ( center line of throttle plate ) to ( centerline ) Nailhead ( Cable attachment point ) should be... 1 and 3/16" of an inch at 58 Degrees to the rear. Looking at the carb, The attachment point with throttle plates closed.
The ( nailhead ) will be on the centerline of throttle plates pointing down at 58 degrees ( to the rear ) and 1--3/16" C-to -C.
The bracket with the square hole that HOLDS the T.V. cable has a measurement that must be held. Do you have this measurement ????
For all my measurements , I looked at a throttle body P/U truck and just duplicated what I saw.
Trivia the Bracket with square hole !!! I took the one from my 70--307 and bolted it to the intake (same size SQ. Hole ) Its been on the intake since 2002...............
Bob

I haven't taken exact measurements. You can see myself up here kind of.
http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa265/dauber65/?action=view&current=100_1100.jpg

The holley had a place that looked logical to hook the TV to the linkage. The actual bracket is a part from Holley specifically for spreadbores running a 700R4. It bolted up great and holds the TV and accelerator components properly.

At minimum you should have one of these, some say they don't work but.

http://store.summitracing.com/largeimage.asp?part=TCI-376715&Prod=TCI+TV+Cable+Bracket+Corrector+Kits&img=tci-376715_w.jpg

Here's a geometry lesson too.

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html

The measurement from the carb ( center line of throttle plate ) to ( centerline ) Nailhead ( Cable attachment point ) should be... 1 and 3/16" of an inch at 58 Degrees to the rear.
Bob

This measurement should be no more than 1 1/8".

Not 1 3/16".

Factory specs are listed in the link 77 Cruiser provided.
The center to center can be slightly shorter than 1.125" but shouldn't be longer.

Too long of a measurement here creates a condition that the TV cable has too long of a throw from idle to WOT and with "proper" cable adjustment, you will have good WOT pressures, but the pressure progressively get lower (than they should be) at lower throttle angles.

What this causes is a lack of immediate TV pressure rise (line bias and TV boost) on initial throttle application, this cooks these units friction elements.

You can compensate for a slightly too long throw with a longer TV plunger spring, or a shim between the plunger and spring. But it is much easier to compensate for a too short throw by adjusting some tension off the cable.