I asked the people at Hooker if I bought a set of there Super Comp headders if I would have to ding them to get them to fit my car?
(69 chevelle big block)
I also asked if there was any special motor mounts needed to keep this from being a problem?
This is there responce:
As long as you have factory bigblock motor stands, you should not have to
modify the headers. These are available from Year One at 1-800-YEARONE.
Thanks,
Chris
Now why does everyone still have to ding there headders? Am I missing something?
T.C.

tc,didnt ding my headers on my 67 big block,the steering shaft just slightly rubs the header ,just takes a little(very)paint off,and I cant feel it in the wheel at all----67rat member #199

Thanks for the reply,
I think you are the first one on this site that hasnt had to beat the heck out of the drivers side, are yours 2" tubes?
I guess I need to make shure I have BB motor stands, got any Ideas how to tell? Also am I correct that these are the between the motor mount and the frame rail?
OPG cat. list them as the same part # for a 69 SB/BB?
Thanks!! T.C.

TC,

67 to 69 chevelles is not a valid comparison. Your statement on the frame mounts being the same BB vs. SB on a 69 is correct. As for the headers you want a comparison form a 68-72 chevelle. My car has Hooker comps on it. The first coated set lasted 3 years and fit fine(no dents needed).
The second set put on this march needed a clearance dent on the driver side #1 tube to clear the top aft mounting bolt fot the engine stand. They also were tight at where the flange meets the head. These were the same part number as the previous ones I bought. Also the dent I had to add is hidden on the bottom side so you can't see it. Buy the headers from someone you can return them to easily in case they don't fit.Good Luck.

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Jeff Angerstein
ACES#841 TCG#158
68 SS396(FULL ROLLER 454)
68 L78 Project
69 SSRS 396(roller427) 4spd
87 MC SS
jeffa@chevelles.com
Home Page (http://www.tcg158.homestead.com)
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The far from "correct" Camaro SSRS (http://tcg158.homestead.com/files/frntdrvr1.jpg)

[This message has been edited by ACE841 (edited 06-07-2000).]

My Hooker "Competition" headers (2" Tubes) on the 69 Chevelle Big Block are about 5 years old and no dings were reqired. They also just barely rubbed the steering shaft so I put one washer between the motor mounts and the block to space up the block a hair and all clears fine.
The Hooker Super Comps are a different story, They are a 2 piece header that wraps around the frame rail, you must cut out the lower wheelwell to install them.

Not quite. Hooker Super Comps are not always 2 piece. I have Super Comps (2217) 2" primary, they are 1 piece and don't wrap around the frame rail. They only use the over the frame design for larger tube sizes...2 1/8, etc. Hooker Competition headers come in much more general categories than Super Comps. One header design for Comp headers may be intended for several different cars, so there's a bigger chance for interference. Stick with Super Comps since they're designed for a specific car within a certain year range...68-72 & 64-67 Chevelle.

One final thing TC, No denting or hammering was necessary to install my headers. They're in a 69 big-block.

Raised exhaust port heads on a BB cause a whole new set of clearance problems using Hooker Comps. Had to ding mine in 3 places, two of which can hardly be seen at the lower control arm mounts and one on #5 tube at the steering shaft.

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It’s a BIGger BLOCK!

Thanks for the replys!
I guess I should buy them uncoated and check the fit, and then send them off to be coated.
Sounds like the Super Comps are the way to go.
I also noticed in one of the mail order cats. that the 2 1/8" tubes were the part # for over the frame rail, they had another listing for 2"x35"x3" in the S.C line.
I will check if the number is 2217.
Thanks again!!
T.C.

Hey Chris, chalk up another Hooker SuperComp (1 7/8") user who did not have to ding any primary tubes BUT did have to slightly notch the 502 GenVI block for one of the tubes to clear just right. Strangest thing, but just a smidget of material had to be ground off of the leading edge of the blocks' oil pan mounting base. Fortunately found the error while it was on the engine stand - saved me from alot of grief on engine drop day. BTW, have plenty of room between the steering arm and header tube. Real PIA to fit though. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif If you don't go overboard on primary hedder tube size, you should be okay with any clearance issues.

I'll add too that it REALLY helps if your cars' body is sitting level and straight with healthy body bushings at all points. Bad bushings are what forced me to ding (steering arm clearance) Hooker 1.75" small block headers on the 383 I used to use. Put the new poly bushings in and gained about +.25" clearance between tube and steering arm. Hope this helps.

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502 Rat Infested 1970 Malibu - Gold Member #39
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/wescolby2.jpeg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/wescolby7.jpg)
Keep America Beautiful - Drive A Brute Force Chevelle!

Chris,

Several friends bought uncoated headers, fit them up and sent them to Jet Hot for coating. They were dissapointed that it took so long to get them back, the shipping costs and the cost of the coating. They said they would buy the coated version if they had to do it again.

Don't worry about knocking the coating off if you have to ding the tubes. It is very durable. I laid a round brass bar against the tubes and hit it with a hammer.

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It’s a BIGger BLOCK!

ACE841,yes ,your right,a 67 compaired to a 69 is different,but I have supercomps,they fit,not dented,and Im sick of all the hooker bashing I hear!mine are fine.OH YEA!If you dent a tube,I dont care if you see it or not,that tube has more restriction than the other seven,though it is not much,I will not dent to fit----good day-----67rat member #199

I bought my headers coated. Hooker says they are now coated inside and out.

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Jeff Angerstein
ACES#841 TCG#158
68 SS396(FULL ROLLER 454)
68 L78 Project
69 SSRS 396(roller427) 4spd
87 MC SS
jeffa@chevelles.com
Home Page (http://www.tcg158.homestead.com)
My Favorite (http://tcg158.homestead.com/files/drvr.jpg)
The far from "correct" Camaro SSRS (http://tcg158.homestead.com/files/frntdrvr1.jpg)

The body mounts sound like a good thing to do,I can see that after 30 years of getting squished those babys may be a little flat! Does that require taking the body off the frame or can the new mounts be installed with the body in place?
I would think Hooker would have figured out the routing of these headders after 30 years of making them?
They must be made on some sort of jig or none of them would fit, and for the price of super comps I would think they have some sort of quallity controll?
Im thinking it's the cars that are out of wack, alot can happed in 30 years.
T.C.

I installed hooker comp headers in my 72Malibu along with a 454 on small block engine mounts,,,I had to ding the drivers side down by the brake distribution block mounted on the frame,and had to ding the passenger side by the upper control arm...the only thing I dont like about the headers is the collectors hang down too low, about 2-3 inches below the crossmember that goes under the engine,I have since installed big block no a/c springs, but still drag the headers on the ground occasionally http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif...they do have 2 inch tubes also http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

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Bob West
Monett,Mo.
1972 Malibu,461 cid.

[This message has been edited by Rapid Robert (edited 06-08-2000).]

Chris, I should tell you that my car was leaning 1.5" toward the passengers' side so apparently the right side bushings were toast compared to the left ones. That's what was causing my steering arm to hit the header tube. If your car is fairly level, you may not need to replace the bushings for those headers to fit. Just an FYI. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif

Having said that, replacing body bushings isn't too difficult to do. First, loosen all of the bushings on both sides of the car. Then start with one side and take about a 1.5' section of 2X4 and with a floor jack, raise one side of the body at a time and replace the bushings as you go along. Be careful where you place the 2X4 as you start to raise the body. I wound up putting a nice dent in the rear passenger side floorpan that had to be pushed back out with a rubber mallet. Not a big deal - just go slow and watch that floor pan. Make sure that all of the bushings on both sides of the car are fairly loose BEFORE you jack up the body off of the frame. Not hard at all but will take the better part of an afternoon to complete.

BTW, the biggest headache on my '70 was having to drop both front inner fenderwells to get access to two of the body bushings. Not sure about a '69, but on my '70, it's the bushing located just behind each front tire. The General was NOT thinking when they covered up the access hole with that fender well. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/mad.gif Anyway, hope this rambling helps you.

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502 Rat Infested 1970 Malibu - Gold Member #39
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/wescolby2.jpeg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/wescolby7.jpg)
Keep America Beautiful - Drive A Brute Force Chevelle!

This is another problen I have heard of the Hooker headders,it's that they hang down to low, is this another"car" problem or is it a super comp or comp problem?
Hate to buy them and leave them on the RR tracks if I forget to slow down.
T.C.

As much as they cost these days you'll only forget once!

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A bought lesson is worth two or three free ones.

Yep, they DO hang down lower than most standard issue headers. I had to raise the front end of my ride about 2" for a little extra clearance insurance, but I had trimmed my springs previously to get a lowered stance. Stock riding suspension should be fine for clearance though.