I went too the track for the first time ever. Got too meet fellow TC'er Paddy(really nice guy and car too) and I got too see Micky Hales new race car run :cool: I was planning on just going once too see what the car will run in the 1/4. But now I have too start spending money on parts too keep getting faster. It seems like it could be an endless money pit(Already been through this with a dirt racing car) I had a blast doing it even though I sucked most of the time. Im embarassed at my reaction times, some of them were 1+, the second day I was getting .7xx and the 3rd I got some 6xx's with a low of .643 graemlins/sad.gif I guess with some practice that will finally come around. Maybe I have a phobia of red lights.
Heres my combo
69 chevelle 3410lbs without me
383 400hp/425tq at the crank
TH400 B&M holeshot 3000
3.36 rear with powertrax
235/70/15 walmart special tires 30psi
SSM lift bars KYB shocks

My best run
RT. 757
60ft 1.887
330ft 5.400
1/8et 8.361
1/8mph 82.72
1/4et 13.114
1/4mph 102.71

first run was a 13.5, worst was 14.2(tried too floor it on the takeoff) My speeds were consistent the first 5 runs at 99.3-100.5 then on the second day I uncapped my headers and speeds were 102 for the final 9 runs. I could not run consistent 60fts and that seemed too be what makes or breaks the run. My final 4 runs were 13.355-13.118. Im planning on getting some slicks so I dont have too feather the throttle on the start and maybe get some consistent times. What other simple mods or tuning should I try? I need too do something with my upper control arms, they are stock with the original bushings. Should I buy after market arms or just replace the bushings with poly or steel? Might try some air bags too. My goal was too get in the 12s with this car so after the weekend I was glad too see that 12.xx should be easy too hit. What would i need too hit a 12.5-12.7? Thanks in advance.

Congrats on you first outing. You did very well. It takes time and tuning to get the car to go faster. Work with what you have before throwing money at the car.

Start with tires, slicks will make a big difference. However, with 3.36 gears launches may still be a problem. Once the tires start spinning it is nearly impossible to stop them. But slicks won't spin as easily. And yes, you're right, good 60's are crucial. However, a buddy use to win a lot of races with tall gears. He left like a turtle but finished like a jackrabbit. His opponent would catch him at the 1000' mark and let off, then he would go flying by. He was chasing wins not ET.

No need for aftermarket upper control arms. Lots of people, including me, run in the 11's with the stock units. Just replace the bushings. It's not necessary to box them either. They work under tension so will not collapse.

Fantastic 60ft for those tires. I'm impressed

Thanks Pat, thats what I was thinking on the control arms would urethane or steel bushings be better? Im sure the urethane would be cheaper.

Nice work for the first time out.

As for r/t, mine generally are like "asleep at the wheel," 1 second type of reaction times.
Now, they don't have anything to do with your ET, but it is more fun and looks more impressive if you can cut a quick light. Just remember, if you leave when the green light is on, you waited too long. Leave _as soon_ as the last amber turns on, not "as it is on," but the partial second you see it "turning on." I can usually cut a .6xx light after a few tries at the track when I keep telling myself how to do it.
It makes it more fun, especially if others at the track are cordial and let you prestage, then they stage, then you stage, or vice versa.
As far as the money pit thing goes, its so true.
My chevelle was the first car I built up, and I was stupid and spent alot of money I didn't need to. Being patient and waiting for a good deal is important, and as I also learned, the easiest way to go fast is not to simply throw money at the car. For what I have in my car, it should run like I have a JATO rocket tied to the roof.
Search on other combos, talk to people, learn things, etc, hang out on TC, search for questions, ask questions. I'd have given up on my car by now without this group of people, and we all get along in the car sections of the list.
So #1 have fun & be safe, and #2, if you get frustrated, just put the tools down and sleep on it.
Also, ditto on the 60'!! I think I need to rent a driver for my car when I hit the track on my street radials.. try a best of 2.225 in 1998 to a worst of like 2.7 this year, and they are always all over the place. With a set of very small ET streets, I can get consistent 1.9x with a small burnout, and 1.8x with a larger one. I applaud a 1.8x 60' with street radials and feathering it! you must have been practicing!

hth--

matt

I'm pleased to have met you too and thanks for the kind words.
Heck of a sticky track wasn't it? Thats the first time my tire completely left the ground! I set a few bests as well, 1.71, 8.09 1/8, 12.71@ 105.9.
The front shock nut trick works too,it seems to be worth .07 to .09 sec. If I'd known you wanted to tune your car instead of just make a lot of passes I'd have given you a hand and left the kid on his own. May as well have, he won't listen to me anyway. Kinda like me at 18 ;)
Gary

You don't want steel, they will beat up the control arms and mounts. I use polys and think they are fine but other don't like them.

I suggest trying some tuning changes, like jetting and timing. I like to jet up before jetting down, it's just safer that way. Always look at the mph not the et when doing this. The ET will follow.

The two things I would consider changing first are the gears and the tires. You'll need them no matter what else you do.

Your 8.2" rear end is fine at your power level. I run one and my car is in the 11's. However, if you plan on chasing ET into the 11's and beyond, you'd be better off with a 12 bolt up front. The price difference between changing gears in the 8.2 and having a 12 bolt built is somewhat over $1000.

Gary, I didnt really want too do any tuning this weekend. I had fun making alot of runs and trying too beat my best time. I didnt go too compete because I knew being my first time I would not be consistent. Pat, Im definitely going too find some tires for next time, the gears are kind of up in the air. This is not my daily driver but I drive it several times a week just for fun so I like my 3.36 for that part of it, and I dont want an over drive. If I buy new slicks which I probably will, I will get 26" too give it some more gear. If I do change gears I would want 3.73 or 3.5x so I dont know how much of a difference that would make against my 3.36. Im about 2 hours from the track so I wont be going a whole lot maybe a few times a year, I just want too be able too compete when I go. Im not planning on hitting any 11s, I will be shocked if I hit 12.5 thanks

MO_Chevelle,

JMHO, and I do not have alot of racing experience, but I have had a hard time getting a 26" DOT slick to get below a 1.800 60', this is a MT 26*10.5 ET Street (8" tread).
Your 235/70 R15 tires are just a shade (27.94") according to my quick n' dirty math below 28".
You are already getting a 1.8 on street tires.
If you are planning performance upgrades in the future, I would suggest going for a 27 or 28" slick, or DOT slick. I haven't met too many people in person at the track while talking waiting in line to race who have had luck at getting below a mid 1.7 60' on a 26" DOT slick.
This is just from my limited experience, but I really think you have enough grunt to go with a 28". It wouldn't kill gear as any different than you are now with your street tires, and the sidewall always helps.
I don't know where the weight cutoff for a stiffer sidewall slick would be, but I go in a 4020lbs and I honestly think if I were to move from a DOT slick (which from what I understand already have a bit stiffer sidewall) to a real slick, I would look for one with a stiffer sidewall.
I'd listen to the pros on the site first, but IMHO I wouldn't do a 26". If you had 2.73's maybe, but 3.36 and a stout SB should be able to tackle a 28" tall tire.
I question whether you would be able to punch it off the line with a 26" slick, DOT or real. I know I certainly can't.

Sorry for the ramble, but when I got my car kinda straightened out shift point wise, and I'm excited, so I'm blithering..
Just know you are not listening to anyone with alot of experience here. I had a friend with a 93 mustang I talked out of 26" DOTs because he was afraid he didn't have enough power, and he says he was very happy with going with the 28" tires in the end.

matt

Originally posted by MadMarv:
Sorry for the ramble IMO the more rambling the better, theres always some useful information hidden in there somewhere :D You may not have much racing experience, but its a lot more than I have. You are probably right about not being able too punch it with a 26". I also didnt feel under powered with the 235. Buy the way it felt, I dont think a 28" slick would bog it too much taking off.

I just noticed you talking about a possible gear swap too, I would just keep in mind what your intended goal for the car is before going to a 3.73 or more radical gear.
Because you have 28" street and possibly 28" race tires, 3.73s wouldn't be too bad I would think, but I'd tweak other stuff before running out for some new gear.
If you do highway driving, something like a 3.55 or so might be more up your alley..
If you have overdrive go for it, but otherwise, I think traction tips will get you the ET you want, and adding an x-pipe to your exhaust will probably pick you up some power if its not in there.
I was flat out shocked at how much an x-pipe got me vs my former true dual system, even with the exact same mufflers on the car. Seeing as you picked up so much power by letting the headers loose, you may want to look at your exhaust to free up some of the power you have hiding in there, and make it so that power is there on the street and not just the track.
I would think a mandrel bent 2.5" system with an x pipe and some quality high flowing mufflers of your choice might be of some help here, if you aren't already using a setup like that. If your converter is decent (seems like it certainly is with those 60's on radials), I think you will be able to maximize ET with the slicks, and free up some power through the exhaust for on the road driving.
I'd bet pretty good money you would see more out of a proper exhaust than going for gear. When I went from 3.31's to 3.90's, I noticed a zero improvement in anything, but that was when I had a motor that was trapping at a high enough RPM with the 3.31's where it didn't make a difference I don't think.

I'd like to say I could do my car over again with what I learned, so that is why I try to encourage baby steps with people just starting out, I've screwed up so many times that I have to have learned something along the way..

have fun..
Matt