Trying to figure out how these shocks are suppose to be mounted. Does the crossbar sit inside the control arm? or is it suppose to be bolted on from the bottom? The standard hardware will not work. Looking at getting some 5/16" bolts and some lock washers to hold them in place.

Anyone else have this issue?

On another note...I have the SPC upper arms and my frame is on jackstands. I have to install the springs with the shocks, but the SPC upper arms hit the frame on the anodized part. Is there any other way to do this without scratching up the frame and the arms??? Mark you out there???

if i getting what your saying without a picture i believe you have to cut the section down on the frame. i know i had a problem to but a call to mark lead me to cutting on the frame so the arms would fit correctly. if i was at home i could send a picture and let you see where you need to cut. i will try to send a picture tonight for you.

The shock crossbar has to sit on TOP of the LCA. In other words, the shock has to be installed with the spring. I used 5/16" hardware as well.

Your frame gusset needs to be trimmed to match the rear:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154354&highlight=gusset

The shock crossbar has to sit on TOP of the LCA.

That's not correct.
Per Alston AND Marc @ SC&C, the lower shocks crossbar gets installed BELOW the LCA. The crossbar unscrews, allowing the shock eye to extend thru the LCA.

That's not correct.
Per Alston AND Marc @ SC&C, the lower shocks crossbar gets installed BELOW the LCA. The crossbar unscrews, allowing the shock eye to extend thru the LCA.

Your're right:

http://www.varishock.com/Instructions/899-031-203.pdf

yeah that is the word i was looking for frame gusset hahaha i hate when i know the word but can't get it out!!!! glad someone did. trim alot of the gusset out to like little over 3/4 i found out on my chevelle.

if i getting what your saying without a picture i believe you have to cut the section down on the frame. i know i had a problem to but a call to mark lead me to cutting on the frame so the arms would fit correctly. if i was at home i could send a picture and let you see where you need to cut. i will try to send a picture tonight for you.

frame has been modified....its the section that is hitting the frame....

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/507/dsc0090kz8.jpg

That's not correct.
Per Alston AND Marc @ SC&C, the lower shocks crossbar gets installed BELOW the LCA. The crossbar unscrews, allowing the shock eye to extend thru the LCA.

Thats what I thought. The cross bar does not sit in the control arm pocket very well. I'll have to take them apart and see if I can resolve it.

Thanks guys

Unfortunately the turnbuckle hitting the frame is part of life with no upper bumpstop. Not much you can do about it other than run limiting straps. The likely hood of you hitting full droop during driving with a stiff suspension is low. Now if you pulling wheelies off the line you might get worried.

So how do I get the springs in without a motor or body on it? 1000 pound ape?

spring compressor!!! i borrowed a buddy that had a old school one course he is old to hahaha. you can also rent them but make sure you get right one i know they make 2 styles for sure maybe even more.

Unfortunately the turnbuckle hitting the frame is part of life with no upper bumpstop. Not much you can do about it other than run limiting straps. The likely hood of you hitting full droop during driving with a stiff suspension is low. Now if you pulling wheelies off the line you might get worried.

So anytime the car comes off the ground in the front this is going to hit the frame..... major bummer.

well you can stop it by making own bump stops or chain/strap. i would rather be whipping ****ties then seeing how high i can make my car go :)

For starters I`ll say what I always say. If you have a tuning or install question don`t wait for somebody who may have never even used these components to reply to a thread on the web, just call us. You`re a client not just a customer, take advantage of it. :) Varishocks can be installed with the crossbar on the top or the bottom of the arms. Use whichever works best for your application. The position will dictate wether loads are put mostly on the cross shaft or just the bolts. Below the arms will make it stronger in rebound (drag racing) on top makes it stronger in bump (road racing etc.). Also aftermarket lower arms almost always have a lower than stock shock mounting height so we recomend mounting the crossbar on top to take that into account and get max usable travel out of the shocks.

As for the arms/frame our package will give you more droop travel than stock arms and bumpstops anyway. In street or any type of racing use except drag racing they will never touch the frame unless the car is sitting still on the lift and then the contact pressure is very light. Our Stage 2 test car has about 80,000 miles on them and there are no marks on the arms from the frame. It`s seen much harder use and many more trips up and down on the lift than most peoples cars would see in 5 lifetimes. For drag racing we recomend travel limiting straps (I like Mastercraft straps) or cables (we carry Chassisworks adj. ones) as noted in the instructions. Not a bummer at all since you actually get more travel and some cheap travel straps are a small price to pay for the light weight and huge adjustability advantages. :yes: Mark SC&C

For starters I`ll say what I always say. If you have a tuning or install question don`t wait for somebody who may have never even used these components to reply to a thread on the web, just call us. You`re a client not just a customer, take advantage of it. :) Varishocks can be installed with the crossbar on the top or the bottom of the arms. Use whichever works best for your application. The position will dictate wether loads are put mostly on the cross shaft or just the bolts. Below the arms will make it stronger in rebound (drag racing) on top makes it stronger in bump (road racing etc.). Also aftermarket lower arms almost always have a lower than stock shock mounting height so we recomend mounting the crossbar on top to take that into account and get max usable travel out of the shocks.

As for the arms/frame our package will give you more droop travel than stock arms and bumpstops anyway. In street or any type of racing use except drag racing they will never touch the frame unless the car is sitting still on the lift and then the contact pressure is very light. Our Stage 2 test car has about 80,000 miles on them and there are no marks on the arms from the frame. It`s seen much harder use and many more trips up and down on the lift than most peoples cars would see in 5 lifetimes. For drag racing we recomend travel limiting straps (I like Mastercraft straps) or cables (we carry Chassisworks adj. ones) as noted in the instructions. Not a bummer at all since you actually get more travel and some cheap travel straps are a small price to pay for the light weight and huge adjustability advantages. :yes: Mark SC&C

Cool thanks Mark....I'd call but I'm stuck in a bunch of work related cr@p right now... finally getting this thing put together after talking to you last summer.