howdy y'all I have a 1969 chevelle and I just picked up a 350 enginge for it. The engine and the car need a full restoration. WHERE DO I START!!! Space is not an issue. I just built a 30 by 36 by 18 feet garage. I have a hoist coming in order. My chevelle is just a 1969 300 deluxe so I thinking I might do a clone yenko. I have been saving a lot recently. We are going to do most the work by ourselfs. Well most the body work anyway and the engine work. There is very little rust on the car and the frame has already been off before and someone else did the work under neath before I bought it. I still have to go down there and see what they did. But THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR ALL THE TIPS!!! Keep 'em coming !! lol

At the bank!! LOL Welcome Cole. Tough to say where to start. I would start by checking out the worst/rustiest/damaged areas and start getting a list of what you are going to need.

With the items that affect SAFETY:

Brakes--friction, iron, and hydraulic/pneumatic sub-parts from the wheels all the way back to the pedal--in one word: Everything.
Steering--Joints, arms, rods, sector, PS pump, from tires to steering wheel.
Suspension--Front and rear including bushings, joints, springs 'n' shocks, mounting brackets, etc.

Is there a down side? Yes. You have to think carefully about how you want the car to look and ride when you're finished 'cause that's going to affect what parts you use--short/tall springs, soft/firm shocks and bushings, do you want "upgrades" in your "restoration" such as bigger/better brakes, lowering kits, etc. Every hour you spend RESEARCHING and PLANNING this project in the very early phases is going to save you a DAY later on by reducing screwups, incorrect parts, and rework.

At the point that the safety aspects are handled you might consider fresh rubber/polyurethane body bushings; no point in beating yourself up trying to get doors and fenders to align when the bushings are rotted out and you'll have to do it all over again when the new bushings eventually do go in. If your car is anything like mine, you'll have to cut open the body to repair/replace the caged nuts; that should be done before you get too wild about general body repair/painting.

Short story: Start at the bottom of the car and work "up", to assure a solid foundation for the engine, trans, body, interior, etc.

Dont forget the manuals - factory assembly manual, body by fisher manual....and every other manual with an exploded view that you can find. Read here until your eyes start to roll back in your head and you start to mumble incoherently and drool.

Plan, plan and plan some more. Its like the measure twice, cut once rule - plan 3 times, work once.

It gets overwhelming. I have had to break it out into small sections. Complete one section, whether it be body, suspension, whatever...and then once DONE move on. Exceeding your multi tasking abilities will kill you and the car.

BTW - its taken me a bunch of setbacks, annoyances and plan has changed 3 times causing delays so im just now starting to get over the curve.

Maybe take up meditation and make sure your patience tank is chock full. :D

howdy y'all I have a 1969 chevelle and I just picked up a 350 enginge for it. The engine and the car need a full restoration. WHERE DO I START!!!


in order to really get an idea of what you want whats the definition of restoration to you?

Are you looking to build a numbers matching BJ car or are you looking to put together a nice street/strip driver????


Maybe a pic of what you want would be a good idea.

Do you want to drive the car anytime soon???

the question of where to start is just that ........... where you going to work on this ??

do you have room for a complete tear down ?? do you have time ?? do you OWN the garage the car may be apart in for years ??

projects depend on surroundings ... if your doing it in the driveway it will be a much different project then if you have a two-four car garage ;)

With the items that affect SAFETY:

Brakes--friction, iron, and hydraulic/pneumatic sub-parts from the wheels all the way back to the pedal--in one word: Everything.
Steering--Joints, arms, rods, sector, PS pump, from tires to steering wheel.
Suspension--Front and rear including bushings, joints, springs 'n' shocks, mounting brackets, etc.

Is there a down side? Yes. You have to think carefully about how you want the car to look and ride when you're finished 'cause that's going to affect what parts you use--short/tall springs, soft/firm shocks and bushings, do you want "upgrades" in your "restoration" such as bigger/better brakes, lowering kits, etc. Every hour you spend RESEARCHING and PLANNING this project in the very early phases is going to save you a DAY later on by reducing screwups, incorrect parts, and rework.

At the point that the safety aspects are handled you might consider fresh rubber/polyurethane body bushings; no point in beating yourself up trying to get doors and fenders to align when the bushings are rotted out and you'll have to do it all over again when the new bushings eventually do go in. If your car is anything like mine, you'll have to cut open the body to repair/replace the caged nuts; that should be done before you get too wild about general body repair/painting.

Short story: Start at the bottom of the car and work "up", to assure a solid foundation for the engine, trans, body, interior, etc.

X2
you cant go unless you are able to stop first. It is better to have an "ugly" car that runs than a sweet looking car on the side of the road.