This is my first try at real body work, so please forgive me. I'm attempting to repair the rear window chanel that is a little rusted on my 70. I know that there is a company that makes a complete panel, and all I'd have to do it weld it in, And If i screw this up to the point where it's not salvageable, then I'll just do that. For now I'd like to try to repair it. I'm trying to keep all/most of my repair below the glass line, so that it can't be seen once the glass is installed with the trim. The upper rounded edge is actually in really nice shape, so I'd like to stay away from that. Anyway Here are some pics of what I'm working with.

http://norcalttora.com/~steve/photos/Chevelle/DSC09867%20(Small).JPG

http://norcalttora.com/~steve/photos/Chevelle/DSC09868%20(Small).JPG

http://norcalttora.com/~steve/photos/Chevelle/DSC09869%20(Small).JPG

As you can see, All or most of the damage is below that upper bend. I'm trying to cut out the channel about 3/16 of an inch below that bend. Then about 1/4 of an inch from the piece that can be seen through the rear window. In the first pic below, you can see my first attempt at this, I'm having problems finding something that can cut the metal relatively straight vertically. I get the top and bottom cut pretty nice and straight, but vertically, my cutoff wheel is too big, my dremel doesnt' seem to be up to the task. What can I cut this with without destroying the surrounding metal? See the pic below.

http://norcalttora.com/~steve/photos/Chevelle/DSC09867marked%20(Small).JPG

I've already got the new piece bent up awaiting to be tacked into place. Suggestions? tips? help.... BTW... That panel below this one is pretty rusty too...

Thanks for the help!
Steve

steve, don't waste your time, buy the filler panel. it's not worth your time for a part like that. when i did my resto, i bought a new one. you'll spend forever cutting and grinding and filling. the new ones aren't that expensive.

The Dremel tool will cut it. Just get the Dremel waffle pattern discs. It will surprise you. I think Andy cut an entire quarter panel with one (seriously).

Get a couple magnets to help you hold your patch piece in place while welding. You could hand file your sides to get to solid metal and then cut the patch to fit.

You could just replace the whole panel. Im sure it is available at a reasonable price.

Von is correct, I use it to trim up my quarter skin for the final butt weld. I had the new panel lined up over the rough cut old skin, screwed into place with a few inches of overlap, then cut through both pieces at the same time, cutting away the excess on both sides and adding panel clamps as I went.

The dremel type tool, there are some tool snobs who will poo poo it, but for those of us who don't have all the fancy schmancy air tools, it works way better than an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. Those big blades, the generate a lot of heat, and will warp your panel in an instant. The dremel, with a small blade, takes longer but makes a nicer cut with less heat.

I've got a dremel tool that I tried using the waffle disk on, the disk was too big to fit down into the angle of the channel without cutting up the top or bottom. I suppose I could just cut it straight and then tack it back together... Not to mention it'd be good experience trying to repair something like that. I wanted to try to save the original piece because it's so nice and straight. The quarter seams are flawless, Just the channel is toast in a few places.


Does the aftermarket panel have the studs for the trim clips? or is that something that I'll need to fab up? Also I When you install this aftermarket panel is it just spot welded to the quarters from underneath? How is the fit and finish of the aftermarket panel? I'm guessing that with this panel off it'd make cleaning out the sheetmetal under that pretty easy....

Decisions, decisions...

Does the aftermarket panel have the studs for the trim clips? or is that something that I'll need to fab up?

The new one does not have the trim clips, but you can buy these and screw them into the panel.

I've got a dremel tool that I tried using the waffle disk on, the disk was too big to fit down into the angle of the channel without cutting up the top or bottom. I suppose I could just cut it straight and then tack it back together.
You can make the waffle disc smaller in dia to fit into tight spaces by wearing it down (doesn't take but a few seconds) on a piece of scrap metal.

Doesn't it look like the outer panel should be relaced and the inner panel which is also rusty repaired? Am I missing something here? After all, eventually the hidden rust will come out...

If your rust is limited to what we see in the pictures, I would continue as you are going. You can replace the whole filler panel but there are SEVERAL spot welds holding this piece in. As far as getting inside to cut pieces off vertically, you can take channel locks or other pliers and work it up and down until you break it off. You may need to split the rusted piece down in the bottom so you are breaking off single pieces instead of an angle shaped piece. I just finished this exact repair on my '69 this past Sat. Good luck.:yes:

Doesn't it look like the outer panel should be relaced and the inner panel which is also rusty repaired? Am I missing something here? After all, eventually the hidden rust will come out...


The outer panel (trunk to rear window) seems to be in good shape, the panel beneath that (extension to the rear window/back seat panel) was not painted, so it's got a bit of flakey rust if I stick my finger up through the the holes inside the trunk. If I decide to remove and replace the trunk to rear window panel, I'll blast the panel below. If I just do my spot repairs, then I'll probably just blast What I can through the holes... I guess I don't really know if the surface rust on the panel below is going to be a problem.... I'd imagine that this is a very common problem with even the most Rust free cars...

Steve

yeah I wouldnt change the outer panel. The rust is has is minimal to a point.. The metal under is prolly shot but if the drip rail that seals the trunk is intact i'd leave it. in my car the outer peice was open all along the bottom and it complete did away with the bow and other piece here are some pics. Wish i didnt have to go this deep but i did.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j99/daminature/rustedpanel001.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j99/daminature/montetrunkproject011.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j99/daminature/oct15montepics004.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j99/daminature/oct15montepics003.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j99/daminature/oct15montepics002.jpg

By the way to cut the sheet metal you can use a grinder with the 4 1/2" disc. This will cut thru and not really warp the metal as some might think. As for cutting small strips or patch panels for the window chanel, some sheet metal sheers will do the trick. Thats what i used and i made some precise cuts

I would install all my window clip studs before welding that panel in place. I used the screw in replacement studs and welded them in from the back side.