I have a 454 c.i. engine that came from a 1984 Suburban. It has what looks to be an adapter that goes in place of the oil filter with 2 lines coming out of it up to a radiator in the front of the engine compartment. The oil filter then threads into the adapter.

I am trying to remove this "adapter", It looks like it would just thread in like the oil filter does, but I can't seem to budge it and I don't want to damage anything. Is it possible that this is a permanent part and I need to remove the hoses and plug the 2 holes? It isn't part of the block casting and looks to be made from a different metal. Even if The thing does thread in, with the hoses off it still looks like I might have to remove the oil pan because the two will hit each other.

The engine came from a 1984 suburban 2wd 3/4 ton. I know that this is it's original engine.

Thanks for any advice
Cory Thompson

no its has two bolts into the block from the bottom that hold it in place it doesn't UN-screw :eek:

once its removed your going to need a new bypass valve assembly & the two bolts that hold it in place

Is this a GM part? I'd love to find an oil cooler adapter like that for my boat...

Yes its a stock GM part ....... available at any dealership

OK thanks for the info...Do the 2 allen headed bolts going up from the inside of the adapter take it off?

Also is the oil bypass something I can get at a local parts store?

OK thanks for the info...Do the 2 allen headed bolts going up from the inside of the adapter take it off?

Also is the oil bypass something I can get at a local parts store?

yes to both questions :D

although you will more then likely have to order the bypass valve any where but the dealer ship ..... unless you have a REAL parts store locally ;)

there is a gasket & the bolts to think about also ..... it might just be worth the trip to the dealer to get it all at one time :thumbsup:

Hmm, I took mine off of a 91 - 454 Suburban and didn't buy any bypass valve.
What happens when you don't?
I never had any problems. :confused:

Dean ,what's holding the oil filter on ?

What oil filter? :D
To be honest, I don't remember how I did it now, it's been too long ago.
Maybe I just plugged the line connections. :confused:

I remember that the oil cooler fell down and was worn through and was going to be expensive so I just eliminated it.

Hmm, I took mine off of a 91 - 454 Suburban and didn't buy any bypass valve.
What happens when you don't?
I never had any problems. :confused:
another name for the "bypass valve" is "oil filter adapter".. i'd bet you got one of those and put it on- it's the same as a small block. if you just plugged the oil cooler lines, then you've still got a 3" thick chunk of aluminum up there that makes changing your oil filter that much more fun if you've got headers.
the oil cooler adapter in question is a pretty common part- i think i've got 3 of them out in the barn that will probably never get used, but i felt the need to keep them.
and you don't need a gasket for the oil filter adapter- just get the adapter and bolts from any of the small blocks you see laying upside down in the dirt at your favorite junkyard. it's just a piece of cast aluminum with a bypass spring in it and nothing that can really wear out, so getting a new one is a waste of money.

Oh, you mean that little piece of aluminum with the center threaded thingy that's held on with two 7/16" headed bolts?

No headers for me, those things are more trouble than they're worth.

Oh, you mean that little piece of aluminum with the center threaded thingy that's held on with two 7/16" headed bolts?

No headers for me, those things are more trouble than they're worth.
yup, that's the oil filter adapter. it has the bypass built into it- but some people just remove the spring and tap it for a pipe plug.

The Gen 6 is a different setup. It's cooler lines screw directly to the block rather than thru the adapter sandwiched between the block and filter.
I've tossed several of the adapters with leaking lines on my own rebuilds that I know will never tow or work that hard, those engines run the same temp now as with the adapter. I know it'll be a different story with an engine that works harder, so it'll stay on my tow rig build. I do plan to have fittings welded in place and go with braided lines and an external oil cooler on that one.

Byu the way, there's a cardboard gasket between the block and the cooler adapter, make sure you get it all cleaned out or the screw-on bypass adapter won't seat correctly.