Finished up my brakes on the 67. Went with In Line Tube kit that had all the brake lines & hoses, prop valve, master cylinder, and rear drum kits. Replaced the front with 70 Monte Carlo discs-calipers.

This kit uses the prop valve that was for 72 and later disc/drum GM cars. Supposedly no additional valves needed (hold-off etc)

Drove the car Sunday. Noticed it seemed like it was in a "bind".

Jacked it up and found that the front wheels seem to have a drag on them like pressure is being applied.

I thought that maybe the booster that I use may have the cylinder partially applied all the time.

Is the activation rod adjustable? How bout the rod at the brake pedal?

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,

jim

Try loosening the master cylinder to see if your drag goes away. If not you probably have a bad caliper

Your calipers, you mentioned, are from a '70 Monte. Did you rebuild them or have them rebuilt? I assume the slider bolts were not reused, correct? Were the moving parts lubricated with the recommended lubricant? (I prefer Permatex extreme duty brake caliper llube...green tube)
How about the rotors? Are they new or were they reused and if reused were they turned?
You seem to be describing less of a true "binding" condition and more of a rubbing which would lead me to first look at whether the mechanical components have the necessary clearances and travel.

Your calipers, you mentioned, are from a '70 Monte. Did you rebuild them or have them rebuilt? I assume the slider bolts were not reused, correct? Were the moving parts lubricated with the recommended lubricant? (I prefer Permatex extreme duty brake caliper llube...green tube)
How about the rotors? Are they new or were they reused and if reused were they turned?
You seem to be describing less of a true "binding" condition and more of a rubbing which would lead me to first look at whether the mechanical components have the necessary clearances and travel.
The calipers are remans from NAPA...new and lubed hardware. The rotors are new Napa.
I noticed that the car wouldn't coast down my slopped driveway.

I've jacked it up and can turn the front tires by hand although the R/F didn't roll as freely as the L/F.

Rear turn as they should.

It almost seems that the brakes are holding pressure while running, or perhaps when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Is there supposed to be a return spring on the brake pedal under the dash?

Can the brake pedal rod and/or booster rod be adjusted?

jim

The calipers are remans from NAPA...new and lubed hardware. The rotors are new Napa.
I noticed that the car wouldn't coast down my slopped driveway.

I've jacked it up and can turn the front tires by hand although the R/F didn't roll as freely as the L/F.

Rear turn as they should.

It almost seems that the brakes are holding pressure while running, or perhaps when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Is there supposed to be a return spring on the brake pedal under the dash?

Can the brake pedal rod and/or booster rod be adjusted?

jim
it sure sounds like the rfront is dragging, i would get it warranted and swap out:thumbsup:

it sure sounds like the rfront is dragging, i would get it warranted and swap out:thumbsup:

X2

Assuming everything is bled out correctly (including the master being fully bench bled), get rid of that caliper in favor of another. No return spring under the dash for the pedal.

Thanks everybody.

I think I found the problem based on Bob Tiley's reccomendation....loosened the master cylinder and the wheels turn freely. The rod that runs from the brake pedal to the booster is threaded and is adjusted out as long as it can go. I'm hoping that it is the issue perhaps pushing the booster-master cylinder enough to partially apply the front brakes.

If adjusting that doesn't solve it I'll shorten the plunger rod that fits inside the master cylinder just enough to eliminate any possible brake engagement.

jim