Am thinking about getting a set of the lakewood lower arms (aka lift bars), the ones that change the suspension geometry for better launches and reduced wheel hop (that is what they say anyway). I currently have adjustable uppers, stock boxed lowers with poly bushings and QA1 adj shocks. Have these helped anyone with wheel hop or reduce their 60' times? THnaks!

Here is a link: http://www.jcwhitney.com/LAKEWOOD-BOLT-ON-LIFT-BARS-LOWER-CONTROL-ARMS/GP_2011712_N_111+10201+600003505_10101.jcw

Simply put...They work ! ! I have had mine on for years and got them from South Side Machine when they made them. Stopped the wheel hop.

FYI,they are about $100 or so cheaper at Summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D21312&N=700+4294908216+115&autoview=sku

They work well in the 60 ft. department and eliminate wheelhop.

FYI,they are about $100 or so cheaper at Summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK%2D21312&N=700+4294908216+115&autoview=sku

They work well in the 60 ft. department and eliminate wheelhop.


Sweet! Thanks guys. The wheel hop has been driving me crazy. Did pinion angle, adj shocks and finally put slicks on it that eliminated the spin which cured the hop - until I try to heat the slicks.

are adjustable uppers not enough to get rid of wheel hop? Is it worth the $$ to get adjustable uppers and lift bars? Working on selecting a suspention setup for my '70 basket case build up.

Hello,

Please keep us in mind when making your suspension selection. We offer both bolt in and weld in lift bars for the A-Body. We also offer just the lift bar brackets in both weld in or bolt in models that can be used with your current control arms.

Our lift bars are supplied with grease-able Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and durable Red or Black powder coat. The Lakewood lift bars feature solid bushings which will decrease your ride quality and cause major binding issues. Our lift bars also feature reinforced sway bar holes drilled at the correct angle to allow you to lower the control arms but still keep the sway bar level with the rear end.

I posted a few links below, if you have any questions please give us a call and we will be happy to go into more detail regarding our set-up.

Relocation Brackets-
Weld in- www.umiperformance.com/4010
Bolt in- www.umiperformance.com/4012

Lift Bar kits-
Weld in- www.umiperformance.com/4020
Bolt in- www.umiperformance.com/4022

Thank you!
Ryan

Put them on my 69 about 3 months ago. I had severe wheelhop and now its gone. They DO NOT make my car ride hard and the suspension does not bind. My Chevelle rides and handles better than ever....Dale

Am thinking about getting a set of the lakewood lower arms (aka lift bars), the ones that change the suspension geometry for better launches and reduced wheel hop (that is what they say anyway). I currently have adjustable uppers, stock boxed lowers with poly bushings and QA1 adj shocks. Have these helped anyone with wheel hop or reduce their 60' times? THnaks!

Here is a link: http://www.jcwhitney.com/LAKEWOOD-BOLT-ON-LIFT-BARS-LOWER-CONTROL-ARMS/GP_2011712_N_111+10201+600003505_10101.jcw

Did you end up buying those lift bars? I just saw a set on CL for $150 OBO used. Let me know how yours worked out.

Thanks,
Mike

Did you end up buying those lift bars? I just saw a set on CL for $150 OBO used. Let me know how yours worked out.

Thanks,
Mike

Mike,
Yes I did buy them. However, I decided to build a rear end at the same time and I am looking for a 12 bolt housing for a 68 - 72 now. So, the car is down and not sure when I will get it going. The arms/hardware look really good though.


Jayme

YEARS AGO I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM W/MY 70SS 402 4SPD ELKY.
I CHANGED THE FACTORY 14" RIMS FOR A SET OF 15" CENTERLINES
THAT WERE 10" WIDE ON THE REAR. I GOT ON IT HARD AND I THOUGHT
THE DAMN DRIVE SHAFT WAS GOING TO GO THROUGH THE FLOOR ! :eek:
WHEEL HOP WAS UNBELIEVABLE. I BOUGHT A SET OF BRACKETS FROM
SUPER SHOPS THAT BOLTED TO THE CENTER SECTION OF THE REAR
END. IT RAISED THE ANGLE OF THE TOP BARS AT THE REAR END- NO
WHEEL HOP EVER AGAIN. SIMPLE TO INSTALL- NO ONE CAN SEE THEM.
I'M SURE THEY ARE STILL AVAILABLE.

Mike,
Yes I did buy them. However, I decided to build a rear end at the same time and I am looking for a 12 bolt housing for a 68 - 72 now. So, the car is down and not sure when I will get it going. The arms/hardware look really good though.


Jayme

Jayme , Check with Size Matters , he may have a 12 bolt housing for sale .
Gene

Yes they work, I have used them for 7 years or so now. BUT, like the UMI rep said, they use solid bushings which didn't affect my ride much, but the bars bind sooner than a poly or rubber bushing will. The binding is inherent in our 4-link rear setups because of the non-parallel design of both the upper and lower control arms.

Hello,

Please keep us in mind when making your suspension selection. We offer both bolt in and weld in lift bars for the A-Body. We also offer just the lift bar brackets in both weld in or bolt in models that can be used with your current control arms.

Our lift bars are supplied with grease-able Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings and durable Red or Black powder coat. The Lakewood lift bars feature solid bushings which will decrease your ride quality and cause major binding issues. Our lift bars also feature reinforced sway bar holes drilled at the correct angle to allow you to lower the control arms but still keep the sway bar level with the rear end.

I posted a few links below, if you have any questions please give us a call and we will be happy to go into more detail regarding our set-up.

Relocation Brackets-
Weld in- www.umiperformance.com/4010
Bolt in- www.umiperformance.com/4012

Lift Bar kits-
Weld in- www.umiperformance.com/4020
Bolt in- www.umiperformance.com/4022

Thank you!
Ryan

Ryan,

I wish the sway bar didn't hang down so far with your "Relocation Brackets". Are there any plans to re-engineer this?