Bought an angled connector and some 300A 40mm2 cable. My question is if it's good to solder this in or does it get too hot? Connector is too solid to crimp I think and even if I could I'm afraid it'll crack.

I've soldered it at the moment but not fitted it. The connector had about a 1/3 solder in it and the cable fill out the hole pretty good but the solder didn't spill over when I dumped the cable in. How do I know if it's got enough solder in there?

Also, the angled connector has an 8mm hole for the terminal which is the only size they had. will that even fit the starter solenoid terminal?

Thanks

You'll get as many opinions as there are answers on this one: yes, no and both.

My opinion is that you need a good mechanical connection before you solder, so first crimp, then solder.

That said, buying a crimping tool that will rarely be used may be expensive.

I usually strip the cable insulation to the right length, put some heatshring on, put the connector is a vise, heat it up with a torch, fill it with solder and stick the cable in while still liquid, wait till solid, clean up any spills with a wire wheel, slide the heatshring over, shrink and done.

My opinion is that you need a good mechanical connection before you solder, so first crimp, then solder.


The cable end is closed to there's no-way I can crimp, then solder. This is the connector:

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/image_uploads/071101_med.jpg

Also, as stated above, it's solid all the way around and *really* thick, probably about 2mm, so crimping it will take significant force and might crack it.

I usually strip the cable insulation to the right length, put some heatshring on, put the connector is a vise, heat it up with a torch, fill it with solder and stick the cable in while still liquid, wait till solid, clean up any spills with a wire wheel, slide the heatshring over, shrink and done.

This is what I did. Only there was no spillage which is why I don't know if I put in enough solder. Now it's stuck so tight I can't get it off even with heating it till the insulation starts melting.

My main concern is that when trying to start the car the solder, if insufficient, will get hot, melt, cable will fall out and short on the chassis...

Thanks

P.S. Just found this tool on the site I got the connector from but it's £45... Think I'll stick with soldering for now!

If you can't pull it out after heating it up- then chances are it's in there good enough to stay... At least for a while.

You can take something blunt (like an extremely dull chisel) and form a couple "crimp" lines across your angled connector. That may add some mechanical bite. If you're worried about the depth of your solder- drill a hole towards the closed end of the connector to see if it's filled down there.

Nooj

You should never crimp a solder connector or solder a crimp connector. They are two different types of connectors.

http://www.connex-electronics.com/?url=/html/products/anderson/powerpole/pp_crimp_guide.html
http://www.ch601.org/resources/crimpsolder.htm

You should never crimp a solder connector or solder a crimp connector. They are two different types of connectors.

http://www.connex-electronics.com/?url=/html/products/anderson/powerpole/pp_crimp_guide.html
http://www.ch601.org/resources/crimpsolder.htm

Well, since the site sells a crimping tool for it, does that mean I've done it wrong?

A solder connector should not have an 'inspection' hole as the molten solder will run out the hole. Here's a pictorial of a soldering technique.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/blog/soldering-battery-cable-terminal-ends/112174

A solder connector should not have an 'inspection' hole as the molten solder will run out the hole. Here's a pictorial of a soldering technique.



That 'inspection' hole annoyed me somewhat and I had to find a way to plug it to hold the solder. That means it's a crimping connector then...

You should never crimp a solder connector or solder a crimp connector. They are two different types of connectors.

It's perfectly OK and desirable to solder a crimp connector AFTER it's been properly crimped. The solder will prevent future corrosion and failure of a crimped-only connection. Just be sure the wire is shiny clean and coated with plumber's paste-type flux before the crimp is made. Many solder connections fail because the wire wasn't cleaned and coated with flux before soldering. The secret to successful soldering is to insert the wire into the connector cup before applying heat from the torch. The wire must be as hot as the connector before solder is applied. To minimize insulation melt, turn the connector up with the wire extending downward. Apply heat from the torch to the terminal barrel until the flux boils off, THEN feed the solder into the joint. The solder will "wick" up the wire into the terminal cup, continue heat and feeding solder into the joint until it fills up. If you don't have a crimping tool. take the assembly to a local electrical fab shop. You can usually sweet-talk someone into making a crimp for you for nothing more than a thank you.

It's perfectly OK and desirable to solder a crimp connector AFTER it's been properly crimped. The solder will prevent future corrosion and failure of a crimped-only connection. Just be sure the wire is shiny clean and coated with plumber's paste-type flux before the crimp is made. Many solder connections fail because the wire wasn't cleaned and coated with flux before soldering. The secret to successful soldering is to insert the wire into the connector cup before applying heat from the torch. The wire must be as hot as the connector before solder is applied. To minimize insulation melt, turn the connector up with the wire extending downward. Apply heat from the torch to the terminal barrel until the flux boils off, THEN feed the solder into the joint. The solder will "wick" up the wire into the terminal cup, continue heat and feeding solder into the joint until it fills up. If you don't have a crimping tool. take the assembly to a local electrical fab shop. You can usually sweet-talk someone into making a crimp for you for nothing more than a thank you.

There is no reason whatsoever to solder a properly crimped connection. A properly crimped connection will have no space between the conductors for the solder to wick into. The solder basically creates a rigid collar at the end of the connector and makes the wire prone to cracking. I've made hundreds of crimp connections on commercial sailing vessels, perhaps the most corrosive environment in the world, and have never soldered one of them. The money spent on a USCG or ABS approved crimping tool is well worth it.

Using acid type flux (as in the type plumbers use) is never recommended for electrical connections.
Its also a bad idea to fill the connector with solder and then jam the cable in. This will lead to a cold solder joint, which will be bad.

You cannot solder this after crimping as it's completely closed. Also, it's not possible to solder without dumping the cable into the melted solder.

I'll ask my local MOT place to crimp it on, they must have a tool for this.

I've made hundreds of crimp connections on commercial sailing vessels, perhaps the most corrosive environment in the world, and have never soldered one of them.

Mike, I respectfully disagree. I make industrial electrical connections in the mining industry for a living. I'm not familiar with sailing vessels, but I've been working on cars for 40 years, and I am familiar with corrosion formed in 12 volt battery systems and oil & grease intrusion into electrical connectors. Even a wire with a properly crimped connector has tiny voids that WILL allow solder to wick into to make a better electrical connection. Wire cracking isn't an issue unless the wire was nicked during insulation removal. I'm not saying soldering a crimped connector is necessary, I'm saying it makes a better connection for a longer period of time. Just my .02