So the 400 SB sounds like the most likely candidate for my winter project. How are the Pro Topline heads? Or do I go budget and use the Vortec heads and an RPM Airgap intake. I would plan on that intake across the board. It will go in my 66 Wagon. I'll run an electric vacuum pump I think and a solid roller cam from UD/Lunati. I'm thinking about running a 200R4 with a 3000 stall lock up and 3.55 gears as long as I don't explode the 10 bolt behind my BB between now and then. I had bad experiences with my 700s but that was behind a BB.

I'm looking for 400 HP and 400++ torque. I'm going to use probably a double pumper Holley or Demon. I like the HP that Super Chevy and Car Craft have gotten out of the Vortec's on 350's. How well would they be with the 50 extra cubes of a 400? Do I shoot for 200 heads and nothing bigger? I'm using the stock pulleys and brackets from my 283 wagon. I still need AC, PS, and PB.

What do you think?

If you are commited to going solid roller you should be able to break the 500HP mark pretty easy with the right combo.

I would look at a 210-220cc head for your 406, unless you want a mild combo . . . if that is the case you have no reason to go solid roller anyway.

ProTopline heads are very nice for the price IMO.

PS. Just noticed you want power brakes, etc so I assume you want a mild combo. I'd still look at heads in the 200-210cc range and maybe a HYDRAULIC roller to go with it. Something with about 235* duration @ .050 on the intake side. Stay away from the smaller Vortec heads or your engine will be flow limited.

For that big car don`t go over 200cc.
If you want a great flowing head for the $$ get a set of Canfield 195`s.
Herberts has them, they call them 197`s like Jegs does (same head)

CNC`d combustion chamber, assembled ready to go...$1075 delivered!!

If you don`t mind a few $ more then the AFR 195 will work.
BTW we had Dart Pro 1 200cc heads on our 406 that ran pretty good with a heavy car like yours.

The Darts are fine but we want to go quicker so we just ordered a set of AFR 195`s, should be here Tuesday or so.

Stay on the small side, and seriously reconsider that solid roller idea.

How about just using a Mechanical Solid Cam it can put you close to 500hp and save you about 600 bucks. At one time I was considering a roller but MANY said it did not justify the cost. So I call and talk to UDHarold and decieded on his UD/Lunati 280/284F10. DD2000 tell me 503tq @4000 and 461hp @5500 and thats using small exhaust (1 5/8) thru muffler. Now DD2000 is optomistic, but it also do not take advantage of the solid cam, so there still may be more power in this combo that will not be know without a true DYNO pull. Also, buy AFR heads they are the best you can buy. I would pay the extra $250.00 the first time around and have these excellent heads then having to change later when you are looking for that little edge. I can post my complete build sheet and cost on what I have done if you would like to see it.
Here is the Cam info:

LUNATI FLAT TAPPET CAMSHAFT

Manufacture LUNATI
Part Number 280/284
Grind Number 280/284F10
Type Mechanical Solid
Advertised Duration @.050 Intake 247
Advertised Duration @.050 Exhaust 251
Advertised Valve Lift Intake 0.530
Actual Valve Lift Intake 0.560 w/1.6:1 Rockers
Advertised Valve Lift Exhaust 0.535
Actual Valve Lift Exhaust 0.565 w/1.6:1 Rockers
Installed Intake Centerline Angle 106 Degrees
Lobe Separation Angle 110 Degrees
Cam Advance 4-7 Degrees

Harold like this small split duration because of the excellent exhaust port that AFR has. If I would have had heads will less flowing capability he would have given me a 280/288. just thought I would let you know why such a small duration split.

I think the 200cc heads will be perfect for that combo. Your heads are the key to your HP when properly matched to your powerband. I would have gone with canfiends or AFRs myself, but money is a major issue. The dart iron eagles can easily make 400HP/TQ though, that's not a concern at all.

I'll be switching my cam to a UD cam as well. I figure I can gain a lot more ponies and have a nicer sounding/performing ride (as I've been told from testimonials). You can also easily make 400HP/TQ with a flat tappet cam as well. My combo below should make 400HP and well over 400TQ with the 282S cam (I'm almost positive those figures will improve when I go with a UD cam). Make sure you order it on a small base circle though, it could save you some headaches.

You can go roller and make 500 no problem and still retain your low end torque pretty well, but they aren't inexpensive. Plus, some question the reliability of roller cams on a daily driven car (I wouldn't know because I can't nearly afford a roller cam). I'm assuming this will be for the street as well considering you are maxing out at a 3000 stall.

If you need to save money, I'd get some decent heads (like mine), and a flat tappet, solid cam (maybe a little bigger than the 282S) and I think you'll be moret han satisfied. Plus, 400/400 on the street is nothing to complain about.

You MIGHT want some 3.73s in the rear... the 2004R has a pretty good 1st gear so the 3.55s would be fine... but it also has OD so you can take advantage of even more torque multiplication. Hell, why not 4.11s? And your rear should hold up fine as long as your using street tires.

Whatever path you chose, I'm sure you'll love the 400. I love the 383 I built for my buddy, so I know I'll love mine when it's done. graemlins/hurray.gif :D graemlins/beers.gif

. whoops... double post

On my 489 my biggest regret is not a solid roller cam. It sounds and runs great with the Comp 280H but I kinda liked the 274XE that was in it before. Comp said the 280 would bleed off some cyl pressure and ease pump gas use. I went with bleed down/ variable duration lifters now has a ton of vacuum. I would have gone to an electric pump to ease some of all of the draw backs.

The 400 sounds the way to go. I thought the solid rollers were much easier to live with than flat solids? I plan to put it together once I hope. Like that ever happens. I was wondering about the small base circle cam. I thought about an Eagle rotating assembly. I would run about 10:1. what kind of dish or piston do I use to get this with 64CC heads? Or just go larger CC?

Well, I'm assembling a 407 with SCAT 4340 crank, 5.7 H-beam rods, SRP flat tops with AFR 210 heads I ordered from AFR direct. I'm starting out with a normal 282S flat tappet cam from CC. I figure small cam and good heads ought to get me 450 flywheel HP.

Not sure about a small base circle camshaft-have yet to install it, but the rest of the short block is complete-can't wait.

Also the CR works out to 10.2 to one with a near zero decked block and Fel Pro...about what I hoped for.

The Vortecs would be a good low budget choice for sure!

i've got a set of 220cc aluminum Pro Toplines for sale if you are interested. i'll sell them for less money than you'll pay for the machined vortecs. $900 and they'll come with K-900 K-Motion springs and titanium retainers, 7/16" or 3/8" studs, and guideplates. or i'll sell them for $800 with a flat tappet set up for .550 lift, with either studs you want and the guideplates. they are 72cc combustion chambers, already have steam holes drilled for 400 blocks. interested? i need to sell them asap, i'm trying to buy a dirtbike for my son for Christmas. ;)

How much power will the stock crank take? 425 safely?

A stock crank will be plenty strong for your engine.