last week, i took the sheetmetal off the front, and the radiator...

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1081744111-003585.jpg

Over the weekend:

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1081743194-003584.jpg

my apologies for the messy garage, i've been thrashing to to get this apart, because the fun doesnt start until after the old parts are out :D

Makes me want to do another car again..real bad.

I'm having a good ole' time :D ....though my fingers will tell a different story.

now the real fun starts, which is, new parts and painting the underneith.

Now I'm amazed again on how clean that car is with the nose off..now all the fun stuff begins :cool:

Looks good Brian. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Any particular reason you pulled the subframe? I thought you'd be itchin to get your new motor in . . .

thanks chris!
Part of that is becuase it used to be a factory Air car, i pulled the fender in the fall to remove all factory air equipment, weld up the fire wall and cut the hole for factory heat.

All in effort to make working on the car easier.

Eric,
thanks!
Pulled the sub becuase i have another one that i cleaned up and painted, its ready to go.

the underneith of the car, amazingly, needed nothing more then prep solve to get the grease off, all the factory underbody paint is still there, and rust free for the most part. I have a few areas that need cleaning up, and i will respray the underneith of the car.

i am itching to get this motor/trans in, but i want the car to be very clean, and easy to work on without getting overly dirty when the car is finished.

Nice graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Must be nice to have a spare subframe. The one you pulled out looks pretty good already . . . no rust damage at the body mounts (that I can see) which is rare for northern cars IMO.

Ah yes.. The good old days. I can hear my dad now... " WHEN YOU GONNA GET THAT THING OUTTA MY GARAGE"
and " LEAVE IT STOCK.... THE FACTORY SPENT LOTS OF MONEY TO MAKE IT THAT WAY" :D :D :D

Eric,
it is nice to have a spare, but that actually revolves around another project.

this one i pulled out does have two mount holes that are rusted, and my thoughts on that, since the rest of the car is rust free, i think its becuase the factory used rubber mounts, and they trap the moisture.

The mounts i've been using are aluminum, so far i like them the best, they look better then poly.

lol Tony, some days are like that, but my dad likes this whole deal. This is like a hotrod project for him, that he doesnt have to pay for, or work on :D

Good luck Brian.This is going to be fun to watch graemlins/thumbsup.gif

MY VELLE (http://www.prestage.com/Member+Pages/1201.aspx)

Looks good Brian!!

:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:

way to go Brian, really happy for you. graemlins/thumbsup.gif like ive said before, wish my car was that clean. dont get in a hurry, check every thing twice, and once youre done, go back over it and make sure everything is tight. Good luck Dave

I'll have to get down to Etown one of these days to cya run :cool:

Keep up the good work graemlins/thumbsup.gif

thanks guys!

I was trying to figure out what was going on until I noticed it was a Camaro... graemlins/clonk.gif

Looking good graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Hey B,

I have to ask...

What did you pay for that clean 6 car?
Where did you find it?

Hope it all goes well graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Brian, I'm excited for ya! What are the specs for the 383(?)

Also, what is the E.T. goal for the first clean pass? What E.T. are you ultimately shooting for?

Lookin great!!! :cool: graemlins/thumbsup.gif

thrasher, $4600, it looked very close to how it does now, i have much more into the engine and drivetrain.

specs on the motor/drivetrain:

Brian’s Stroker "Street" Small Block

350 +.040" 4 bolt block 3.75” Stroke crank= 385ci
-SRP Forged Pistons #138094 with Plasma Moly file fit rings
-9.8:1 CR
-350 block “0” deck
-Clevite 77 bearings
-Fel-Pro Gaskets
-Eagle Cask Crank 3.75" Stroke External balance
-Crower Sportsman 6” cap screw Rods ARP main studs
-Milodon louvered Windage tray
-GM Stock oil pan and pickup
-Melling Standard oil pump
-Cloyes true Roller timing set
-World Products Sportsman II 200cc intake port heads 72cc combustion chambers fitted with Race Flo 2.02/1.60 competition valve job, back-cut valves, bowl blend
-Performer RPM intake manifold
-Holley 3310 750cfm Vacuum Sec. Carb choke plate removed
-4 hole spacer 1” tall
-Holley carb Heat Sheild
-Crower Cams #00321 (Ground on a 108LSA) Solid Flat tappet 242/248 Dur .050” .482/.504" valve lift Crane double Valve Springs #99893-16
-Rocker Arms- Crower Stainless Steel 1.5
-Comp One Piece .080” wall 5/16” Pushrods
-MSD Ready-to-run Pro Billet Blaster II chrome coil
-Headers- 1-5/8” primary 3” collector, 34” primary length, scavenger style collector
-3” pipe Dynomax Oval UltraFlo mufflers
-Carter 172gph mechanical pump plumbed to 3/8" fuel line.
-Mobil 1 10W-30 oil, Ford F-type transmission fluid Mobil 1 Gear oil
-TH-350, ATI 10” Treemaster Converter, 4.10 gears Cheetah shifter
-Denny’s HD Aluminum Driveshaft 1350 U-joints and yokes
-Summit Steel OEM style damper

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1082088717-003600.jpg

:cool: graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Brian,

Lookin' good! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

thanks guys!
I'll keep posting the big updates under this topic as i move along.

You just got me more motivated to do the same with my '69..Looking Good graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Put the A/C back ! ,, I hate to see a factory A/C removed out of a nice car :(

Brian, thats a very well thought out combo. I like it. The only things I would have done different is maybe a tight 8" converter and a mechanical secondary carb. Of course, if this is your daily driver then you've made the right choice there as well. Thumbs up.

thanks tom,

Ammo, sorry man, for me, its more important to get to the plugs and headers. I did the change-over in the most factory stock way possible. If i didnt mention that it was a factory A/C car, no one would ever know :D

John, thanks for the compliments.
I agree, if the car ever becomes a trailored ride, or just to and from the track those will be the first components changed.

No insult intended but I really don't see the need for a VS carb with the rest of the combo,even if it is a street driven car.

383ci,10inch converter,244/248 .050 duration 108 LSA, and 4.10's?

Come on dude, that VS carb isn't going to make it into a street mizer as far as gas goes.
Just learn to keep your foot out of a DP or disconnect the secondary linkage.

Oh and Welcome to the 11's smile.gif

thasher, no offense taken, also keep in mind that many of the parts were bought over a somewhat long period of time, where i was picking up knowledge at a quick pace while buying parts.

Had i selected a new carb today it would be not only a DP but also an HP series carb, thats alright though, it will make for an interesting back to back test later in the season, or next season.

http://hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1082258384-003609.jpg

That sure is a sanitary looking engine bay, what paint did you use on the firewall, wheelhouses and frame? Bob

krylon semi-gloss black. One of my camaro restoration friends pointed it out as being very closs to the original GM paint.

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1082869341-003610.jpg

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1082869760-003612.jpg

Brian,as always..looking good graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Keep up the good work :cool:

Brian, Sweeeeeeeeeeet graemlins/thumbsup.gif

MY VELLE (http://www.prestage.com/Member+Pages/1201.aspx)

thanks guys!