Well let me give you the quick run down on my motor. It's a 388ci, 9.5:1 C/R, .488" lift cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, Holley 3310 750VS, Bowtie heads ported and polished, Hedmen 1 3/4" headers, 2 1/2" exhaust with x-pipe flowing thru a pair of Spin Tech mufflers, TH350 tranny with B&M shift kit, tranny cooler, & Holeshot 2000, and 4.11s out back. I just installed a Holley 130gph fuel pump and regulator I bought off Ebay, but I haven't hooked up the regulator yet. Well, I drove it up and down the street after I installed it about 2 weeks ago and it felt good. The car sat for about a week until yesterday when I needed it. I was driving around and it felt extremely sluggish. I'm not sure if maybe the wether had anything to do with it...it wasn't hot or anything, but it did feel pretty humid. Only other thing I can think of is MAYBE when I last adjusted my valves, I left them a little too tight. What do you guys think? Maybe a bad batch of gas? I know it's not accurate to tell if a car isn't performing from "the seat of the pants," but she sure did feel like she had more torque and a harder take off. Now it kinda bogs, like it usually did, then it'd just take off pretty smoothly, then after about 35-40mph then I'd feel it kick in. One thing I did notice before I installed the fuel pump is that for whatever reason my 2nd gear stopped kicking in and chirping as hard as it used to. Even on the freeway when I'd floor it and the passing gear would kick in, it'd still chirp. Not sure if that has anything to do with my current problem, or if its just coincedence. Well, thanks a lot everyone, and I look forward to your knowledge and input graemlins/beers.gif graemlins/thumbsup.gif

A quick compression test will tell you if the valves are too tight. Just make sure to do it when the motor is warmed up. Also double check timing.

Steve

Originally posted by wanarace:
A quick compression test will tell you if the valves are too tight. Just make sure to do it when the motor is warmed up. Also double check timing.

Steve Yeah, I had advanced my static timing to 15*...I think I usually have it between 12*-14*. I was kinda experimenting with 15*...I did retard it a little, but I didn't use my gun to do it. Any other suggestions? Thanks a lot! graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/beers.gif

Well I took it out for a quick driver a lil while ago and it still felt sluggish in roughly 60*F temps. I retarded the timing to, I'm guessing, 8*-10* and it felt even worse. I then advanced it to roughly 12*-14* and it felt better. Reason I'm guessing is because I loaned my gun to my buddy who's waaaay out in Corona. By any chance, would the fan shroud hanging and hitting the fan take away any hp??? I accidently re-broke one of the bolt holes and its hanging again. Just wondering if that may play a role in my problem, aside from my motor running a little warmer then usual. Please give me any and all suggestions...they are all very welcomed and appreciated graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Here's a couple of Q's for ya....

Are you using a gas tank or fuel cell ? If Tank, is it recent? Have you changed the "sock" on the pickup ? If cell, are you filtering before the pump or after ?

Your plumbing: Are you using a hard line or flex lines for fuel? Is it possible that you kinked the lines or introduced dirt when installing the pump ? Are the lines big enough to handle the volume from your source to pump and then pump to carb ? Where is your filter ? I advocate pre-filtering before the pump (why pull dirt through the pump). Did you replace the filter ?

Regulator: It's pretty important to install, too much pressure at the carb can cause all kinds of grief and you don't need that. BTW, I have had too many problems with the 3310's and their casting's. One cost me close to $600 and 3 day's of major stress to find out that two of the air passages were blocked with casting flash... Check the brass "screen" in the carb to ensure it's clear.

Transmission: Were you having issues before you made changes to your fuel system? Generally, the fuel system doesn't cause issues with the transmission. The motor, vaccum, converter etc... affect the trans. If the motor is not running right, other things are affected. If the trans was having issues prior to your change then there is other problems involved. How "fresh" is the tranny? is the fluid good, clean and smell like it should ? You'll have to deal with the trans. after you complete the fuel sys change over.

Fan Shroud: It shouldn't affect the "lag etc..." BUT it will affect your water pump if you leave it, those bearings are not meant to handle hard vibes. The fan blade should be checked to see it's not bent,twisted, cracked etc... Ever see one go through a hood ? it ain't pretty!

Hope it helps

How did it run before you changed the pump? Is the pump you bought off of ebay new? How much fuel pressure does it have?

Originally posted by Canuck64ss:
Are you using a gas tank or fuel cell ? If Tank, is it recent? Have you changed the "sock" on the pickup ? If cell, are you filtering before the pump or after ?Its the stock tank. I haven't messed with it yet.

Your plumbing: Are you using a hard line or flex lines for fuel? It has all the stock hard line on up to the fuel pump. I have a steel braid line from the end of the hard line to the fuel pump then I had to buy some rubber fuel line to compensate for the new pump, then back to steel braid on up to the "metal" single to dual feed line.

Is it possible that you kinked the lines or introduced dirt when installing the pump ? Well the "metal" single to dual feed line has a small kink/twist on the first/short line that bolts into the carb. Other then that everything looks good.

Are the lines big enough to handle the volume from your source to pump and then pump to carb ?Right now its using the stock size fuel lines, which I believe are 5/16". I've also been told that I'd benefit more from 1/2" line all the way up. I'm thinking of going with 3/8" from the tank on up because it seems and looks like it'll be an easier conversion.

Where is your filter ? I advocate pre-filtering before the pump (why pull dirt through the pump). Did you replace the filter ?[QUOTE]
I mounted the filter after the fuel pump. I don't have any room to mount it before the pump. I mean, I could mount it before the pump, only problem is that I'll have a bunch line and slack hanging around...the stock hard line is only about 2" away from the pump, and I'd have to have an exaggerated amount of slack between the hard line and the fuel pump just to mount the filter, and I believe it'd be too dangerous to have all that extra slack. Prior to the fuel pump installation, I never ran a fuel filter.

[Quote] Check the brass "screen" in the carb to ensure it's clear.I don't know much about carbs, but I am reading up on them. I bought a couple carb rebuilding books. Where exactly is that brass "screen?"

Transmission: Were you having issues before you made changes to your fuel system?
If I remember right, lol, I believe the car was running slightly sluggish prior to the bigger fuel pump. And I do know that, if it helps any, my 2nd gear wasn't chirping like it used to. Actually, I noticed it stopped chirping in 2nd after I had the rear end rebuilt for the 2nd time, which was sometime late last year or early this year, don't remember.

[QUOTE][QB] How "fresh" is the tranny? is the fluid good, clean and smell like it should ? You'll have to deal with the trans. after you complete the fuel sys change over. I changed the tranny fluid and filter, I'd say roughly about a year and a half ago, maybe 2 years ago. It leaks, so I'm pretty much putting in new tranny fluid every couple of months....if that makes a differece tongue.gif


Originally posted by mr 4 speed:
How did it run before you changed the pump? Is the pump you bought off of ebay new? How much fuel pressure does it have? It ran ok. For whatever reasons, it hasn't really been running like I remember it. I remember when I'd play with the throttle, whether it be in drive or down in 1st, the front end would lift automatically...now it seems like I have to be rolling for the front end to lift. Then from a stop, when I floor it, the car just goes....before the front end would lift, I'd hear the tires chirp, not a whole lot...I have some wheel hop...then it'd launch and take off. Now it has, well to me, a wimpy take off. I know you can't judge it's performance on take off alone, and I plan on taking it to the track to see the differeces, if any. I bought the fuel pump used, and I don't have my fuel pressure gauge hooked up yet. I can't hook up the fuel line with the current fuel line set up I have because I've got that big ugle heater hose mounted on my intake, and it covers the part of the metal single to dual line to hook it up to.

Get your fuel system right first but I would lean to a possible converter problem. Those B&M converters are not known for taking any real abuse. If it has balooned or bent something internally it would definitely affect launch. Just an educated guess of course.

Good luck with it. Let us know what it is when you get it sorted out.

Troy.

Its the stock tank. I haven't messed with it yet.
To adapt the tank for flow, you'll probably have to modify the pickup line to 3/8" or better yet 1/2" and REPLACE the sock. To mod the pickup, I suggest that you get it done by a prof as it can be a tad tricky... If it's original or otherwise old it may need replacing if it's "soft". An alternative would be install (at a tank shop) a bottom pickup. I think Moroso makes one that would work quite nicely.


Right now its using the stock size fuel lines, which I believe are 5/16". I've also been told that I'd benefit more from 1/2" line all the way up. I'm thinking of going with 3/8" from the tank on up because it seems and looks like it'll be an easier conversion.Defenitely upgrade the line to a minimum of 3/8" but 1/2" would be best if you really need a lot of delivery which I don't think is the case here. If you think that you might be doing more to the engine then go to 1/2" and then you won't be revisiting the project.


I mounted the filter after the fuel pump. I don't have any room to mount it before the pump. I mean, I could mount it before the pump, only problem is that I'll have a bunch line and slack hanging around...the stock hard line is only about 2" away from the pump, and I'd have to have an exaggerated amount of slack between the hard line and the fuel pump just to mount the filter, and I believe it'd be too dangerous to have all that extra slack. Prior to the fuel pump installation, I never ran a fuel filter.Allways use a filter! The garbage that can wind up in your tank :( ,carb :mad: ,engine graemlins/angry.gif would amaze you! Then this junk winds up where you really don't want it! graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif If you do decide to re-plumb then pre-filter prior to the pump & try to keep the length from tank to filter to pump at a minimum


I don't know much about carbs, but I am reading up on them. I bought a couple carb rebuilding books. Where exactly is that brass "screen?" The screen is not a screen in the conventional sense, it looks like a thick brass mesh plug. It's located in the carb inside the inlet. These get a little plugged and cause BIG restrictions, they also gum up pretty well so.... Some would just remove it altogether and rely on the filter's, other's call this nut's and swear by (at) them.


If I remember right, lol, I believe the car was running slightly sluggish prior to the bigger fuel pump. And I do know that, if it helps any, my 2nd gear wasn't chirping like it used to. Actually, I noticed it stopped chirping in 2nd after I had the rear end rebuilt for the 2nd time, which was sometime late last year or early this year, don't remember.

I changed the tranny fluid and filter, I'd say roughly about a year and a half ago, maybe 2 years ago. It leaks, so I'm pretty much putting in new tranny fluid every couple of months....if that makes a difference I don't think the trans is affected by your fuel delivery at this time. It could be that the second gear is going AND/OR the converter is on it's way to retirement. 1st things 1st, let's get the gas situation fixed and then to the trans... Depending on the history of your tranny you may want to start planning a performance rebuild for the future.

The Diff was redone again... Sounds more likely the converter is ballooning with that kind of use. Fastest way to kill a converter/trans is doing brake stands ;) What gearing in the diff and where the gears changed when rebuilt? Same gear as before ?


I bought the fuel pump used, and I don't have my fuel pressure gauge hooked up yet. I can't hook up the fuel line with the current fuel line set up I have because I've got that big ugle heater hose mounted on my intake, and it covers the part of the metal single to dual line to hook it up to. You will need the regulator and the pressure guage to ensure that you aren't over feeding the carb. I personally try to stay away from used electrical parts but in our hobby... Just remember to get your old Mechanical Pump out of there and block it off.

Hope it helps.
Steve

Originally posted by Canuck64ss:
The screen is not a screen in the conventional sense, it looks like a thick brass mesh plug. It's located in the carb inside the inlet. These get a little plugged and cause BIG restrictions, they also gum up pretty well so.... Some would just remove it altogether and rely on the filter's, other's call this nut's and swear by (at) them.Would that mean that I'd have to take apart the whole carb? Or is it something were I'd only have to do "minor" surgury? I did buy a Holley rebuilding kit, but I'm waiting to sort out all the bugs with the motor before attempting to rebuild it. What do you think? Or should I just go ahead and rebuild it now, seeing as this might be my whole problem?

The Diff was redone again... Sounds more likely the converter is ballooning with that kind of use. Fastest way to kill a converter/trans is doing brake stands ;) What gearing in the diff and where the gears changed when rebuilt? Same gear as before ?Well since the rear end's last rebuild, I haven't done much hard driving. The guy who rebuilt the rear end told me to take it easy on it for a good while. He didn't say to take it easy to break it in, or exactly how long to take it easy. I think I waited at least a couple hundred to a thousand miles before I messed with it, but I didn't do anything hard. As for racing, I haven't really raced it since the rebuild. I've messed around on some empty streets to see how my motor responds to my adjustments, but that's about it.


You will need the regulator and the pressure guage to ensure that you aren't over feeding the carb. I personally try to stay away from used electrical parts but in our hobby... Just remember to get your old Mechanical Pump out of there and block it off.Yeah, I plan on installing the regulator as soon as possible. I just have to find out what size fittings it uses, then get some lines, and figure out how and where I'm going to mount my fuel pressure gauge. The fuel pump is a mechanical pump, I did want an electric pump, but from additional reading, and looking at people's set ups in here and in mags, it looked like I'd be better off with the mechanical. I'm thinking later on I'll get an electric pump when I buy an nitrous kit.

I have a screen on the inlet of my 600cfm, but it only has a single inlet, non-center hung floats.

Alex's carb has center hung floats and a dual inlet set up, is there supposed to be 2 screens then?

Alex, if there are screen in there, all you have to to is detach the inlet lines, the "1 into 2" line, at the two spots where it connects to the fuel bowls, just loosen the fastners and pull the line away. If there's screens, you'll feel them if you stick your finger in there, just pull them out. (At least that's how it work on my 600cfm Holley)

Originally posted by Slowpoke70:
I have a screen on the inlet of my 600cfm, but it only has a single inlet, non-center hung floats.

Alex's carb has center hung floats and a dual inlet set up, is there supposed to be 2 screens then?

Alex, if there are screen in there, all you have to to is detach the inlet lines, the "1 into 2" line, at the two spots where it connects to the fuel bowls, just loosen the fastners and pull the line away. If there's screens, you'll feel them if you stick your finger in there, just pull them out. (At least that's how it work on my 600cfm Holley) Ooooo, Ok. I know what you're talking about now. I replaced those two "screens," or filters, about 3-4 years ago. I forgot about that. I gotta check that out. I kinda got lost in all the rocket science talk, but you got it, and str8 to the point. Thanks graemlins/thumbsup.gif